Amboseli with Liz

This is already a holiday season like no other. We normally would be in the US visiting family. We're now in the midst of our back-up plan. Priya’s sister Liz, in no easy feat, successfully made it here from Nepal. Going from northern hemisphere to southern, she passed from winter into summer - the opposite direction we normally go this time of year. Temperature is in the 80s F (upper 20s C) in the Kenyan summer. Normally we would be in chilly Indiana only to go to chillier Idaho the day after Christmas. We would be plotting out our winter sports and have multiple family gatherings, carol singing, presents, etc. It’s a magical time filled with traditions and in both families.

All that has been blown out of the water. We didn’t make the trip to the US. Even the families in the US are not getting together as they normally would. If I’m honest, we have discussed in the past the possibility of not going to the US in December. It’s traditionally the worst time to travel. The tickets are the costliest and weather is unpredictable and can mess with the flights. But regardless of where I’ve lived, I’ve only missed the holidays in Idaho once in my life. This will be the second. I would have a hard time making the decision not to go if it weren't for a pandemic.

So Liz was able to come and brings the opportunity to be with family without leaving Kenya. With only a couple of weeks to work with, we decided to fit in a safari and a trip to the coast, including a few days in Nairobi in the margins.

We opted on Amboseli as our safari destination. It’s the place we’ve been to the most but it’s really the quintessential safari experience. It’s a relatively small park but it offers loads of animals and the stunning backdrop of Mt. Kilimanjaro. With marshy areas supplied by glacier melt from Kili, it adds to the diversity of the wildlife.

Day 1

We would only be going for a couple of nights but, given the tight schedule, it was the best we could do. We left on Monday morning at 6:30. The drive there is 3 ½ to 4 ½ hours depending on traffic and who’s driving. It’s not a bad drive once you get beyond the outskirts of Nairobi. In fact you begin seeing animals (other than cows and goats) over an hour before you get to your destination. There are some animals, particularly impalas, zebras and so forth, that roam outside the parks. As you get closer to the park gate, obviously, the sightings increase.

at least they're wearing masks

There were many differences about this trip that previous trips. The first thing difference is that we were swamped at the gate by Masai selling their various trinkets. We’ve experienced this at Masai Mara but not here. They’re in a tough situation since tourism is way down due to the pandemic and I’m sure that they’re desperate to make a few sales.

the lodge

We checked into the lodge. We would normally prefer to camp or be in a tented camp, but we were particularly keen on having access to a pool. With the weather being quite warm, it was a fantastic way to cool down after a hot, dusty game drive.

breakfast with animals as a backdrop

We arrived shortly before noon. We proceeded to have lunch, spend some time at the pool, had tea and headed out on our first game drive around 4pm.

On the drive in we’d already noticed that there were large numbers of flamingos. I don’t remember seeing any in our previous times there. It was a nice addition.

Amboseli is sort of known for its elephants. We saw plenty. Unlike some other animals, they generally move slowly so it’s good to park, shut off the engine and enjoy them as they munch on copious amounts of grass.

The rest of the evening was more or less “normal” game drive and we slowly made our way to the lodge. As we were moving down a road along side a flamingo-laden lake, Kinaya announce that she had seen the peak of Kilimanjaro. Obscured by clouds up to that point, we were excited to see that the top of the mountain had emerged and was still visible as the sun was setting. We parked, sat and took it in for a few magical minutes before continuing on to the lodge.

she finally shows herself

The normal drill, once you return after the evening game drive, is to have a nice warm shower, rinse off the dust from the day, and then make your way to dinner. With the faint glow of the sun still in the sky, we could begin to see the Jupiter-Saturn conjunction. It was impressive though I suppose these celestial phenomena, at least for me, never quite seem to live up to the hype.

Saturn on the right apparently

At the lodge, the Masai guards had started a fire in the pit and a few people were sitting around having some drinks before dinner. We didn’t take advantage of it the first evening but we did the following day. I’m not sure where they get all the wood, in an area not particularly laden with trees, but they make these massive fires every evening.  Nice way to end the day.

