Masai Mara

The pandemic drags on. Over five months since the first recorded infection in Kenya. Infection/death rates in the country are still relatively high but seem to be on a downward trajectory, even with the recent opening of movement within the country. That’s a good sign. Masks are the norm within Nairobi though you do have neighborhoods, particularly as you move to the outskirts of the city, where coronavirus protocols are taken less seriously. It seems we’ve hit a sort of status quo that will likely be the norm for the indefinite future.

After Diani, I was finally able to take a proper holiday. It’s sad to start taking your vacation AFTER leaving the beach but that’s how it goes. The holiday will be a mix of travel within Kenya and being at home doing some things on my enormous to do list – things that I would like to do but never get a chance. Again, it’s not the same as being in the US with family but it is a rare opportunity that I need to take advantage of.

However being in Kenya while being on a break will be strange. It’s hard to feel like I shouldn’t be working. Yesterday I spent a half-day going through work emails, forwarding meeting invitations and so forth. It's hard not to. It’s helpful for the continuity of the organization but not helpful for the continuity of my “vacation”.

 * * *

To kick things off for my “vacation”, we received an invitation from some friends to go camping last Saturday, not long after returning from Diani. In fact it was pretty good timing and we’ve been planning on doing some camping anyway, so committed that we upgraded our tent a few weeks ago – one that fits the four of us better than our existing tent. In retrospect, it turned out to be a very smart move, possibly the best tent I’ve owned. And I’ve owned many. 

Camping is a safe activity during a pandemic. But it's also sort of a test on different levels. One test is whether you get along with your fellow campers. It’s not a given. If people approach the experience in fundamentally different ways, it can be a nightmare. Fortunately we camped with this family last year so we knew in advance what we were getting into. These guys are fun to camp with and have a similar approach to being in the great outdoors. They’re better equipped than we are AND they have kids that are similar in age. No brainer.

The best part was the suggested destination: the Masai Mara. The Mara is essentially an extension of the Serengeti that overlaps into Kenya. To the animals, it’s the same vast piece of protected savanna. We’ve discussed camping for some time. We’ve discussed returning to the Mara. This put the two together. Moreover, it’s the time of the Great Migration – the season where massive herds of mostly wildebeest, some zebras, topis, etc. migrate towards greener pastures. Most people have seen photos of the perilous river crossings where some of the animals succumb to the jaws of the awaiting crocs. It’s normally the busiest time of year for the Masai Mara and the park is generally inundated with tourists from all over the world to see this amazing phenomenon. This year, with international flights mostly suspended, park visitation has mostly been limited to Kenyans and internationals based in Kenya. Thus this was a rare opportunity to see the migration without the tremendous crowds.

the Masai Mara

 

Related to this was the rare access to this campsite. From what we are told, these spaces are generally booked years in advance. Without the vast amount of bookings from abroad, we were able to jump on it with relatively short notice. 

* * *

Day 1: The Drive & Setting up Camp

Saturday morning we met our fellow campers and we drove from Nairobi in tandem. The first part of the drive is sort of hellish Kenyan highway driving. Lots of trucks, unpredictable drivers and precarious opportunities to pass. But after a couple hours we were on roads we’d never been on. In fact they were quite good and the traffic was light the rest of the way. The last hour of the drive is through the Mara Conservancy which is essentially the equivalent of a game drive with plenty of animals to see.

We had been told that we needed to pack in all the drinking/wash water we needed for four nights. We also needed firewood as none of this would be available to us within the park. We’d already loaded up on the water but we were lacking most of the firewood. Near the gate to the Conservancy, as we were surrounded by dozens of Masai trying to sell us trinkets of various kinds, we asked some guys about firewood. After some back and forth, they seemed to understand what we wanted and told us to follow them. Trees are relatively scarce in the area so I was curious about what we would end up with. So we drove into the nearby village and the first stop was apparently a little school. Some guy seemed to be willing to sell off the school’s wood. Obviously we balked at that (picturing some guy dismantling latrines to make some money off the tourists) and someone else told us to come with him. On we went and soon we were parked and listening to someone sawing and pulling together some scrap wood from his house (mostly dried roots from some bushes). At they were piling up the wood, we began to negotiate price. In the end we decided to be overly generous – a theme that began when we were in Amboseli. You buy a bit more or pay a bit more than you normally would given the challenging situation all these people are in these days.

