Thanksgiving-ish

Since my last posting on non-work life, we have ventured deep into the holiday season. I think I mentioned last year something about how businesses in Kenya have taken a page from the US and they start marketing Christmas in October/November. Thankfully, it’s not as in-your-face as it is in the US. Not yet.

* * *

celebrating Diwali with friends (added to the holiday season)

As you might guess, Thanksgiving is not a thing in East Africa. Within some expat bubbles, it is. Americans, particularly US government employees, usually find ways to celebrate, typically with other Americans. Canadians celebrate as well, though for Canada it takes place on the second Monday in October.

There are different views as to whether the holiday represents something good (taking time to give thanks for blessings) or something bad (sordid history of the treatment of native Americans). Either way, the Canadian celebration is intertwined with that of the US. We both share blessings and some sordid history. We have some Canadian friends and we were discussing it a few weeks ago.

Though there are several accounts as to where and how the holiday began, it seems certain that the origins date to a time when North America didn’t have nation states.  Thus, it’s likely that the holiday didn’t cross a border. The border crossed the territory where the holiday was already being recognized, at least in some form. Having said that, with the American Revolution in the latter part of the 1800s, it does appear that some customs that were more prevalent in what is now the US (including some that are now associated with Thanksgiving), moved north with migrating British loyalists who wanted nothing to do with the newly independent American states. Both that and the phenomenon of modern marketing make the Thanksgivings what they are today.

* * *

our half turkey

Over the nearly three decades of my life outside the US, I have celebrated about half of the Thanksgivings. It has usually depended on whether or not I have other Americans around me that are interested in celebrating it, which hasn’t always been the case. Because it is always recognized on a weekday, it has necessarily been on a workday for me. That generally sucks some of the festiveness out of it. One option has been to celebrate it the following weekend which we have done on occasion.

dinner with our friend Linda

The other challenge is to try to create a traditional dinner based on what is available wherever I have been. Given that turkey is the traditional main dish, and much of the world doesn’t have them, it can be complicated. Chicken is often the modest substitute. Nonetheless, this year we were able to obtain a half-turkey and our meal ended up being Thanksgiving-ish.

Don't Get Khat

This always the busiest time of year. For work, we generally have projects that are finishing at the end of December. As such, there is a flurry of activity to get things done before budgets need to be closed.

There are often loads of visitors between November and December as technical advisors look to carry out their visits before year’s end. This year, because the security situation in the country has been relatively good, we were inundated with visitors from late October until now. These visits come to a screeching halt by mid-December as much of the world prepares for travel around Christmas and New Year’s.

We also have loads of reports that are due. Thankfully, I don’t have to prepare them. But I do have to read and approve many of them.

All this is on top of a flurry of personal obligations. Holiday parties. End of year school events. And we generally have the monstrous winter travel awaiting us around the middle of December. It’s stressful for everyone and, sadly, it can suck much of the enjoyment from the season.

* * *

Unfortunately, I still have work travel between now and the end of the year. Last week I was in Somalia carrying out my routine meetings and so forth. I like being in Somalia but some of the demands on my time can get annoying. Thankfully, I like my team and it makes it easier than it would be otherwise.

* * *

Over my years of working in Somalia, I have seen glimpses here and there of the khat trade. At the airport, you see the planes, mostly from Kenya, unloading thousands of kilos of bulging burlap sacks each day in a special depot near the terminal.

Khat is a flowering plant native to eastern and southern Africa that contains a stimulant. Young shoots – easily identifiable by their red stems – are bundled and wrapped in banana leaves, packed in bags and loaded onto pickup trucks. Drivers then zip along roads at breakneck speed in an effort to ensure that the khat is fresh when it reaches consumers. Women generally serve as vendors, while men are predominately consumers.

khat seller in Garowe during my visit in 2017

Khat is usually chewed socially, particularly in the afternoon and early evening at tea shops along the main roads. Depending on how much you chew, it can cause greater sociability, excitement, loss of appetite and mild euphoria. It is banned, or at least heavily controlled, in many countries, in others it is not only permitted, it plays a culturally significant role. In Somalia, it’s consumed by a large segment of the male population but, according to some of my staff, we have few who partake regularly (though it’s unlikely they would admit it if they did).

It can have a devastating impact on society. In addition to sapping productivity (once you begin chewing, you’re more or less done for the day), it also is a drain on the economy. Because it’s not grown in Somalia, they import it by the ton and millions of dollars leave the economy each year. In Yemen, where they are able to grow the crop, it is estimated that 40% of their fresh water is dedicated to its cultivation.  

