England - Part 2

As usual, the problem with writing about vacation is finding time to do so until it’s over, particularly the way we do vacation. Anyway, I still need to record what we did even though time has passed. So, back to July.

 Our time in the UK didn’t end up providing us much down time. Someday I sincerely hope that it changes. Time to read a book. Watch a movie. Put a puzzle together. Something besides, flying, driving, planning logistics, running errands, etc. We return from vacation far more tired than went we departed.

 

Frozen

A great birthday gift the girls received from their auntie and uncle in the UK was a theatre experience in the West End. London’s West End theatre district, along with New York City's Broadway, is usually considered to represent the highest level of theatre in the English-speaking world. There are 39 theatres and we watched Frozen in the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, the oldest theatre in London dating back 1663. While it would be cool to say we watched a play in a building that old, the current building dates back to 1812. Still quite old.

The theatre itself is beautiful and part of the overall experience. Dozens upon dozens of girls in Elsa and/or Ana outfits. High tea in the restaurant adjacent to the foyer. An expensive treat for little kids who would probably just as well be powering through a Crispy Cream doughnut.

We made our way to our seats in the balcony section. The exquisite theatre setting was contrasted by the Disney-esque audience noisily getting settled. Booster seats provided by request.

I was trying to guess how many theatrical performances I’ve seen in my life (not counting school plays…). More than I originally thought. Most of what I have seen was during my ten years in Europe other than Shakespeare festivals while in the US. We’ve even seen a couple of plays in Nairobi. I would like to do it more, particularly since I have a daughter who aspires to be an actress.

Avid, highbrow theatre goers would likely have a hard time praising a musical that was primarily crafted for children, regardless of the quality of the production. I am neither avid nor highbrow so I am free to judge the experience without pretentiousness. And I thought it was great. It’s not so much the story (though I do enjoy the fact that the male characters play minor roles and the twist at the end which thumbs its nose at the tired romance theme). But the performances were amazing and the sets/special effects were stunning. I saw many with tears at times (grown-ups). It could be that people were more moved to be in a theatre “post”-pandemic, possible making the experience more intense. Certainly not something to take for granted.

 

Chartwell

I love old buildings, mansions, castles (as I mentioned in the previous blog entry). I say so somewhat apologetically given the amount of slavery and abuse that led to their creation and maintenance over the centuries. Growing up in the US, the first castle I ever saw was in Disneyland. Rather pathetic.

Old architecture is rare in America. The oldest castle in the US dates back to the late 17 century (which is older than I would have guessed) but there are relatively few castles overall. It wasn’t until I moved to Europe in the late 1980s that I began my fascination with old architecture. I spent two summers as a tour guide in Europe and I took it upon myself to learn about the various architectural styles over the centuries. I would pop in to random old churches while driving along the European countryside. Admittedly they looked and smelled similar. Usually quite musty. But often, when traveling by myself, I would go in (they were generally unlocked) and just sit. Sometimes read a book, write or just hang out.

Chartwell is the former house of Winston Churchill. The origins of the estate go back to the 14^th century but Churchill didn’t purchase the place until 1922. The property sits in the Kent countryside in southeastern England.

part of a play area that was actually a crater left by a WWII mortar blast

Much of my fascination with the place has to do with the history that took place therein. Chartwell’s visitors were among the most significant names in 20th century history. Albert Einstein, Charlie Chaplin, the Queen Mother, Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier, etc. In the 1930s, when Churchill was out of political office, Chartwell became the center of his world. At his dining table, he gathered those who could assist his campaign against the rise of Nazism and German re-armament. In his study, he composed some of his most famous speeches and wrote books; in his garden, he built walls, constructed lakes and painted.

Churchill's painting space, complete with cigar and glass of whisky

Churchill’s painting studio was interesting. His works cover the walls and the place where he painted, complete with a tumbler for his brandy and what appears to be a partially chewed cigar, give you the impression that he would be returning at any moment to pick up where he left off. The paintings themselves reveal a great deal about the man who was arguably one of the most notable figures of the 20^th century.

Oxford

Continuing the theme of old buildings, my sister- and mother-in-law made a trek to Oxford for the better part of a day. Liz had booked a tour which was how we spent the better part of our time while we were there. They also had a couple of friends from their time in India who lived there so we met up with them in an old bookshop and had a coffee together.

This was my first time to Oxford. I visited Cambridge many years ago but never Oxford. Both places are steeped in history though the latter can make the claim as being the oldest university in the English-speaking world, with evidence of teaching going back to the 11^th century.

Cambridge is actually an offshoot of Oxford, starting in the 13^th century. Still ancient, but less so. During the tour, the guide never mentioned Cambridge by name, rather referring to it as the other university.

