Mogadishu

After being back in Nairobi for a few days, I prepared for my return trip to Somalia for the first time since March. There was some debate about whether or not it would be wise to go given the pandemic in addition to the country entering into the insecurity of a rather contentious election period. There had been a series of attacks in the capital the days leading up to the trip but my head of security, the head of the Mogadishu office and I were all in agreement that we would limit my movements and make the trip relatively low risk.

The first bit of preparation was the PCR test. I hadn’t had one throughout the pandemic thus far. I hadn’t traveled internationally. I hadn’t been in contact with anyone that I knew to be infected and I hadn’t had any suspicious symptoms. So better to leave the tests to those who need them more. 

I would be traveling with a colleague, Willem, a former fellow that has become a full-time staff. Due to the limitations of his year-long fellowship, he wasn’t ever allowed to travel to Somalia. Some might think this to be a perk rather than a constraint, but generally these fellows have a hunger to get involved and be a part of work on the ground, an opportunity you would have if you were assigned to most other countries. So when he became a regular staff a few months ago, he was no longer under the constraints of the fellowship. The only problem was that it was in the middle of a pandemic so he still hadn’t been able to go. When I told him that I was likely going in late November, he jumped at the chance to come along.

We went to an uncomfortably crowded clinic for the PCR test. I’ve been quite successful about respecting Covid protocols and avoiding groups of people. I thought to myself that it would be a shame to contract the virus while getting a test. On the upside, I suspect that most of the people in the clinic were getting tests in order to travel rather than because they were symptomatic. Of course I scanned the indoor/outdoor facility to see if anyone looked or sounded ill, just in case. I received my PCR results within 24 hours which was impressive. I was told that in most of the US, that’s not likely to happen. Willem’s test took a bit longer but in the end we were both negative and we were off at 4:30 on a Monday morning.

I have become acquainted with many of the people I encounter through my international commute. From the taxi (the taxi company that we have used for years was apparently a pandemic casualty so we are now contracted with a different company, thus I didn’t know this guy – in fact he didn’t even know where terminal 2 was.), to the check-in agents, snack bar staff, some of the airport security, flight attendants, etc. Some recognized me, even with a mask, and welcomed me back after eight months. I’m sure they’re happy to see some of the travel demand coming back.

We arrived in Mogadishu and soon were in our armored vehicle/armed escort heading to the office. There had been some rain in previous weeks but now it was dry and hot, though not as hot as I was expecting. It felt good to be back.

As we arrived at the office, it was a warm welcome after all this time. Willem was finally able to meet all of these staff that he has been working with for over a year. It’s a phenomenon that is common around the world – developing virtual relationships without any “real” contact. I’m sure that was one of the more satisfying aspects of the trip for him. Even for me. Though I knew all these people well, it’s been rather frustrating to work with them exclusively via web meetings. There’s no question that it changes the interpersonal exchanges, particularly in the context of Somalia.

The one thing that we needed to start sorting out was whether or not it would be wise to step out to visit some activities and meet with staff in one of the clinics. I definitely wanted Willem to have a chance to see some of Mogadishu, other than the airport compound and the two kilometer stretch to our office. These consultations generally involve only a couple of key staff for obvious reasons. The exact route is determined between our security focal point and the private security team just prior to heading out. The particular clinic that I chose to visit was selected based on the fact that it is on the opposite side of the city (allowing Willem to get a good perspective of what Mogadishu is like) and provides a nice cross-section of the services that are being provided. The IDP camps (areas where the those who have been displaced by conflict, natural disaster, etc. are residing) are less accessible for security reasons. One of the health facilities that we support is in an IDP area closer to the outskirts of the city and is a great example of the support being provided to these people who are in desperate need of these services. I’ve been there several times and we even took our CEO there a little over a year ago but there have been a few attacks there recently and we decided that it wasn’t worth the risk.

It was around 9:30 when we arrived at the hospital. It’s a good time to visit since that is when it’s the most active. People arrive from about 7am when it’s cooler and things taper off in the afternoon. Everyone was wearing a mask. Many women in Somalia wear a niqab anyway (Muslim face covering) so it’s an easier ask for females. Men, however, aren’t as keen on such an obligation.

The visit went very well. We used to limit our time visiting facilities to 20 minutes for security reasons. Nowadays we’re a bit more flexible. It sort of depends on the perceived risk at the time. On this day, and because we had a little extra time, after the visit we sat in some plastic chairs and spent a few minutes talking to the hospital management, some were our staff and some were Ministry of Health staff. It was a rare time to just sit under a tree, listen to what they have to say and ask them some questions. I was told later that they really appreciated it. It’s good for me to know since we’re so used to moving quickly, justified by security protocols and busy schedules, and we need to think through how we can build in ore time like this without compromising security.