* * *

Day 2

On day 2, as is the standard practice, we were up early, had coffee and a snake at 6am and were off on the morning game drive by 6:30. The idea is to catch the animals when they are most active – at the bookends of the day, and, thankfully, when the lighting is also the best.

The last time we were in Amboseli, I was doing the driving. This time we had a safari guide. In addition to the advantage of me being able to relax more, it is also good to take advantage of the inter-guide communications. In most parks, guides are generally good about sharing information regarding key animal sightings. Our guide this time confessed that the system is not without flaws. In fact sometimes guides from some tribes only communicate with other guides from the same tribe. Not always, he said, and not in all parks, but he said it does happen.

On this occasion, there indeed was some sharing of information. Within the first half hour, our guide, Elijah, hit the accelerator and off we went. Soon, in the early morning light, we caught a glimpse of cheetahs off in the distance. 

That alone would be great but they were soon heading out direction. There were four in all. They are no doubt my favorite animals. As they neared the road they proceeded to climb all over the road sign. Then they climbed down, darted across the road and headed out across the grass. I’ve never seen cheetahs in pairs, a mother and two cubs, but this is the first time I’ve ever seen four grown cheetahs together. It was pretty amazing. Not a bad way to start the day.

A bit later we saw some bat-eared foxes. I don’t remember seeing them before. We would see them twice on this trip. 

As we went further saw a few vehicles gathered, people looking off in the distance. We pulled up and scanned the horizon. We soon saw a rather large male lion sitting at the edge of a rather lush area of the park. It was a wonderful setting, just a bit far off in the distance. We assume a corresponding pride was somewhere not far away but we never saw them.

By a little after 8:30, we were back at the lodge and ready for breakfast. I do like that routine of going out early, coming back, having breakfast, hitting the pool, relaxing, having lunch, maybe a nap, tea at 3:30, evening game drive at 4pm. I think I could do that for weeks at a time.

afternoon tea - an English legacy in Kenya

In the evening, we headed over to the lookout. It’s not absolutely amazing but it does give a good overview of the park. It is a very nice view. I suppose the only drawback is that, having been there several times, I would rather be driving around looking at/for animals.

As the sun was getting low in the sky, we honed in on a lone bull elephant for a while. I was beginning to think that was the extent of what we were going to see when there was  some chatter on the radio. Once again, Elijah hit the accelerator and off we went. I heard the word “simba” so I knew there was a lion sighting someplace. These things can be dynamic so it’s always good to get there as quickly as possible. Don’t want to miss the moment.

As we approached, some vehicles were already leaving. We began to think the moment had passed, or never was, but Elijah pressed on and we would decide for ourselves. As we approached the area where vehicles were assembled, we saw a beautiful male lion off in the distance – very possible the same male that we saw that morning. 

king of the jungle - as it should be

We had barely come to a stop when he rose and started moving in our direction. There was some intentionality in the way he trotted, as if he had something in mind. At the same time three females were also heading in our direction from the other side of the road. To our good fortune, the four met in the road, directly in front of us. 

in the mood for romance

I have to say, I did feel a bit bad for all those who had given up on the scene and had left prematurely. We weren’t really sure what was going to happen. A part of me felt that there might be a battle. In the end, it turned out to be quite the opposite. It was what appeared to be an amorous encounter of sniffing each others’ private parts and something that almost looked like snuggling. Then the four headed off to our left, the same side from which the male appeared, taking their time as they walked. Apparently they there would be mating, though we would never know which of the three females would be the lucky feline.

As they strode off into the distance, Elijah suggested we head back given that the sun had just set. The air was cool as we took in the last moments of the drive. Back to the lodge for a cold Tusker. Such a good day and there was more to come.

* * * 

Day 3

We were only booked for two nights so on day 3 we would head back to Nairobi. But we agreed with Elijah that we would be willing to get up early and have one last morning safari before having breakfast and hitting the road. I suppose it’s a lot to ask of the kids. They do enjoy the game drives but two early mornings in a row followed by a long drive home was a bit rough. In the US, children are more accustomed to such things but not ours. I will say that the quality of the roads and drivers here make it a bit more exhausting, speaking from experience.