At times in Somalia, it is hotly debated. Imports from Kenya were banned in 2020 for a couple of years, partly due to Covid and partly due to some disputes between the two countries. But most knew it wouldn’t last. For the time being, imports are in full swing and, though there are some prominent voices who condemn consumption, they seem to be outnumbered. 

Racing off to market

* * *

While waiting for my return flight to Nairobi, I was on the phone standing at a window near the gate.  I watched the bustle of activity around a newly arrived Qatar flight. To my left, a vehicle pulling a luggage trailer exited the terminal. As it hit a bump, the load was jostled and two suitcases tumbled to the tarmac. A man near the Qatar plane waved at the driver and pointed towards the fallen bags. He slowed, turned around, shrugged his shoulders, and carried on.

I’ve never checked a bag while flying to Mogadishu. I pack lightly and make sure it fits into my carry-on each time. All the more reason to continue doing so.

Halloween and Horses

Though my days, including much of my weekends, are often consumed with work, I do like to mix it up in the blog. As I have mentioned previously, the Somalia work week is Sunday through Thursday. For NY, Kenya and much of the rest of the world, it’s Monday through Friday. As such, it’s difficult for me to have a full day off except Saturday. And even then, stuff happens on Saturdays. It’s hard to ignore critical humanitarian support demands (approvals that need to come from me that support delivery of aid) just because they fall on a Saturday. So it’s rare that I would have a full day without any work at all. Not complaining. Just the way it is.

* * *

Halloween

To go back a few weeks, we did find some time for the kids to partake in some Halloween fun. I realize that they are beginning to age out of this sort of the trick-or-treat thing, but, as when I was young, the treat part of it keeps it alive longer than you would think. It’s not like in the US where you can go door-to-door in the dark. There are many reasons that would not work in Nairobi. I’m quite sure that Americans take for granted how wonderfully safe it is there compared to most other countries. In any case, we were able to join some other families for a Halloween party, in spite of the fact that it’s not a thing in Kenya. 

* * *

Diwali

A holiday that is a thing in Kenya is Diwali, largely due to the significant number of people with Indian origin. In case you’re not familiar with it, Diwali is the Hindu festival of lights. It symbolizes the spiritual "victory of light over darkness, good over evil, and knowledge over ignorance". Given what I see around the world, I would say that evil and ignorance seem to be winning. But it was celebrated anyway.

Fireworks from the roof

One thing that accompanies Diwali is an impressive display of fireworks. When the girls were young, it was a bit frightening since it was so loud and was most active when they were trying to go to bed. Now, of course, it’s a thrill for them. The last few years we have gone up to the roof of our building to watch. It was fun scanning the city to catch the fireworks popping up from various neighborhoods.

Diwali feast

* * *

Horseback Riding

As rainy season is underway, in an El Nino year no less, you need to weave outdoor activities strategically into your week. Last weekend we took the girls horseback riding. They don’t have much experience with this sort of thing but they seemed to be keen on learning. There are a few stables around Nairobi. There is apparently a long legacy of riding that goes back to colonial times, but it has been vigorously embraced by Kenyans as well as foreigners.

Riding "western" style in Indiana back in 2019

The US does a lot of things differently from the rest of the world, including horseback riding where it is usually called “western riding”. It evolved mostly from utilitarian purposes such as hunting, working with livestock or engaging in war. Riding for sport or as a leisure activity came later and has taken shape in the modern rodeo. There are a number of things about western riding that are different from most of the rest of the world but probably the most notable is the saddle. There is generally a deeper seat and a horn on the front (traditionally used for attaching a rope tied to a lassoed calf, for example). 

English, or classical riding, also has roots in hunting (ex. fox hunts) but was adapted for less aggressive sports such as show jumping and dressage. Helmets are generally worn rather than cowboy hats, often required, as in our case.

There was a considerable amount of rain the night before so we were hoping that precipitation wouldn’t scuttle our morning ride. But the morning was mostly sunny and, with the exception of copious amounts of mud, the ride went off without a hitch. The girls loved it. Could it be a new hobby? We’ll see. 