Wadham chapel

interesting architecture

Given that it was summer, it was teeming with tourists. I suppose when school is in session, you might get more of the feel of academia. I should say that on the train to Oxford, across from me sat two men who were debating some scientific topic, occasionally defending their points on a notepad on the fold-down table in front of them. It’s the kind of thing you would think you would see on a train to Oxford but then think no, that would be too cliché.

well-centered pigeon, if I may say

The university is made up of thirty-nine semi-autonomous constituent colleges. A total of 69 Nobel prize-winners have studied or taught at Oxford, with prizes won in all six categories. It has educated a wide range of notable alumni, including 28 prime ministers of the United Kingdom and many heads of state and government around the world. And my favorite Oxonian, Mr. Bean (Rowan Atkinson).

We were able to visit one of the colleges, Wadham, which apparently isn’t that easy to do on your own. Because we were on a tour, it was possible. It was cool to get a taste of the Oxford experience and sort of makes you think that it’s something you should aspire to. Which I never did. I wasn’t very bookish until I moved to Europe, well after my less-than-inspiring undergraduate experience.

 

Harry Potter

It’s quite clear that our activities in England were varied in nature. It’s something that comes naturally when you’re traveling with children. One day Oxford. The next Harry Potter. Hever Castle. Then Frozen. As I mentioned when I discussed Frozen, there was far most sophistication to our chosen children’s activities than one would think.

By Harry Potter, I mean the Warner Bros. Studio outside of London where the movies were made. The facility itself has an interesting history. In fact the studio is in the former Leavesden Aerodrome, a British airfield created in 1940 in the tiny village of Leavesden, between Watford and Abbots Langley, in Hertfordshire. It was an important center for aircraft production during World War II. By the end of the war Leavesden Airfield was, by volume, the largest factory in the world. After the war, however, the facility changed hands multiple times (including hosting Rolls Royce) and eventually fell into disrepair. In 1994 it was purchased for the filming of the James Bond moving Golden Eye. From there it served as the studio for several blockbuster films before the Harry Potter movies which began in 1999, the most successful movie series in cinema history.

the main hall

interactive green screen area

The tour is, in fact, a walking visit of the studios where the films were made. It’s pretty amazing, whether you’re a Potter fan or not. We’ve gone through all the books as a family, and most of the movies, and it certainly makes it more interesting if you have. But the technology behind the films is impressive. Robotics. The masks. Green screen. The sets. Etc. All of it is there and much of it is interactive, including the green screen where you can experience how it works.

impressive artwork that went into the sets

The one thing that I thought early on is that it might be a massive spoiler for fans, primarily kids. By showing the sets, the technology behind the animation, etc., I wondered whether it would take away some of the wonder that the movies inspired. Our children first and foremost were caught up in the fascination of the books. The movies came much later. But between the two, it inspired hours and hours of their playtime as they took on roles of characters and imagined themselves in that world. By pulling back the curtain on the creative force behind the films, I wondered if it would not only serve to demystify the stories.

cool masks

amazing effort put into the sets

other than the masks/animation, this was my favorite - complete with animated dragon destroying the above bank (two separate sets obviously)

After the self-paced, interactive walking tour, which is particularly well done by the way, we spent some time chatting with the kids about the experience and whether or not that aspect disappointed them. Though they agreed that it was the case to some degree, they also said that it amplified their fascination in other ways. They seem to have a deeper understanding than I gave them credit for of that line of distinction between reality and that the need to willfully suspend one’s rational thoughts in order to enthusiastically take part in a shared imagination. Because make believe worlds are a part of their daily lives (for now), and they regularly need to flip back and forth (ex. when disrupted by the need to come to dinner), they’re much better at it than adults are. One other positive aspect was that Kiran said that she liked the fact that it made some of the scary parts less scary. So overall, not much harm was done to the “magic” of the stories.

The one reality that was inescapable was leaving the air-conditioned studios and heading out into the sweltering temperatures of London. In fact, that day (July 19) temperatures reached a new UK record of 40 degrees centigrade (104 F).

 

Sky Garden

I tend not to like traveling to tourist destinations during peak seasons. Sometimes it’s unavoidable and you just need to throw yourself into it and deal with it. There are some things you can do to mitigate it by attempting to be in tourist areas at non-peak times of the day or days of the week. In a place like London, you can compound the problem by combining rush hour with peak tourism and then throw in record temperatures to make it rather miserable.

There were a few times that I thought we could have done things differently in retrospect but generally speaking, I think we navigated it pretty well. One thing we learned is that public transportation in non-peak hours is cheaper. And, trains are a bit less crowded.

Such was the case when we visited the Sky Garden. This is a relatively new attraction (since 2017) located at the top of a skyscraper in the historic City of London. The building where the Garden is located has been nicknamed “the Walkie-Talkie” given that its shape is similar to a two-way radio handset.

the Chard

the Tower of London

The Sky Garden is a large, free, public viewing space complete with lush gardens and a couple of cafes. It offers stunning views of the city, looking almost straight down at the Thames, the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, etc. The queues to access the lift to the top (36-38^th floors) are generally long but, generally speaking, I think it’s worth the wait. The views are stunning. We were up there on a clear day which helped. Unfortunately, we had to keep the visit short. Otherwise, I think I would have been quite happy to sit and enjoy and overpriced drink overlooking one of my favorite cities.