The final morning game drive did have moments that made it more than worthwhile. It began slowly but we eventually found ourselves at an interesting scene where a male lion was lounging alertly next to a kill (appeared to be a wildebeest). 

hovering hyenas

 

 

He was surrounded by about a dozen hungry hyenas looking to swipe his carrion. Hyenas are notorious for allowing other animals to do the work for them and then feast on the leftovers, or whatever they can steal. The fact that this particular, well outnumbered, king of the jungle went unchallenged either said something about him or possibly the level of desperation of the hyenas. Either way, the male lion, seemingly full from his feast earlier in the morning, had no interest in sharing – likely planning on protecting it for his pride who would come later in the morning. We didn’t have time to wait and find out given that we needed to get to breakfast and head out.

After we’d left the scene, on the way back to the lodge, we came across a group of female lions. We were now feeling fully spoiled. Were they part of the pride connected to the male we had just left? Likely, said Elijah. 

They were so beautiful in the morning light and we could have watched them for much longer but we needed to get back before they stopped serving breakfast.

We ate, packed up and loaded everything in the Land Cruiser. Road construction in and around Nairobi caused Elijah to head back a different way. It’s a much longer route but it would prevent us from being stuck in traffic and would allow us to see some new roads.

Masai tending cattle

On the way out of the park we were afforded continued views of Kilimanjaro as well as some gerenuks. They’re like a cross between an impala and a giraffe. Crazy looking animal, and somewhat rare. We’ve only seen them once before. 

gerenuk

 It was a short trip but we packed in a lot. We would now but in Nairobi for Christmas before heading to the coast. Not the same as being in the US, seeing my family, skiing, etc. but not a bad back-up plan.

 

 

Mogadishu

After being back in Nairobi for a few days, I prepared for my return trip to Somalia for the first time since March. There was some debate about whether or not it would be wise to go given the pandemic in addition to the country entering into the insecurity of a rather contentious election period. There had been a series of attacks in the capital the days leading up to the trip but my head of security, the head of the Mogadishu office and I were all in agreement that we would limit my movements and make the trip relatively low risk.

The first bit of preparation was the PCR test. I hadn’t had one throughout the pandemic thus far. I hadn’t traveled internationally. I hadn’t been in contact with anyone that I knew to be infected and I hadn’t had any suspicious symptoms. So better to leave the tests to those who need them more. 

I would be traveling with a colleague, Willem, a former fellow that has become a full-time staff. Due to the limitations of his year-long fellowship, he wasn’t ever allowed to travel to Somalia. Some might think this to be a perk rather than a constraint, but generally these fellows have a hunger to get involved and be a part of work on the ground, an opportunity you would have if you were assigned to most other countries. So when he became a regular staff a few months ago, he was no longer under the constraints of the fellowship. The only problem was that it was in the middle of a pandemic so he still hadn’t been able to go. When I told him that I was likely going in late November, he jumped at the chance to come along.

We went to an uncomfortably crowded clinic for the PCR test. I’ve been quite successful about respecting Covid protocols and avoiding groups of people. I thought to myself that it would be a shame to contract the virus while getting a test. On the upside, I suspect that most of the people in the clinic were getting tests in order to travel rather than because they were symptomatic. Of course I scanned the indoor/outdoor facility to see if anyone looked or sounded ill, just in case. I received my PCR results within 24 hours which was impressive. I was told that in most of the US, that’s not likely to happen. Willem’s test took a bit longer but in the end we were both negative and we were off at 4:30 on a Monday morning.

I have become acquainted with many of the people I encounter through my international commute. From the taxi (the taxi company that we have used for years was apparently a pandemic casualty so we are now contracted with a different company, thus I didn’t know this guy – in fact he didn’t even know where terminal 2 was.), to the check-in agents, snack bar staff, some of the airport security, flight attendants, etc. Some recognized me, even with a mask, and welcomed me back after eight months. I’m sure they’re happy to see some of the travel demand coming back.