* * *

As we head towards the holiday season, there is evidence of it in Nairobi. It's not colder temperatures. We're in the southern hemisphere so we're headed in the opposite direction. Usually, the visible manifestation has something to do with marketing. One somewhat humorous example is a billboard I saw the other day announcing a Black Friday sale. In a country without Thanksgiving. I'm quite sure most people in Nairobi don't know what Black Friday is but someone saw fit to copy the American marketing ploy anyway. 

Sitting in a coffee shop noticing a meat delivery truck. Meat? delivery.

Mogadishu

I’m back in Mogadishu. Solid week of meetings. I would say that it’s an interesting time to work in Somalia but I suppose that would apply all the time. You cannot be bored, particularly if you work outside the “green zone”. I suppose that for those who are relegated to life and work within the fortified walls, life could become repetitive.

No so for me. I arrived on Monday after my routine of a 3:50am wake up, taxi, 6:30 flight. It’s an hour and a half flight. If all went well, I would make my 9am meeting near the airport in plenty of time. There would be a hiccup, of course. After getting through immigration, I found no driver waiting for me. I was initially annoyed since there have been some issues of late with our private security and some of the logistics. But I soon found out that the situation wasn’t entirely their fault. The main gate that we use to move in and out of the “green zone” was not operational that morning causing a number of issues, one of which was funneling most of the traffic through a single entrance. With the extensive and time-consuming security checks, this was causing massive delays. This issue was compounded by an accident not far outside the usable gate. Apparently a truck collided with a police vehicle on the road leading towards the airport. An accident involving a police vehicle is not an ideal situation in any country but even more so here. It appeared that level heads prevailed, though I would not have wanted to be the driver of the truck.

Bad way to start the day

The frustrating part was that my meeting destination was less than a hundred meters from the closed gate and yet it took almost an hour to get there. It would have been far faster to walk but that’s obviously not allowed.

* * *

Over the course of the week, I would have meetings with government officials, a peer international organization, UN, a donor and several internal meetings. Topics varied from flood response, women’s protection and empowerment, human rights, ethics and compliance, security, data collection and monitoring. Meetings were stacked closely together to try to fit everything in. I do like the variety, but I sometimes feel that things move so fast that I don’t get a chance to give any of the engagements the preparation and attention they deserve.

Our drinking water delivered by donkey

In a couple of meetings with staff, I was thinking how much I have built a certain comfort level with my team. People are surprisingly open in spite of me being an outsider. I’ve had staff who have shared sensitive marital issues, health issues (including female issues), etc. In a conservative environment, this is rare. Though someone told me a while back that being the outsider is the very reason they trust me with some of these things. I’m grateful that I have that level of trust with them, but there are times when it borders on too much information.

I was talking to a male staff the other day who told me that in Somalia, “Ladies love drivers and armed men.” When I asked him to elaborate, he went on to say how vehicles and weapons represent a seductive form of power. When I suggested a pen might do the same, he laughed dismissively and continued with his train of thought.

* * *

On Wednesday I had a meeting with one of the government ministries. Those are always a bit more intense than others, partly because you always want to make sure that you are in good graces with the leadership, but also because it can be a logistical and security challenge just to get there and return to the office safely.

I’m aware that even my Somali colleagues feel the same way. I also realize that my presence makes things trickier than it would be otherwise. Though they like having me participate in these engagements, admittedly it does raise the stakes for them from a security standpoint. As we left our compound, one of my team voiced a short prayer.

I should say that public prayers are rather normal in Somalia. Most larger meetings that I’m in, including internal ones, begin with a “dua” where someone in the room is designated, usually by whoever is chairing the meeting, to offer the prayer in Arabic. Such was the case for the meeting that we were attending that day. During the short prayer, a couple of the government staff across the table from me glanced in my direction, likely to see my reaction as an outsider.  I should say, it’s not super common for a Westerner to attend these ministry meetings outside the “green zone”. Most in the international community do not have security authorization to venture into the city and attend these types of engagements sometimes it can be sort of a novelty.

* * *

Darkening skies

On the way to the meeting, it was raining, lightly at first and then the skies opened up. Not far from our office, you need to go through a major security checkpoint. It’s located at a rather low point and a huge amount of water was collecting around the boom gates and security barriers. By the time we reached the other side, the water was completely flooding the streets. Visibility was poor as we weaved our way around stalled vehicles. Donkeys with their carts were standing in the median or on the roadside. I have seen flooding in Mogadishu but never anything like this. The streets had essentially become streams that were knee-deep.

