Don't Get Khat

This always the busiest time of year. For work, we generally have projects that are finishing at the end of December. As such, there is a flurry of activity to get things done before budgets need to be closed.

There are often loads of visitors between November and December as technical advisors look to carry out their visits before year’s end. This year, because the security situation in the country has been relatively good, we were inundated with visitors from late October until now. These visits come to a screeching halt by mid-December as much of the world prepares for travel around Christmas and New Year’s.

We also have loads of reports that are due. Thankfully, I don’t have to prepare them. But I do have to read and approve many of them.

All this is on top of a flurry of personal obligations. Holiday parties. End of year school events. And we generally have the monstrous winter travel awaiting us around the middle of December. It’s stressful for everyone and, sadly, it can suck much of the enjoyment from the season.

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Unfortunately, I still have work travel between now and the end of the year. Last week I was in Somalia carrying out my routine meetings and so forth. I like being in Somalia but some of the demands on my time can get annoying. Thankfully, I like my team and it makes it easier than it would be otherwise.

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Over my years of working in Somalia, I have seen glimpses here and there of the khat trade. At the airport, you see the planes, mostly from Kenya, unloading thousands of kilos of bulging burlap sacks each day in a special depot near the terminal.

Khat is a flowering plant native to eastern and southern Africa that contains a stimulant. Young shoots – easily identifiable by their red stems – are bundled and wrapped in banana leaves, packed in bags and loaded onto pickup trucks. Drivers then zip along roads at breakneck speed in an effort to ensure that the khat is fresh when it reaches consumers. Women generally serve as vendors, while men are predominately consumers.

khat seller in Garowe during my visit in 2017

Khat is usually chewed socially, particularly in the afternoon and early evening at tea shops along the main roads. Depending on how much you chew, it can cause greater sociability, excitement, loss of appetite and mild euphoria. It is banned, or at least heavily controlled, in many countries, in others it is not only permitted, it plays a culturally significant role. In Somalia, it’s consumed by a large segment of the male population but, according to some of my staff, we have few who partake regularly (though it’s unlikely they would admit it if they did).

It can have a devastating impact on society. In addition to sapping productivity (once you begin chewing, you’re more or less done for the day), it also is a drain on the economy. Because it’s not grown in Somalia, they import it by the ton and millions of dollars leave the economy each year. In Yemen, where they are able to grow the crop, it is estimated that 40% of their fresh water is dedicated to its cultivation.  

At times in Somalia, it is hotly debated. Imports from Kenya were banned in 2020 for a couple of years, partly due to Covid and partly due to some disputes between the two countries. But most knew it wouldn’t last. For the time being, imports are in full swing and, though there are some prominent voices who condemn consumption, they seem to be outnumbered. 

Racing off to market

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While waiting for my return flight to Nairobi, I was on the phone standing at a window near the gate.  I watched the bustle of activity around a newly arrived Qatar flight. To my left, a vehicle pulling a luggage trailer exited the terminal. As it hit a bump, the load was jostled and two suitcases tumbled to the tarmac. A man near the Qatar plane waved at the driver and pointed towards the fallen bags. He slowed, turned around, shrugged his shoulders, and carried on.

I’ve never checked a bag while flying to Mogadishu. I pack lightly and make sure it fits into my carry-on each time. All the more reason to continue doing so.