We arrived in Mogadishu and soon were in our armored vehicle/armed escort heading to the office. There had been some rain in previous weeks but now it was dry and hot, though not as hot as I was expecting. It felt good to be back.

As we arrived at the office, it was a warm welcome after all this time. Willem was finally able to meet all of these staff that he has been working with for over a year. It’s a phenomenon that is common around the world – developing virtual relationships without any “real” contact. I’m sure that was one of the more satisfying aspects of the trip for him. Even for me. Though I knew all these people well, it’s been rather frustrating to work with them exclusively via web meetings. There’s no question that it changes the interpersonal exchanges, particularly in the context of Somalia.

The one thing that we needed to start sorting out was whether or not it would be wise to step out to visit some activities and meet with staff in one of the clinics. I definitely wanted Willem to have a chance to see some of Mogadishu, other than the airport compound and the two kilometer stretch to our office. These consultations generally involve only a couple of key staff for obvious reasons. The exact route is determined between our security focal point and the private security team just prior to heading out. The particular clinic that I chose to visit was selected based on the fact that it is on the opposite side of the city (allowing Willem to get a good perspective of what Mogadishu is like) and provides a nice cross-section of the services that are being provided. The IDP camps (areas where the those who have been displaced by conflict, natural disaster, etc. are residing) are less accessible for security reasons. One of the health facilities that we support is in an IDP area closer to the outskirts of the city and is a great example of the support being provided to these people who are in desperate need of these services. I’ve been there several times and we even took our CEO there a little over a year ago but there have been a few attacks there recently and we decided that it wasn’t worth the risk.

It was around 9:30 when we arrived at the hospital. It’s a good time to visit since that is when it’s the most active. People arrive from about 7am when it’s cooler and things taper off in the afternoon. Everyone was wearing a mask. Many women in Somalia wear a niqab anyway (Muslim face covering) so it’s an easier ask for females. Men, however, aren’t as keen on such an obligation.

The visit went very well. We used to limit our time visiting facilities to 20 minutes for security reasons. Nowadays we’re a bit more flexible. It sort of depends on the perceived risk at the time. On this day, and because we had a little extra time, after the visit we sat in some plastic chairs and spent a few minutes talking to the hospital management, some were our staff and some were Ministry of Health staff. It was a rare time to just sit under a tree, listen to what they have to say and ask them some questions. I was told later that they really appreciated it. It’s good for me to know since we’re so used to moving quickly, justified by security protocols and busy schedules, and we need to think through how we can build in ore time like this without compromising security.

From the hospital we made our way to the coast. I’m a huge fan of Mogadishu’s old city and the nearby lido area. It’s rich with history and beauty. It’s also something that outsiders rarely get to see. 

When I talk to people about Somalia I always try to balance it out between the good and the not-so-good. Africans in general get very tired of the negative way it is portrayed in the rest of the world. I’ve been sensitive to this since I’ve lived here and have tried to avoid the photos and stories of starving babies, natural disaster and disease. Because I’m a humanitarian worker and because these things do exist, it would be dishonest to avoid the topic entirely but it’s important to also talk about the cultural richness and stunning beauty that makes this such an amazing continent.

Case in point, the Indian Ocean coastline of Somalia. We went to the restaurant on the coast where I have been on several occasions. It’s a striking contrast to the web of security checkpoints, bombed out buildings, plethora of weaponry, poverty, etc. as you make your way there from the hospital. It’s such a peaceful and wonderful location. Stunning view. Great food. The contrast remains in view as you’re flanked by armed guards but it doesn’t take much away from the tranquil setting (particularly if you’ve become accustomed to it). Somalia is a country of contrasts. Sometimes, adjacent to a bombed structure, you have a modern, new building that has sprung up revealing that the country is indeed pressing forward, in spite of its troubled past (and troubled present).