Flooded roads

As we arrived at the ministry compound, I was thinking that this is probably the best time to have a visit like this, at least from a security standpoint. There is no record of terrorist attack during flooding. Rightly so. Would certainly dampen the intended impact.

* * *

For now, the rain persists in many parts of the country. Communities that had suffered a couple of years of drought are now inundated with water. I continue to campaign for massive investments in capital watershed management projects that would contribute to leveling off the impact of these extremes in weather. In the long run, it would be cheaper than rushing in with humanitarian response each time. But so far, there’s a lack of interest in these types of projects. Until then, we are at the mercy of the ever-increasing impacts of climate change. And as people continue to make war around the globe, valuable resources will be diverted away natural disasters. It’s the shaping of a bleak future.

Longonot

Our daughters are on a two-week school break. It’s more or less the midpoint between "summer" break and Christmas/New Year’s. Growing up it seems that we used to have a week in the fall and it had historically been timed to allow kids to participate in the harvest. No such harvest here, even more so because we’re in the southern hemisphere. Technically that would make this a spring break.

Whatever it's called, we kicked it off with a long weekend (Friday was a holiday) excursion outside of Nairobi. My oldest daughter had a weekend church retreat at a place about an hour north of Nairobi. The plan was leave on Thursday after school, take her to her retreat and then the rest of the family would continue on for another hour to a place where we had a small cottage booked near the base of Mt. Longonot. We were targeting a Friday morning hike, relax for a couple days, return to the retreat on Sunday to retrieve our daughter and then head home. That’s pretty much how it worked out.

Low sun on the countryside, white goats and rain clouds

There were a couple of variables we were concerned about. One was the possibility of rain. Light rain would be manageable but, due to the fact that parts of the proposed trail serve as drainage (some sections quite steep), they would be impassible with loads of water flowing down. The other variable is people. It’s a well-known hike, not too far from Nairobi and it was a three-day weekend. With a high chance of crowds, we figured that there may be a bit fewer people on Friday compared to Saturday, even less if we got an early start.

* * *

Kiran being checked in. Younger sister making sure all will be well.

We dropped off Kiran at her retreat. She hasn’t really spent much time sleeping away from family. She’s had a few overnight stays with friends but that’s about it. Plus, I’m not sure how well she knows this group. Some more than others. Anyway, we left her a phone (not a smart phone) and had the contacts of the people that were overseeing the weekend. Good experience for her to do this sort of thing.

 

By the time we arrived at our cottage, it was dark. We had a couple of take-out pizzas with us that we had for dinner outside by a fire. The air was cool and, with the exception of dogs barking in the distance, it was pleasantly quiet. We went to bed fairly early, looking to get to decent start the next morning.

 

 

* * *

It was a short drive to the entrance. We made it a bit longer given that we had a hard time finding the turnoff. It’s not well marked. One would think it would be more prominent given how many people climb it each year.

We arrived at the gate just before 7am. There was only one other vehicle which is a good sign. I’m obviously not a fan of crowds, particularly on hikes. We were checked in rather quickly and soon we were off. Within the first few minutes we saw a lone gazelle to our right and shortly after that, some zebras in the distance off to the left. We would see some giraffes later in the day. Wildlife on a hike is always a bonus.

* * *

The Kenya National Park Service website mistakenly refers to Longonot as an extinct volcano, one that no longer has a lava supply and is no longer near an active geological hot spot. In fact, the Kenyan Rift Valley sits on a shifting tectonic plate resulting in Africa’s most active geothermal zone. It powers about half of Kenya’s electricity grid and has made the country the 8^th largest geothermal power user in the world (soon to be 4^th). It has more geothermal power capacity under construction than any country in the world. So indeed, this area had a lot going on underground. According to Maasai accounts, Longonot last erupted in the 1860s. But there is more recent evidence of activity. Geodetic monitoring recorded at Longonot between 2004-2006 demonstrated the presence of active magmatic systems beneath the surface. During the hike we saw an active steam vent on the wall of the crater (there are apparently several) and there are massive steam vents just a few kilometers away. Maybe the park service says that it’s extinct to avoid scaring people. I don’t know but it’s certainly not extinct.

* * *

The trail to the crater rim is about 3.1 km. (a bit less than 2 miles). We did come across other hikers on the way but not many. It was a rather peaceful and beautiful morning. Arriving at the rim and peering into the massive crater was a thrill. It’s about 1.8 km. across (a little over a mile) and the crater floor is covered by a forest of small trees. Supposedly it is home to various species of wildlife (zebra, giraffe, Thomson's gazelle, buffaloes and hartebeest), but we didn’t see any of them. I'm assuming they were in the trees someplace. The walls of the crater are rather steep so I’m not sure how they get in our out. We did see scat on the rim trail so there must be paths for them to move up and down.