From the hospital we made our way to the coast. I’m a huge fan of Mogadishu’s old city and the nearby lido area. It’s rich with history and beauty. It’s also something that outsiders rarely get to see. 

When I talk to people about Somalia I always try to balance it out between the good and the not-so-good. Africans in general get very tired of the negative way it is portrayed in the rest of the world. I’ve been sensitive to this since I’ve lived here and have tried to avoid the photos and stories of starving babies, natural disaster and disease. Because I’m a humanitarian worker and because these things do exist, it would be dishonest to avoid the topic entirely but it’s important to also talk about the cultural richness and stunning beauty that makes this such an amazing continent.

Case in point, the Indian Ocean coastline of Somalia. We went to the restaurant on the coast where I have been on several occasions. It’s a striking contrast to the web of security checkpoints, bombed out buildings, plethora of weaponry, poverty, etc. as you make your way there from the hospital. It’s such a peaceful and wonderful location. Stunning view. Great food. The contrast remains in view as you’re flanked by armed guards but it doesn’t take much away from the tranquil setting (particularly if you’ve become accustomed to it). Somalia is a country of contrasts. Sometimes, adjacent to a bombed structure, you have a modern, new building that has sprung up revealing that the country is indeed pressing forward, in spite of its troubled past (and troubled present).

On the way back to the office I received a call/invitation to meet with the director of one of the major hospitals. Always with these things I consider the security, usefulness, time, etc. implications. In this case it made sense, and it was on the way. I had never been to this hospital before so it was an opportunity to have a better perspective about what they are doing given that we occasionally partner with them. We had a nice chat with the director and some of his team. While there one of my team suggested we inquire about getting a PCR test, something that we were needing to do anyway prior to catching our flight back to Nairobi. Within minutes a nurse arrived with all the necessary gear and we were quickly swabbed. The results would arrive the next day. Once again, efficiency that you don’t see in other countries, including the US.

I had intended on limiting my external visits/meetings as much as possible. It is “election season” and most government officials are preoccupied with the necessary posturing and networking. It’s also a time where there is generally a spike in insecurity. You don’t want to find yourself in the work place at the wrong time. The other concern, of course, is Covid given the uncertainty around the data and the prevalence of the virus (and the fact that people are almost completely ignoring the Covid protocols). But I received another invitation, this time to meet with the director of the country’s largest hospital. In fact, if you’re going to bend your rules on external visits, hospitals are not bad options. They are about the only place where people do a decent job of respecting pandemic protocols.

We have been supporting this hospital throughout the pandemic. We’ve provided protection equipment (PPE) and other items necessary to support the response. I had only met the director recently so I didn’t know her well. But I’ve heard good things and the visit confirmed them.

We chatted briefly in her nice office before heading to the Covid ward. It was mostly empty but we had a chance to see the well-equipped facility which will, hopefully, be repurposed post-pandemic. It had piped in oxygen (no cylinders) which is nicer than many Western hospitals. The entire hospital was clean and well organized. I was quite impressed. We even had chance to visit their new neonatal ICU (scheduled to open the following day). We also support a reproductive health clinic so it was nice to see how that was going. Contraception is a delicate topic in Somalia. Some forms are not even available in the country. We tend to focus a lot on birth spacing (in the interest of the health of the children) and unfortunately can’t really talk much about families’ ability to provide for large families. But all indication is that the country is making progress and the health of children is improving.

As we left the office we drove on the street where the massive attack was in Oct. 2017 where over five hundred people were killed. There remains little to indicate that such an attack ever happened. Most of the shops have been rebuilt in the blast that flattened an entire neighborhood. I don’t pass through the area very often so when I do, I find it rather sobering. Most streets in the city have experienced some sort of attack but none on that scale.

The next day we headed back to the airport. It’s always a relief to make it to the departure lounge knowing I’m headed back to be with family but with all the tensions around the elections and the ever-present pandemic, it was even more so. Willem reminded me in the lounge that it was Thanksgiving. It had completely slipped my mind over the past several days. It’s not a big holiday for us not living in the US for so many years but I usually don’t forget it entirely. In any case, it was a pleasant thought that I would be home in time to be there for Thanksgiving evening. Turning the corner towards the holidays.