National Events in Mogadishu

Catching up again…

Given that I was preparing to go on leave by mid-July, I was doing my best to invest in as much time as possible in my responsibilities on the Somali side of the border. There’s always a demand on my time coming from multiple directions. I seem to never be able to devote enough time to my obligations in Somalia – meeting with staff, government, the field, donors, partner organizations, local leaders, and of course the population we serve. On the other hand, there are responsibilities on the Nairobi side. There are regional colleagues, other donors, other organizations, etc. This is not counting all the personal demands on my time, family being the most important of all.

It's an age-old dilemma. There is no way to meet all of the demands. It’s a relentless task of prioritizing each day the best that I can, accepting that people are going to be disappointed along the way.

With all of the commitment to being in Mogadishu, it’s never enough, of course. But I was able to get a lot done during June and early July, in spite of the fact that I was in West Africa part of the time.

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During my last week in Mogadishu before going on leave, I happened to hit a couple of important functions. Early in the week I received an email from our CEO, connecting me with the new UK ambassador for Somalia. I knew his predecessor quite well but hadn’t had a chance to meet him yet. After a brief exchange, he alerted me to the fact that King’s Day was two days away and they were hosting their annual event. In fact, I have been a regular attendee of the Queen’s Day event in the past, both in Nairobi and Mogadishu, but for some reason this year my name had dropped of the list. Until now.

King’s Day is the celebration of the King’s birthday. Like the other national day events that I attend, there are usually loads of important people and culinary offerings that are particular to the hosting country. As was the case last year, fish and chips where were sort of the main snack. They would need to be served without a cold beer (unlike in the UK) given that, out of respect for the Somali counterparts that would be attending, no alcohol would be present.

not sure why I think an armored vehicle with a "Learner" sticker on it is funny, but it is

Technically, alcohol is illegal in Somalia. But it doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist, like illegal things in every country. In the “green zone”, it’s not that it’s complete lawlessness but normal Somali jurisdiction doesn’t seem to apply. Though the government officially oversees the area, it’s more like an international military base distinct from the rest of Mogadishu. A lot goes on that wouldn’t be allowed outside. It’s a different world from my life on the outside.

The event unfolded as anticipated. Mingling in suits in hot, humid weather. Then speeches. Then national anthems. When it was time for God Save the King, it was hard not to laugh when we began feeling the pitter patter of rain. It was not only the Brits who found humor in the famously English phenomenon of precipitation commencing with the national song.

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After a day of meetings, the next evening’s event would bring me back into the green zone for the US national day. Though I work for a US organization, and we do receive US government funding for some of our work, I don’t have much connection with the US mission. It’s a challenge since they aren’t allowed to leave the green zone and I don’t normally spend much time inside (except this particular week).

The event was somewhat low-key, though there were a lot of stout military guys (and some women), mostly young-ish, milling about and doing some drinking. I ended up spending most of the evening up on a deck with a wonderful view of the ocean, only about a hundred feet or so away.

I never heard a national anthem, though there was a guy walking around in a bald eagle outfit. Not only did I find it funny, I found it courageous given the sweltering heat.

One other thing that was a bit funny was the “fireworks” display. In fact, fireworks obviously aren’t allowed in an environment such as this, so the substitute would be a few of the military guys firing seven or eight flares. They lasted for a few seconds and then would fade into the dark.

After munching on a burger and fries, I would make my way to my awaiting vehicle/driver and we would (exceptionally) return to my residence in the dark of night – something I’m normally not allowed to do.

The next morning, I would catch my flight to Nairobi and begin the countdown until my July-August vacation. Finally.