The next obstacle was where to put the wood. In addition to our camping stuff, we had loaded in about a hundred liters of water. Every nook and cranny of both vehicles was full. Our only option was for Priya to sit in the backseat with the girls and load the wood into the passenger seat. We still had about an hour to drive but we didn’t see any other way. Eventually we fit it all in and were off, bits of branches poking all of us here and there but it was generally manageable.

Immediately after entering the Conservancy, animals were abundant. Before long we spotted a dead wildebeest on the side of the road. As we slowed we saw three more and loads of vultures poking at the dead meat. We scanned to see if there was a lion or some other predator in the vicinity. After seeing nothing, we carried on. Later we learned at this time of year, during the Migration, animals are so plentiful that well-fed lions will sometimes kill more than they can eat. They will use the opportunity to teach their young how to kill, often without consuming the meat. According to one of the rangers, that’s likely what we witnessed. 

We then arrived at the gate of the Mara Triangle, which is essentially the core of the Mara. The Triangle is the southwestern one-third of the National Reserve. It was here that we needed to pay for the entry, the campsite and a few other miscellaneous things. But it took forever. They have some serious process issues. Just to enter took us about an hour. I was thinking that in busy times it would be even more of a nightmare. If you’re capable of processing two families in one hour, how would you manage the hundreds of people during a normal peak season?

While waiting, we obviously had time to walk around a bit. I’d never entered through this gate, located just as you cross a bridge over the Mara River. It was quickly apparent that there was a bit of a stench coming from the river. I walked halfway across and looking down you could see the source. Dead, bloated wildebeest were hung up on the rocks, byproducts of the Migration – animals who were unsuccessful in attempting to cross upriver to the north.

overlooking the Mara River, and hippos

At long last, we were escorted by a ranger to our campsite which ended up being relatively close to the ranger station. Quite quickly we realized that it was going to be a pretty amazing location. The site bordered the river, overlooking the hippo pools and a crocodile sunning on a rock. Across the way there were a few giraffes nibbling on acacia trees and a few gazelles grazing on some grass. During the time that we would be there, we would have all sorts of animals grazing nearby.

In case you think this was a special protected area, it wasn’t. It wasn’t even a campground. We never saw any other campers. No latrines. No water. No designated fire pit. It was just a site where we were allowed to pitch our tents. We were told that we would have two armed guards during the night and that we couldn’t move on foot beyond 25 meters from the site. I’ve camped in the wild in the past but nothing quite like this. It was camping unlike anything I’d done before.

 * * *

After scoping out the site and identifying the tent sites, we began to erect our new purchase. Quite quickly we realized that our instructions made Ikea plans seem genius. I’ve set up a lot of tents in my day but these instructions were by far the worst I’d ever seen. Eventually we tossed them aside and muddled through based on our instincts. Not long before dark the tent was up. I have to say, over the next few days it proved to be probably the best tent I’ve ever owned, particularly for a group of four.

We made a fire and had dinner. The kids had smores and eventually were off to bed. Our girls have a habit of sleeping poorly when in a new environment. This night would be no different. Even for me it was a bit unsettling to hear the soundtrack of the various night sounds. The hippos were the loudest given how close they were. We were told that these nocturnal herbivores would not come out near us due to the steep riverbank but fresh, muddy hippo prints the next morning would prove otherwise. I experienced hippos at a tented camp in Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania back in 2005 so I knew something about camping around them. During the night they would tromp through the tented area and as long as you stayed inside you were fine. They were so close to us their fat bellies would rub against the sides of the tent. Admittedly I didn’t sleep well that first night there either but eventually you realize that they are more interested in grazing all night and not in disturbing the tents.

The other concern is the crocodiles, particularly since they are carnivores. Hippos will kill you (if they feel threatened) but they won’t eat you. Crocs will do both (even if they don’t feel threatened). And I know someone who was killed by one about ten years ago. However the crocodiles that we saw seemed to be quite well fed from the migratory river crossing of wildebeest and likely wouldn’t need to bother coming all the way up to where we were.

But soon after crawling into our sleeping bags on our first night in the Mara we began to hear other animals – some closer and some farther; some I recognized, some I didn’t. Among the first sounds were hyenas. Though they have a variety of vocalizations, they do have a recognizable bark that I was familiar with. Then came the sound of the lions. They also make a variety of sounds but most of the time it’s not like the MGM lion. What you hear at night is more of a cross between a howl and growl. I’ve heard it a few times before though I’ve never heard it through a thin-walled tent.