The crater. Small steam vent on the right, halfway down the edge of the shadowed area.

For many, arriving at the rim is the extent of the hike and they turn around and head back down. Admittedly, it’s a decent amount of hiking just to get to that point, provides a great view and a good sense of accomplishment. However, we had decided that if the weather was good, we would make our way counterclockwise around the rim to the actual summit, and then complete the 7.2 km (4.5 mile) loop encircling the crater. And that's what we did.

Following the trail around the rim was quite enjoyable. You have constant views on both sides of the trail. The day was clear so we could see all the way to the horizon. As we made our way around, we could see Lake Naivasha and the plumes of the geothermal steam nearby. Distant mountain ranges. Incredible views.

The rim trail as it begins to climb to the summit.

As we approached the section of the rim near the summit, the trail grew steep and involved some scrambling. There were sections with loose gravel where you had to be a bit more careful but it was nothing that was treacherous. Kinaya was in high spirits the entire time. As we neared the top, she accelerated her pace and made sure she was the first to the summit. It warmed my heart to see her hike so easily and joyfully.

Interesting trail.

The altitude at the summit is 2,776 m. (9,018 ft.). Except for a couple Filipino hikers that came through, we had the place to ourselves. We took our time, hydrated and had some snacks before continuing on.

High point of the hike.

The crater.

Up to that point, we had come across very few hikers, but this was about to change. The rest of the way around the rim we saw an increasing number of people. At narrow sections, we frequently had to stop to allow people to pass. Later we came across school groups, some in school uniforms and most without water. One important piece of advice we received before embarking on our hike was to take lots of water. I would have anyway, but we put extra bottles in our backpacks just in case. To see so many people hiking without any water at all was painful to watch. I would think that would be beyond uncomfortable to the point of dangerous. The trail is very exposed and on a sunny day like this, I can imagine a lot of people suffered. Bear in mind, the mountain’s latitude is 0°55 south. In other words, sitting just slightly below the equator.

When we arrived at the point on the rim where the trail begins its descent towards the park entrance, it was unrecognizable. When we were there in the morning, we were alone. Now, there were hundreds of people, many of them students, talking loudly, taking selfies, and scrolling through their social media accounts, most with no intention of taking on the crater loop. I was happy that we began the hike when we did but I almost wish we would have begun even earlier. I suppose the upside was that we noticed that most of the people were Kenyan. Years ago in Tanzania, doing something like this (and I did a lot) you would mostly encounter foreigners. It’s wonderful to see Kenyans embracing this sort of thing.

Interesting view of Longonot from the west. Shows the rim from the outside,
the peak in the sun as well as two smaller craters on the left.

The last stretch wasn’t as enjoyable as it could have been. The trail was packed with people heading in both directions. As the ground leveled off, the park entrance came into view. The entire hike (gate-around the rim-gate) of 13.5 km (almost 8.5 miles) took us a little over five hours allowing for a few rest breaks. We bought some cold drinks at the gate, spent a few minutes resting and enjoying the moment before making our way back to our cottage.

* * *

Having a soak after the hike.

There were a few sunburn patches where the sunscreen application was faulty or rubbed off. Our legs were tired and we were all a bit too dehydrated, but overall we fared pretty well. The plan for the remainder of the day was to relax. It was nice to frontload the hike and have two full days to chill before returning to pick up Kiran and make our way back to Nairobi.

The next day we took it easy in the morning. It was nice to take our time, have breakfast and not rush anywhere. Eventually we loaded up and headed to the town of Naivasha.

Naivasha was about 15 minutes from where we were staying. We’ve been there several times and every time we’re there, we feel that we should go more often. It’s only about an hour from Nairobi and there’s so much to see and do. It also has an interesting history. The area was primarily Maasai for several centuries before the arrival of the European settlers in the 1800’s. The area was one of the first parts of Kenya to be settled by Brits (after the coastal areas) and became popular for big game hunting and hedonistic behavior of the rich between the 1920s and 1940s. Though many of their descendants are still around, for the most part, WWII more or less put an end to this rather seamy phase of the area’s history.