On the way back to the office I received a call/invitation to meet with the director of one of the major hospitals. Always with these things I consider the security, usefulness, time, etc. implications. In this case it made sense, and it was on the way. I had never been to this hospital before so it was an opportunity to have a better perspective about what they are doing given that we occasionally partner with them. We had a nice chat with the director and some of his team. While there one of my team suggested we inquire about getting a PCR test, something that we were needing to do anyway prior to catching our flight back to Nairobi. Within minutes a nurse arrived with all the necessary gear and we were quickly swabbed. The results would arrive the next day. Once again, efficiency that you don’t see in other countries, including the US.

I had intended on limiting my external visits/meetings as much as possible. It is “election season” and most government officials are preoccupied with the necessary posturing and networking. It’s also a time where there is generally a spike in insecurity. You don’t want to find yourself in the work place at the wrong time. The other concern, of course, is Covid given the uncertainty around the data and the prevalence of the virus (and the fact that people are almost completely ignoring the Covid protocols). But I received another invitation, this time to meet with the director of the country’s largest hospital. In fact, if you’re going to bend your rules on external visits, hospitals are not bad options. They are about the only place where people do a decent job of respecting pandemic protocols.

We have been supporting this hospital throughout the pandemic. We’ve provided protection equipment (PPE) and other items necessary to support the response. I had only met the director recently so I didn’t know her well. But I’ve heard good things and the visit confirmed them.

We chatted briefly in her nice office before heading to the Covid ward. It was mostly empty but we had a chance to see the well-equipped facility which will, hopefully, be repurposed post-pandemic. It had piped in oxygen (no cylinders) which is nicer than many Western hospitals. The entire hospital was clean and well organized. I was quite impressed. We even had chance to visit their new neonatal ICU (scheduled to open the following day). We also support a reproductive health clinic so it was nice to see how that was going. Contraception is a delicate topic in Somalia. Some forms are not even available in the country. We tend to focus a lot on birth spacing (in the interest of the health of the children) and unfortunately can’t really talk much about families’ ability to provide for large families. But all indication is that the country is making progress and the health of children is improving.

As we left the office we drove on the street where the massive attack was in Oct. 2017 where over five hundred people were killed. There remains little to indicate that such an attack ever happened. Most of the shops have been rebuilt in the blast that flattened an entire neighborhood. I don’t pass through the area very often so when I do, I find it rather sobering. Most streets in the city have experienced some sort of attack but none on that scale.

The next day we headed back to the airport. It’s always a relief to make it to the departure lounge knowing I’m headed back to be with family but with all the tensions around the elections and the ever-present pandemic, it was even more so. Willem reminded me in the lounge that it was Thanksgiving. It had completely slipped my mind over the past several days. It’s not a big holiday for us not living in the US for so many years but I usually don’t forget it entirely. In any case, it was a pleasant thought that I would be home in time to be there for Thanksgiving evening. Turning the corner towards the holidays.

Watamu

In late October we went to the coast for a few days given that the girls had some vacation. It’s tough to talk about taking a holiday given that so many people are suffering these days. I’ve talked to many who are reluctant to post anything that shows them enjoying themselves. At the same time it’s probably what we need. If all we see are depressing accounts of disease and hatred, it will continue to feed the negativity. So, here’s an attempt at some positivity.

Our daughters’ school seems to have vacations at odd times compared to other schools in Kenya. It’s often difficult to take advantage of this as a family due to my work obligations. This time I decided that we could take advantage of the ability to travel within the country and escape the confines of our apartment. We’ve been rather good at respecting the Covid protocols and staying home a lot so a change of setting was much welcomed, even if I would need to work.

One of the positives about working from home is that you don’t always need to be home. Technology has improved to enable one to carry out work obligations from a variety of locations. This has been enabled by big changes in technology over the past few years. I can only imagine how different things would have been if Covid had hit even five years ago. In Kenya and Somalia we’ve seen improvements not only in how widespread access has become but the speed has increased to support much of the technology being used to communicate effectively. I was able to access email in the hotel, on the beach, on a boat, etc. (I was usually in a room in the hotel where I could get the best connectivity).