On two different nights we heard a deep growl very close to the tent, likely a hyena. Admittedly it sent chills down my spine. 

* * *

Day 2: Lions, a Bull & Hoping for a Crossing

In the morning we headed out fairly early on a game drive. The ranger guided us for a couple hours on that first day but thereafter we were on our own. He proved to be helpful in that short time that he was our front vehicle. We were face to face with a female lion within the first few minutes of leaving our campsite. I was thinking that this cat may have been one that was keeping me up during the night.

 

We had a wonderful morning seeing all kinds of animals, including a couple of male lions. Probably the tensest moment of the day was an encounter with a somewhat aggressive bull elephant. We were the front vehicle at this point and I saw an elephant about a kilometer off in the distance heading in our direction. Having done this quite a bit, I recognized that he seemed to have a bit of a swagger. Often this can mean that they’re in the mood for love and that can make them interesting (aggressive, kicking up dust, etc.). But you need to be careful since they can be dangerous. I pulled over, shut off the engine and we watched him approach at about two o’clock (direction; possibly the time as well). Our friends had pulled in behind us and two other vehicles coming from the other direction had stopped to watch as well.

coming right at us

Sure enough, the elephant kept coming in our direction. I started filming with my phone as he got close. I shifted the phone to my left hand so I could have my right hand on the ignition in case we needed to pull away quickly. But I didn’t want to restart the engine so as not to startle him as he approached. The general rule of thumb is that you stay put, nothing sticking out the windows, and you’ll be fine.

a bit close - but the video is pretty cool

 

Nonetheless, it was a bit scary as he came right at us – within a few feet of the vehicle. Then it turned slightly and walked parallel to us. I continued filming, breathing a bit more easily as he made his way behind us.

sigh

When he was well past us, one of the safari vehicles facing us pulled up alongside our vehicle. The guide asked if the incident had frightened us (confirmation that it’s something worthy of anxiety). I said it did a little but I felt we’d handled it as we should have, reducing the chances of being rammed by his head and tusks. Sounded like they enjoyed watching it come at us as much as we did.

The issue is that the bull was experiencing a condition called “musth” (interestingly, the word comes from Urdu meaning “drunk”). Even though it’s been well-studied, there are a lot of things that people don’t understand about it. It’s often linked to reproductive arousal or a natural need to dominate other males, possibly both, but the bottom line is that the bulls tend to be aggressive and rather nasty. Testosterone levels in an elephant in musth can be up to 60 times greater than normal. One indication of the condition is the secretion a thick fluid from ducts on the side of the head (see the second photo above). Obviously I couldn’t see this when I saw the elephant from a distance but what made me think it might be in musth was the fact that it was alone and walking in a way that seemed to be more agitated than normal. There are apparently loads of cases of rogue elephants in musth randomly attacking villages or goring and killing other animals without provocation so it’s not to be taken lightly.

We had had a similar tense moment in Amboseli. On that occasion the bull elephant moved between our two vehicles. He was far angrier than this Mara bull and he came bolting towards Kinaya and me who were in the trail vehicle. I had to throw it into reverse and quickly back up about a hundred meters or so until he stopped moving in our direction. They do this deep rumbling noise when in musth and we just sat there in the vehicle watching and listening as he blocked the road. Eventually we won the stare-down and he slowly wandered on.  It’s a thrill to see them like this, kicking up dust and acting a bit crazy, but you really need to watch what you’re doing.

 * * *

Eventually we were able to return to the campsite for lunch. We were pretty impressed with our first half day. We’d been to the Mara a couple times before but this trip was shaping up to be a rather epic given what we’d seen already. While lunch was being prepared, I wandered over the riverbank to see what the hippos were up to. I happened to catch brawl between two males. Wildebeest were roaming on the other side of the river and some vultures flew overhead. There was so much to see without even leaving the campsite.

