Nearly 19 years in East Africa and counting...

Friday, January 25, 2019

Monitoring Visit to Galkacyo (November)


In November I had a couple more field trips. I’ll admit that it’s a challenge to do all this hosting and travel but it’s necessary for what we do. This has been a neglected country on many levels. There is a serious power struggle going on and it’s not going to end anytime soon. The people of the country need help. One way to get that help is to make sure people are aware of the need and have compelling reasons to step in and provide assistance. Pretty straight forward actually – at least conceptually.
The field trip in November took me to Galkacyo (gal-kye-oh). It’s an interesting place not far from the border with Ethiopia. It’s a divided city with opposing clans controlling the upper and lower halves of the city. Conflict flares up from time to time but generally speaking the situation has improved over the past couple of years. I wasn’t even allowed to go there in 2016 but tensions have eased and I have since been a few times.
our UN plane
This trip was to accompany one of our donors on a visit to the facilities and activities they are supporting. I was part of a similar trip with the same donor last year. I think they’re quite good and it’s always good to see a donor who is engaged, visits the work in the field and discusses the quality and efficiency of the interventions with the implementing organization. They do take a critical look at what we do and it’s not always fun to find that something needs to be improved but in the end it makes us better.
tie-dye - hadn't ever seen this before
We visited numerous activities including some targeting women. We saw a fascinating fabric dying training as well as tailoring. There was a henna activity and one of the delegation thought it would be fun to get a tattoo. I’ve visited activities like these for well over a decade in different parts of East Africa. It’s always amazing to me to hear the stories of how people’s lives have been changed, sometimes without huge amounts of capital investment. It’s always motivating to go back and keep pressure on donors to maintain this support that is making such a big difference.
super talented henna artists
On the final morning of the visit I was taking advantage of my time in the area to meet with local leaders and some other ad hoc discussions with people who wanted some of my time. At one point my security guy came in and whispered in my ear that insecurity was brewing and we needed to get the hell out of there. A moment reminiscent of George Bush on 9/11, rather than continuing the meeting I politely let the person who was speaking finish what he was saying and then told the visitors that we needed to leave rather urgently.
tailoring - practicing on plastic bags
We headed downstairs where the vehicles were idling and everyone was ready to go. There was clearly a sense of urgency and I had no idea what was going on. It’s the kind of situation where you just do as you’re told.
typical housing of the displaced in Somalia - people desperately need proper housing
Off we sped out of the compound and through the streets of Galkacyo, dust flying. As we neared the open area that they call the “green zone”, the often tense dividing line between the two halves of the city, I could see smoke rising in the distance. It was around then that I was getting the message as to what was going on. In fact it wasn’t that dangerous, at least not at that point, but it’s the kind of thing that can get ugly in a hurry. Without going into details, there were protests on the south side and there were fears that if it escalated, it could cause fighting, roadblocks and so forth. We didn’t want to take any chances.
flying to Nairobi - Mt. Kenya poking through the clouds
We made our way to the UN compound in the north and after a short stay there we loaded up again and headed to the dirt airstrip in a convoy of about seven Land Cruisers. Once there we knew we were good to go. My attention turned to some other urgent issues that were appearing on my phone, having nothing to do with the situation in Galkacyo. As our plane arrived I was still standing with the back door of the Land Cruiser open, leaning in and typing like a mad man on my laptop. I was tapping into a weak signal tethering off my phone. I watched each email slowly and painfully leave my outbox as the signal would allow. After the arriving passengers finished disembarking, it was time for us to board. Sweat was pouring off my brow as I walked with my open laptop towards the plane. Just as I arrived at the bottom of the stairs to board, the final email was sent. I boarded the plane and took my seat, sticky with sweat and dust. The journey back to Nairobi would be long – another seven hours or so with a couple of stops, but I would make it home just in time to catch my girls as they were getting into bed. A very nice way to end the day.

Monday, January 21, 2019

Visitors in October


Also in October, I was able to host another visitor from HQ in Somalia. As I’ve said previously, these visits are good for us for a number of reasons. The visibility is good for us obviously as is the increased understanding of the Somalia context by the visitors. It’s a context that is different from what people think. It’s more of about everything. It’s more developed. It’s more undeveloped (depending on where you are). It’s more beautiful. It’s harsher (depending on where you are). It’s safer than what you think but also more unsafe (depending on where you are). The people are more welcoming than you’d think, though some are quite hostile to Westerners (depending on where you are). It’s poorer and richer. Etc. Etc. Like I’ve said, this sort of thing likely applies to most countries but here is seems more acute. 
encampments of people who have been displaced by drought or conflict

With this visitor in October, we did much the same visit that I’ve taken people on numerous times. We finished at a restaurant on the beach. We had lots of security support but we were at least able to sit down to a nice/short lunch of lobster and watermelon followed by an espresso. It’s one of my favorite things to do in this country. It’s a rare treat when most of the time is spent in offices behind walled compounds.  



A week later I was back hosting another visitor. This time the focus was more security related. We have one of the best security teams in the entire organization but occasionally it’s good to have external eyes on what you’re doing. The visit went as planned and it was good to have the confirmation that we’re on top of things. Yes, we sort of knew it since we don’t have much choice but it’s good to hear it from a third party.