It’s not fun to be focused on work while everyone around you is at play. But I needed to continually tell myself that there are far worse places to work and that I would have ample time in the evenings and on the weekend to hang out with family.

We decided on the town of Watamu as our destination, a small coastal town in Kenya, north of Mombasa. It’s known for its Marine National Park and Reserve, nice beaches and interesting coastline. We hadn’t been there before so it was an opportunity to explore a new area.

Masked arrival into the Malindi airport

Tourist destinations in the country have suffered during the pandemic just like everywhere else. They were given a reprieve a few months ago as the government opened up domestic travel. At that time, tourists were limited to residents of Kenya but as international travel opened, a small trickle of foreign travelers have added to what is still a rather depressed sector. Though disparities between the rich and the poor in the country are rather stark (and growing), Kenya nonetheless has a rather strong upper-middle class that are as important to tourism in the country as international travelers. As such, unlike many countries in Africa, the majority of the other tourists staying in our hotel were Kenyan.

The airline was on top of things regarding Covid preparations. It was good to see since you’re aware you’re taking a bit of a risk in traveling. Masks were required everywhere. The flight attendant would let you know if your mask wasn’t on. I felt they did a good job of managing a tough situation and one that is critical to keeping at least part of the economy moving.

Spoiled children

The hotel was also quite strict. Staff did a pretty good job of setting the example with masks and distancing the exception of some of the gardeners who weren’t always wearing their masks properly. But that’s not the end of the world given that they were always outside and usually a safe distance away anyway. They had a buffet but it wasn’t self-service. You said what you wanted and they would plate it for you. Generally speaking, it was mostly low risk. In retrospect, the pain points were probably the airplane (no mandatory PCR test for domestic flights) and taxi to and from the airport (drivers wear masks and the windows are open but it’s still close proximity).

During the day I would sit under a fan in a semi-open space with electricity and internet, getting work done and having meetings from time to time. I had access to nice coffee and a view of some weaver bird nests. It was a pleasant enough way to do what I had to do but by the end of the day I was more than ready to rinse off the tropical stickiness and hit the pool.

The beautiful weaver bird

 

The dolphin/snorkeling excursion

On one day we decided to take a boat trip to see dolphins and go snorkeling. While waiting for the boat, low tide afforded us a chance to see some eels. I’d seen them before while living in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Some of the nearby islands had small pools where the eels would hang out. They’re like super fat water snakes.

After about a half hour in the boat, just outside the reef, we caught glimpse of the dolphins. I think I’ve only seen dolphins in the wild once before and that was on a deep sea fishing trip while living in Dar. I went whale watching a couple of times while living in Monterey, California, and I think this was just as much of a thrill.

On the way back to the reef where we were going to snorkel, the waves were a bit choppy. A couple of people were visibly ill, one lady throwing up over the side of the boat. Her friend had other plans than caring for her sick friend. She made a pathetic and brief attempt to care for her ill partner before peeling off a layer to reveal a skimpy, inappropriate swimsuit and headed to the bow for some selfies. It appeared that this was a premeditated photo opportunity with the turquoise Indian Ocean as a backdrop. Soon she had one of the boat staff shooting the photos for her as she worked her way through a variety of poses. Not sure if this is in his job description but I never heard any complaints.

The boat soon came to a stop, dropped anchor and we were able to put on our snorkel gear and hop in. The eastern coast of Africa has to be one of the best places in the world to snorkel/dive. It’s so amazing. The water is a comfortable temperature all year round. We had gear for the girls and were hoping they would take part but I think they were suffering somewhat from motion sickness as well. They got in the water and attempted it but were soon more interested in being back in the boat. We’ve taken them before but they’ve yet to really get into it. I think they’ll come around to it over time.

After just a few days, we were back to Nairobi. It was appearing likely that we would not be heading to the US for the holidays so we were, sadly, now making other plans, including possibly another trip to the sea.