The one thing that was on our minds was catching the Migration as it crossed the Mara River. This is an epic event but one that is sometimes rather unpredictable. I’m not sure what I expected, like you’d see this kilometers-long train of animals constantly moving to the river and you show up when you’re ready to see it. In fact it’s a bit more sporadic than that. There are several herds that move around, some move more obviously in the direction of the river, but not always. When we went to one of the more prominent crossing locations (where the banks of the river were sloped gradually enough for them to navigate the descent as well as the ascent on the other side), we caught the animals as they seemed to be mobilizing to cross. There’s this big moment of indecision and you can sense the tension. A few inch closer to the water, then back up. Then others inch forward. On this occasion they likely saw what we saw – a crocodile hanging out in the water awaiting them. In the end they opted out. They did an about-face and began to wander casually in the other direction. We, and about a dozen other safari vehicles loaded with people, were obviously disappointed. However we would find out that this is rather common. Guides do their best to anticipate when there might be crossing but you’ll go for a couple days and there won’t be any. Some days there are multiple crossings at different locations.

topi & wildebeest in a moment of indecision

It’s tough to find that balance between sitting there for long periods of time watching them think it over, not knowing whether or not they’ll go for it, versus spending your time driving around looking at all the other amazing things that there are to see. Clearly, the Great Migration is an incredible phenomenon. But as I look at it now, it’s about much more than just the river crossing. Yes, it’s a crazy, interesting moment in the Migration but it’s just one piece of it. One thing I found rather stunning was seeing the thousands upon thousands of animals, mostly wildebeest but also topi and zebras, spread out across the savanna as far as the eye could see. I also found the drama at the riverbank, crossing or no crossing, to be fascinating – nature mysteriously pushing them to put themselves at risk to move to greener pastures. Somehow they know that their survival depends on them inevitably moving on. Sometimes you have the “brave coward” who is the first to decide that it’s not going to happen. He commits to the U-turn and others follow. Other times you have momentum going, wildebeest charging at a gallop that push and sometimes trample those toward the front to the point that some end up being pushed into the water whether they are ready or not.

On this occasion, however, we saw no crossing. We would have to try our luck another time. So we continued on, eventually doing a loop that would take us around the full Triangle. It was a lot of driving but it gave us a nice perspective of the full Masai Mara. Throughout the drive I allowed the girls to sit on my lap and steer, sometimes for many kilometers. It’s a great and safe way for them to practice their skills (and keep a 7 and 9-year-old occupied).

famous fig tree

As evening approached, I was looking forward to retreating to the tent early. I hadn’t slept well the night before and I was confident that I would power sleep through this night, noise or no noise. I did hope to be awake for a while, though, when the savanna comes alive. Once we were all in our sleeping bags the darkness didn’t disappoint. Very soon the hyenas, lions and who knows what began making their trademark sounds.

* * *

king of the jungle

 

Day 3: Game Drive, Serena & Another Crossing Attempt

The next day was similar in some ways to day 1 in the sense that we saw lions early in the day (three males) and we had an enjoyable yet failed attempt to see the Migration cross the river. We all shared the same hope that we’d get to see it at some point but at the same time we did need to accept that it might not happen. We kept inquiring of various safari guides and people we would encounter along the way. Everyone seemed to have an opinion as to when/if a crossing would happen and it was fascinating to see how varied these opinions were. Some told us confidently that it would happen at this time or on this day. Others said that it wouldn’t happen again for another couple days. It was even hard to triangulate information given how varied it was. So again, the idea was to balance time spent at crossing locations and time exploring elsewhere.

looking out across the Mara

With the weather being rather warm and dusty, we decided to take a break and go to the Serena, a hotel on an escarpment overlooking a vast area of the Mara. Our cool boxes were losing their cool and a cold drink sounded heavenly. The view up there is beautiful. As I saw the swimming pool, there was a part of me that thought it would be nice to do a deluxe safari like this at some point. But the camping experience we were having, being so embedded in this amazing natural environment, was without parallel. It’s high on my list of all-time wonderful travel experiences.

After the Serena we drove back one more time try to catch a crossing of the river. The number of wildebeest had increased significantly. Some were moving in the direction of the likely crossing point. The animals seemed to be primed to go. The tension was there but in the end it didn’t happen. They once again moved away from the banks of the river and all indication was that nothing would happen on this occasion either. There seemed to be a consensus that we should try again first thing in the morning. So off we went back to the campsite.

That evening a large herd of wildebeest was grazing adjacent to our camp. I stood and watched, as close as I could without disturbing them, as the sun gradually set. Sunrise and sunset have always been my two favorite times of the day, but in the African savanna it’s pretty magical.

 

* * *

Day 4: More Lions & a Final Crossing Attempt

provided us another opportunity to see lions in the morning. I don’t ever get tired of seeing lions in the wild. They’re such powerful and beautiful creatures. 

