Mogadishu

After a few days in Nairobi, reconnecting with family and work, I would spend the better part of the following two weeks in Somalia. There was a lot going on and I needed to be present.

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One event I wanted to attend was the National Day of Sweden (Nationaldagen) taking place outside the secure “green zone” of the airport compound. It was only about 100 meters away, but it was a powerful statement. They said it was the first time they have ever held Nationaldagen in Somalia. It’s a promising development. To pull something like this off given the volatility of the security situation in Mogadishu is no small feat. I’m hopeful that this continues a trend to reduce the “bunkering” of the international community in Somalia. Non-governmental organizations, like ours and others, have been leading the way pushing the envelope as to what is possible. The UN and diplomatic missions have been lagging behind, but changes are happening. IF the country is ever going to function as other countries do, the international community needs to come out of its shell. It’s not that there is no risk. There certainly is. But there needs to be an effort to prudently challenge the status quo in order to move things forward.

Having the event outside was more than just symbolic in that, it had a practical side. For those of us residing outside the complex security of the “green zone”, it made access much easier. It’s not that there weren’t stringent security measures. I arrived quite early and it still took me about 20 minutes to go through all the ID checks, vehicles checks, metal detector plus wand, etc.

Once inside, the place was crawling with thick-necked security guys. The important people all came with their own security detail so they ended up being a significant percentage of the attendees. Most seem to go for a similar look. Usually the head is shaved or the hair is cropped close to the scalp. They’re generally well-muscled, generously tattooed and sporting sunglasses. I’m not sure if they’re really tough but they certainly look the part.

Another thing I should mention is the whole suit in the tropics thing. I thought I was going to pass out due to the heat. It made me think back to my days in Dar es Salaam where I attended formal functions in the sweltering heat. It's torture. I know in some countries, short-sleeve jackets are acceptable or short trousers. Not in East Africa.

not from Sweden's national day; just tea with colleagues one evening

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By the way, Nationaldagen commemorates the adoption of a new constitution in Sweden in 1809, which transformed the country into a constitutional monarchy. It also marks the election of Gustav Vasa as King of Sweden in 1523, a significant step for consolidating the country's status as an independent state. Now you know.

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Also during this visit was World Environment Day. I doubt most of those reading this spent much time commemorating this day (June 5). Nonetheless, the concerns facing countries like Somalia are very real. This year’s theme was reducing plastics. For anyone that has driven long distances in Somalia, you can’t avoid seeing the trees laden with discarded plastic bags, permanently lodged in the branches after driven by the country’s powerful winds. With the variety of colors, I can’t help but connecting the visual to Christmas trees. But not in a good way.

who says plastic bags don't grow on trees

For now the country has yet to ban plastic bags, even though its neighbor in Kenya has done so successfully. Strangely, Al-Shebab announced a ban for the territory that it covers in 2018. It’s a bad look when a militant Islamist group is more progressive than you are (I'm also talking to you, America).

a goat munching on a freshly-planted, World Environment Day tree (as seen through a bullet-proof window)