Interestingly, the lake began serving as the country’s first international airport in 1932. Passenger planes known as “flying boats” transported people and mail back and forth to England, eventually also serving as a stopover for flights continuing on to South Africa. It wasn’t until 1958, when Mau Mau prisoners finished the construction of Embakasi Airport (predecessor to the current international airport), that the center of gravity for the colonialists shifted towards Nairobi.

Kinaya bonding with zebras.

We've been to several places on the lake. There is this one location that was quite nice, had a good restaurant and was an enjoyable place to hang out and camp. Flooding a few years ago killed many of the trees and the restaurant closed. There are still animals around and a few tourist activities, but it’s a shadow of its former self. I would rather there be nothing at all than a few things that are run down. In any case, we had brought some sandwiches and had a picnic while we were hanging out with the animals. There’s something magical about being in a place where zebras, impalas, wildebeest, waterbucks and giraffes are roaming on all sides of you. They were relaxed too since they don’t have any predators around.

Giraffe with Longonot as a backdrop.

* * *

Alas, on Sunday it was time to return to our noisy urban home. I tolerate life in the city. Weekends like this help to preserve my sanity. Already planning the next one. In the meantime, work beckons.

Diani for Work

Every year, except during the pandemic, we have regional meetings somewhere in East Africa. Many years ago, when my regional director was based in NY, and the region I was in stretched from Haiti to the Horn of Africa, it actually made sense (sort of) to have the meetings in NY. As such, there were a few years where I was making a couple of trips there per year. Other than the time away from family and the extra travel time, it was fun to get to know NY and have a break from my day-to-day duties.

Now that the current region is all based in the Horn and East Africa, we always have our meetings in the region. We’ve had them in Uganda, Zimbabwe and Tanzania (Zanzibar), but most frequently they are held in Kenya. It’s the most convenient for the regional team organizers who are almost entirely based in Nairobi and it’s full of venue options for hosting (in the city, at a lake, on the coast). This year we returned to the coast.

I should say that I didn’t protest much when it was suggested that we would be relegated to an Indian Ocean venue. There are lots of pluses. Other than the obvious proximity to a beach, it’s a one-hour flight from home. I’m so tired of travel that the idea of going anywhere farther away was a painful thought.

View from my room. Could be worse...

So Diani it was. I’m not sure how many times I’ve been to this particular town over the years but it’s probably around ten. Very cool to have a direct flight to such a small town, albeit loaded with resorts.

* * *

The meetings were kept to three days, for the most part, Tuesday through Thursday. There was some overlapping into a fourth day but, generally speaking, three full days of intense meetings is about the extent of which a brain, or at least MY brain, can handle. I have a hard time focusing on any one thing for very long. The nature of my job is incredibly diverse, bouncing throughout the day from HR, to nutrition, to supply chain, to water and sanitation, finance, to media, and on and on. It suits me since I have the attention span of a four-year-old. Three days is about all I can handle.

Evening out at an Italian restaurant.
One way to show off your wine cellar.

Several of us were on the same flight from Nairobi. I would guess that we made up about a third of the forty or so passengers on the plane. It was nice to be on the coast again though I am at the coast a lot, just a bit more to the northwest in Mogadishu. Though there is a similar tropical feel in Diani, it considerably more humid than in Somalia.

I downed my complimentary fresh juice as I checked in, and then proceeded to my room. I have to say, this was, by far, the nicest room I’ve ever had while staying on the coast. In fact, I assumed it was a mistake. When I arrived at the door, it was propped open by the lock latch so I hadn’t tried my key card. To confirm I was in the right room, I stepped back out, closed the door and tried the key card. Indeed, it was my room. Nice.

Nice room, but didn't spend much time there

The hotel had some good attributes. A nice beach, cleaned of seaweed every morning. A gym (always a plus for me). Clean pools. Decent food. The downside was the loud music each night until 11 or 12pm and the fact that the pools were closed by 6pm. It’s not uncommon in these hotels but it’s annoying, particularly for people who are in meetings all day. 

After a night swim in the ocean under the moon, dinner on the beach.
The moon always looks small in photos compared to what it looks like in real life.

One evening we opted on taking a dip in the ocean after the sun set. The hotel security guys even tried to keep us from doing that but gave up after passive resistance on our part. Something very cool about swimming in the warm ocean under a full moon. Colleagues are great but they’re not as much fun as my family would have been.

From the flight back to Nairobi, Mt. Kilimanjaro with Mt. Meru on the horizon to the left

 * * *