While we were in Amboseli, at one point Kinaya saw a shooting star and made a wish. She didn’t tell us what it was for fear that would make it not come true. As we were leaving the park we noticed that she was shedding tears. When we asked her what was wrong she said it was that she had wished to see a cheetah and it didn’t happen. It was so sad. We tried to tell her that it’s very rare to see a cheetah and many people have been on safari many times and never seen one. Nonetheless, I thought about that while in the Mara and was quietly hoping that we could tick that box for her. The problem was that rangers said they hadn’t seen any for a very long time and the chances weren’t that great. 

* * *

We eventually made our way to a potential Migration crossing point to try again to catch this once-in-a-lifetime event. Like the cheetah, we were prepared to accept that this wouldn’t happen. This was our last full day in the Mara and we were running out of time. And I wasn’t going to spend the entire day sitting there and waiting for it.

waiting and watching

We went to a location near the river where we’d been before, shut off our engines and sat once again. There were several hundred wildebeest, zebras and topi gathered near the riverbank but we knew that this was no indication that they would necessarily take the plunge this morning. However we did see hundreds more wildebeest snaking their way towards this herd by the river and the numbers kept increasing. I was wondering if this influx of new wildebeest might put additional pressure on them to bolt – energy pouring into the herd that might take them to the tipping point. 

finally, the crossing, under the watchful eyes of the hippos

After about twenty minutes sitting there, enjoying the warm, sunny morning, I began to see the first splashes in the water. Finally, a crossing was underway. Admittedly, it was quite exciting. Our cameras were filming and clicking. We were a certain distance away so the zooms and binoculars were quite helpful to see some of the detail. After about 20 minutes of watching from our vantage point, I decided to move closer. You can’t drive through the herd (or disturb them in any way) so we had to wait until the herd on our side of the river had vacated and cleared the area where the road was. 

I inched forward as close as I could and then stopped again. From here we could see the animals much more closely, both on our side but also on the other side of the river, drenched and galloping up the bank after successfully avoiding the crocs. Mission accomplished for them. Mission accomplished for us.

on to greener pastures

After finally witnessing the thrill of a Mara River crossing of the Great Migration, we still thought we might be able catch a crossing at another location on the river. Off we went, as did other safari vehicles. At the new location it was the similar drill. Though the animals gathered in earnest, in the end it didn’t happen. Satisfied with having seen the crossing, and feeling some pangs of hunger, we eventually decided to return to camp. This would allow us to have lunch and rest. We’d been going pretty hard for three days and it was nice to settle in for a bit. The sun was hot and, being near the equator, was directly overhead. Shade was in short supply so I headed towards the banks of the river and found a spot directly under a tree. The croc and hippos were strangely active for this time of day and it was nice to have a game drive without the drive.

happy to get this shot

 

* * *

Day 5: Breaking Camp & Heading Home, with a Surprise

The next day, after four nights in the Mara, we broke camp. It took a while given that we’d had a pretty elaborate set-up. As sad as it was to leave such a pristine location, we all desperately needed showers and we could still look forward to about an hour’s drive within the park on our way towards home. It wasn’t completely over yet.

After cramming everything in the vehicles, off we went. A little over a half-hour into the drive we saw some safari vehicles stopped by the side of the road. As usual, it generally means that there is something to see. It did cross my mind that this would further delay our arrival at home and, after all we’d already seen, I thought that this had better be good or we’ll just move on. But it was indeed good.

mom and the kids

Though we hadn’t seen anything yet, a guy from another vehicle told us that there was a cheetah and her cubs. Of course our hearts started racing. No way in hell I wanted to miss this. Cheetahs? Way outside the Triangle? I quickly turned the vehicle around and found a side “road” that would take us closer. Sure enough, a beautiful mama cheetah and her cubs were sitting in the shade of a bush. We sat and watched for about a half hour.

 

I’ve often said the cheetah is my favorite animal and there is nothing like seeing one in the wild. It’s such a beautiful creature and a thrilling way to end the safari. I turned to look at a smiling Kinaya as she saw her wish come true at “beyond the eleventh hour” of the safari. I guess we’re thankful for that shooting star 😊.

Diani

We returned from Amboseli on a Sunday. I returned to work the next day, albeit at home of course. During this time we had an invitation to join another family who was vacationing on the coast. But we needed to await the announcement from the government as to whether or not we would be re-locked down in Nairobi during August or whether we could at least move about the country. International travel still seems to be a ways off.

