Paris 2 - Camps Elysée-Arc de Triomphe-Louvre

(still catching up)

We took our time waking up on day 2. We’d had a big first day and some of us needed to catch up on some sleep.

My plan for the day was to take the metro to the Champs Elysée, continue on to the Arc de Triomphe, over to the Eiffel Tower, circle back past the Louvre and eventually back towards our B&B. It was ambitious and I figured that we could take public transportation as needed in case we tired of walking. But that was the plan.

 

Champs Elysée

We emerged from the metro a midpoint along one of the world’s most famous streets. The sun was shining. The weather was perfect. The Arc de Triomphe, just up the street from us, loomed large in the morning sun. It was a fantastic day, at least for now, to walk around the city. Crowds unfortunately were rather thick. For one, it was a Sunday and the weekend will naturally draw hordes of people to the main sites of Paris. Secondly, it was the first weekend of the school break. Our girls are on the same calendar as the children in France so our break was their break. And thirdly, of course, it was one of the first warm days of spring. Having spent a decade experiencing Europe's gray winters, I keenly remember the sensation of the first warm, sunny days.

We made our way towards the massive arch and spent some time taking in all the scenery. With the broad Champs Elysée connecting to the massive roundabout circling the Arc de Triomphe, large crowds, etc., it's quite the setting. 

Arc de Triomphe 

The Arc de Triomphe is one of the most famous monuments of France, and possibly the world. It was built in the early 1800s to honor those who fought and died during the French Revolution and the Napoleonic wars. It was commissioned in 1806 by Napoleon when he was at the height of his wealth and power. He had been on a bit of a roll as he waged war around Europe and possibly thought there was no end in sight for his successes. Sadly for him, he and his army began to run out of steam. After a disastrous invasion of Russia and a subsequent thumping by Prussia and Austria, Paris would fall and Napoleon would eventually abdicate the throne for good in 1815. What a difference ten years makes. After a few years of living in exile on an English island, and in declining health, he died in 1821, long before the 1836 inauguration of his famous arch. But his relationship with the Arc was not finished.

Interestingly, in 1840 Louis Philippe I obtained permission from the British government to repatriate Napoleon's remains to France where he was finally given a state funeral. On a cold December afternoon, rather than sitting proudly on his steed, Napoleon's remains would be carried in a horse-drawn hearse through the completed Arc de Triomphe and down the Champs-Elysée.

Eiffel Tower

Eventually we began making our way towards the Eiffel Tower. It’s not too far but it did add another stretch of walking. We could have sorted out some public transportation to get there but it was such a nice day that I didn’t feel it was worth it.

As we entered Trocadero Square (Place du Trocadéro), not quite in view of the tower, I thought back to when my parents came to Europe the first time in the late 1980s. I had picked them up at the airport in my little Renault 5. We made our way straight to this neighborhood (finding a parking spot was a bit easier back then). We took this same walk to the square, up the steps and suddenly the tower appeared in the distance. It’s a wonderful site, even eliciting a tear in my mother’s eye as my parents experienced something they never thought they would.

My daughters, on the other hand, likely knew they would get this chance at some point. Their upbringing, far different from that of my parents or me, comes with radically different expectations (something we, as parents, are constantly trying to keep in check). After flying through Europe since they were born, plus years of schooling in the French system, learning about this country and speaking its language, approaching the Eiffel Tower for the first time, while still a thrill, is less of a jolt to the system. Nonetheless, it was fun to see the excitement on their faces. At least until they are teenagers, they still show unbridled enthusiasm for things like this.

After taking in the view, we worked our way down the steps, across the Seine, towards the base of the tower. One thing that struck me as very different from my experiences more than three decades ago was the crowds. Even with the online booking you have nowadays, there was still a massive, winding line to get in. Then there is the security screening. Back in the day, I don’t think they even checked our bags. Now it’s akin to stringent airport security. Understandable, I guess, given the inevitable threats around the world these days. Sad though.

Thankfully, we would not be joining the queue on this day. Our Eiffel Tower reservations were for later in the week (when crowds were significantly diminished). We walked around the gardens near the base of the tower, took a few photos and then stopped at a pizza place for lunch. Our goal was to find something somewhat affordable but with some sort of view of the Tower. Which we did.

"La dame de fer" (French for "Iron Lady"), it was constructed from 1887 to 1889 as the centerpiece of the 1889 World's Fair. It was initially criticized by some of France's leading artists and intellectuals for its design, but has become one of the most recognizable structures in the world. Indeed, it's the most visited monument with an entrance fee in the world.

After lunch, we moved in the direction of the Hotel des Invalides. This was on my list to see but not to visit, at least not on this trip. We only had so much time and this would need to be for another trip. I have visited it in the past, however, and it’s worth a visit.

Hotel des Invalides in the backgound; Pont (bridge) Alexandre III in the foreground

Indeed, the name can prompt questions for English speakers. First of all, it’s not a hotel. Constructed in the late 1600s under the leadership of Louis IV, the main building amazingly still retains its original function as a hospital and hospice for badly injured and disabled war veterans. Thus, the term “invalid” (not an ideal term). Also in this area is the Army Museum which I visited many years ago. Interesting for history/war buffs. Possibly a bit tedious if you're not.

 Place de la Concorde

We walked through the grounds and worked our way back across the Seine towards the Place de la Concorde. It’s hard for me to make my way past the ancient Egyptian obelisk at the center of the square without thinking of the hundreds of Tour de France riders flying by on the cobblestones during the traditional last stage of the three-week race.

Beginning in 1789, the square was a central stage for the events of the French Revolution. The first executions by guillotine in the square took place in 1792. The following year, Louis XVI met his demise followed a few months later by Marie Antoinette. Over a roughly six-year guillotine-fest, well over a thousand people were subjected to beheading just in this square alone (over a thousand took place elsewhere in the city). Supposedly this is where the expression, "heads will roll" comes from.

Thankfully, there was no sign of a guillotine and no executions on this day as we made our way across the square and eventually to the Jardin des Tuileries for some ice cream.

 

Jardin des Tuileries and Louvre

The Tuileries is a large garden adjacent to the Louvre. For hundreds of years, Parisians have celebrated, met, strolled, relaxed and probably did some naughty things in this sizeable green space in the center of Paris. In addition to ice cream, we just strolled and relaxed.

After resting our tired feet, we made our way to the Louvre to walk around and at least get a feel for the exterior. Again, we sadly had to make tough choices as to how we would spend our time and entrance into the Louvre would need to be saved for another time.

From the Louvre, we followed the river back past the Notre Dame, past the Bastille and to our B&B. It was a long day of walking but good to take a load off the feet, have tea and relax.