Thus my ability to plan my leave from work was hampered by the fact that it was hard to predict when things might be loosened up and for how long. I have to use my vacation days before the end of September so time is running out. We cannot carry vacation days over from one fiscal year to the next so I'll need to take it, regardless of whether or not I can leave the city.

After a couple of delays, the announcement finally was communicated and the lifting of restrictions was renewed for the month. We quickly booked some tickets to go to Diani on the Indian Ocean coast to join friends who had rented a house for a couple weeks. By Thursday we were off.

Given that I didn’t have the opportunity to request time off (and arrange for the coverage of my duties), I would need to continue working while on the coast. It’s the advantage of work from “home” that I could do this but it would mean many hours on a computer while longingly looking at everyone else enjoying the beach. At least I had a stunning view.

This would be the first flight we took during the pandemic. It was an interesting experience and, at least for me, it felt less risky than I was expecting. In Nairobi, masks are more or less the norm. Few people are not wearing them, at least in the heart of the city (masks seem to be worn less the farther you move towards the countryside). For air travel, surgical masks were required and were worn by all the staff at the small, internal flight terminal. We had to walk through a disinfectant “shower”, apply hand sanitizer two or three times, and maintain a physical distance from staff and other travelers. Otherwise the experience was strangely normal. We had time for lunch before being called to board and an hour and a half later we were on the coast.

As we arrived at the tiny terminal in Diani it was raining. We hadn’t really prepared for it but it really didn’t matter. A bit of rain in a warm climate is not a big deal, particularly if you’re on holiday. In any case, it didn't last long and most of the time that we  were there it was sunny. In the fifteen years I’ve spent in East Africa, I have never been here this time of year since we are normally traveling outside the country. This is “winter” just south of the equator and that means that the muggy, hot coast was rather comfortable.

The other first for us was the length of time that we would be there. Normally we would stay for about three nights. On this occasion, we would stay for eight. It was fantastic to be able to settle in and not do the “hurried relaxation”. Due to work, I didn’t get the reading time that I wanted but I still was more or less able to be engaged with the family and take some time to enjoy the coast.

We stayed in a house that had about five bedrooms, a pool, internet and was sitting directly on the beach. The other family had arranged for a cook who would do some of the shopping and prepare the meals. By the way, the guy was amazing. In addition to being a super nice guy, he made some amazing meals. We joked about seeing if he was interested in coming back to Nairobi with us. We had fresh fish a few times as well as local Swahili cuisine. I have to say, that was a trip highlight for me.

The pool was not huge but clean. The kids alternated between playing on the beach and in the pool. There were other kids around so that made it easier to keep them entertained. I did early morning runs on the beach followed by a swim in the cool ocean. There were quite a few hawkers on the beach selling bracelets, fabric, carvings, boat trips, etc. I actually felt sorry for them given that tourism has obviously been almost non-existent. Many of them looked rather desperate. We bought a few things but, other than some fresh coconuts, we normally don’t buy much. It’s a bit different for us than it is for someone who’s visiting for the first time or who comes rarely to East Africa. You can only buy so much of that stuff.

Maintaining pandemic protocols was relatively easy given that the beaches were more or less empty. It was a rare sight to see. Though most places were closed due to the lack of tourists, we did go to a restaurant a couple times. Staff all seemed quite strict about wearing their masks and keeping surfaces disinfected. I suppose they have to or they’ll be shut down. Hopefully, once international flights open up, people will begin to trickle back. The sad part is that it may not be until the northern hemisphere “summer” holidays are over. What would normally be peak season will have passed.

We were analyzing the pros and cons of this sort of arrangement. Being in an all-inclusive hotel is nice since you don’t need to worry about thinking through and buying stuff for all the meals, drinks, etc. In a hotel you just show up and eat. For those of us with kids, a hotel usually offers more potential kids for your children to play with. And, where we have stayed, they have staff who do activities with them (giving parents some down time).

The downside to a hotel is that you have less space. Less autonomy/privacy. Less choice of what you eat. There’s less incentive to try out a restaurant since meals are included in the all-inclusive room cost.

So it’s hard to say what we’ll do next time. I’m cool with either.

 

As I mentioned, it was a rare time to be in such a beautiful place this time of year – a quick flight from home – and not be surrounded by tourists. It’s sad not to be with family like we ordinarily would during this time but this is not a bad second best.