Naivasha

A few weeks ago we went camping. Rainy season can be a tricky time to try to camp but, with the exception of a short rain during one of the nights, we came out unscathed.

camp is set

The country was in lockdown which meant that travel within the country was limited. Our girls were on school break and, before the lockdown was announced, we had planned on going to the coast. But the restrictions meant that we had to stay within the vicinity of Nairobi. While this was broadly defined, meaning you could travel a bit, it prevented us from considering any beaches and most of the national parks in the country.

sunrise from the campsite

As such, we opted on exploring closer to home. Lake Naivasha is a couple hours away but within the restricted travel area. We had camped there before, and enjoyed it, so we thought that it might be a good backup plan. We coordinated the trip with another family (always good when you have kids similar in age) and headed out for a three-night trip.

looking from Crater Lake towards Lake Naivasha and Mt. Longonot

The drive is not long but Kenya’s going a bit crazy with road construction these days. Nairobi has a long-standing reputation for being a driver’s nightmare. As with many cities, evolution of roads seems to have happened without much thought. There are a few streams going through the city that serve as geographical obstacles and force traffic to be funneled through a limited number of arteries. Rapid economic growth has permitted a larger number of people to own vehicles. Construction of large buildings is approved without corresponding improvements in infrastructure.

small army of kids

Included in these belated road enhancements is the building of an elevated, limited access highway that bisects the heart of the city. It’s a massive and endless construction site that is making a bad situation far worse. And the jury is out as to whether or not it will have any long-term positive impact on Nairobi traffic. It’s supposed to be a toll highway which means that the rich will rapidly move about the city while the poor and middle class will suffocate in noxious fumes in the snarled traffic below. A light rail train would have been the preferred investment but that tends to benefit the poor (and the environment), which doesn’t seem to be a priority.

colobus monkeys

We were eventually clear of Nairobi and it felt good to get out. Given that we live in the middle of the city, by the time we reached the end of the urban sprawl, we were halfway to our destination. Soon thereafter, unfortunately, we came to a standstill as we came upon an accident blocking the highway. Nairobi highways are notoriously dangerous. People go to great lengths to pass slower vehicles and it often doesn’t end well. Eventually we were able to get through but the carnage was sobering, including at least one casualty. We did our best to distract the girls from seeing it and I think we were only partially successful.

fish eagle

Prior to arriving at the campground, we stopped to see some friends from Nairobi who had rented a house near the lake. I had no idea where we were going before we arrived and I was surprised to see how stunning the place was. It was sort of an old school, massive property that is supposedly owned by someone in the flower business. They are out of town part of the year and while they’re gone they rent out a couple houses that are on the property (though not their main house). 

tough to leave this and go pitch a tent

It’s pretty amazing. Beautiful pool, stables, tennis court, gym (not open and a bit rundown but probably cool back in the day), sunken trampoline, boats, etc. The owners appear to be crazy rich. But the place is beautiful and tastefully done, sort of like I would have done if I had endless amounts of money 😊. One of the worst things in the world is the selfish rich person. Worse than that is the selfish rich person who has no taste (think Trump). Not the case with these people.

Kinaya taking in the view

After lounging, swimming and enjoying the gorgeous gardens for an hour or two, we were off to camp. Probably not the ideal order to do things. It makes you feel a bit more ho hum about the whole camping thing. But once we arrived, pulled all the stuff out of the car, we quickly shifted into camping mode. Just as it was getting dark, the tents were pitched and everything was in place. We opted against a campfire given that it was late, and the fact that we were having dinner at a fun Italian restaurant less than a hundred meters away. Okay, so we weren’t exactly roughing it.

camp breakfast the easy way

After a nice dinner we made our way back to the campsite. As we were getting ready to crawl into our bags, a hippo made its way near the campsite, loudly chomping on grass. We had camped there before so we know that they tend to do this. But it’s pretty crazy just the same. Here is the deadliest animal in Africa and there’s nothing between us but a tiny, electrified fence, something that he could smash to the ground quite easily. But apparently they just keep to themselves, munching in the dark of night.

The next day we were up early and headed to a place called Crater Lake. I’ve been to the one in the US state of Oregon and this is quite modest in comparison. In fact our plan upon arriving was to join with the two families from the day before and have a trek around the circumference of the lake. With an army of children, it ended up taking us a couple hours. It wasn’t strenuous but, in retrospect, it was rather ambitious for some of the children.

Crater Lake

Crater Lake is, as you might guess, part of what was a highly volcanic area in the Rift Valley area. There are hot springs in the area as well as geothermal power generation. In fact, by the end of the decade, Kenya aims to use this energy to produce over 50% of the country’s total power capacity. And it’s clean.

After the hike, we headed back to the land of the rich to have a swim and cool off. We had aspirations of cooking over the fire that night but we enjoyed the pool longer than anticipated. We shrugged our shoulders and headed back to the Italian restaurant. After getting up early and having a good hike, it seemed that we were all in agreement to take the path of least resistance. Dinner by the fire would have to wait one more day.

family photo with our tall friend

The next day we had a bit slower start. Our plan was to hire a boat/guide, head out across the lake and go to a place called Crescent Island. As you might guess, the island is so named because it also was produced by volcanic activity. Extraordinarily high water, however, has changed Lake Naivasha as well as Crescent Island. In fact the island isn’t always an island given that the last time we were there we drove to it. Now, it’s very much an island and much of the lakeside property is flooded as the lake has grown. More than 500 families have lost their homes as a result of the rising waters. The combination of the pandemic causing a drop in tourism as well as the loss of livelihoods due to the flooding is having a huge economic impact on the area. Glad to spend some money there to make at least a small contribution.

Kinaya alone with the wildebeests

The animals on the island have no predators and so people are allowed to walk around without armed protection (unlike a national park). The variety of wildlife is limited but it’s still so cool to walk around, just hanging out with giraffes, wildebeest, zebras, etc. Much different from being in a safari vehicle. The only problem was that my sneakers had fallen apart the day before as we were completing the hike around the lake (thankfully not before). So on this occasion I resorted to flipflops. It wasn’t ideal but it was all I had. Thankfully it’s more of a casual stroll for a couple hours and nothing strenuous.

waterbuck

It’s such a good thing to do with kids too. It’s rather easy and accessible. No matter how long I spend watching these animals, I never tire of it. Our girls have been going on safaris since they were born and, happily, they’ve grown to love this sort of thing as well. As they get older, and move on with their lives, it does make me wonder how they’ll look back on this rather international childhood, with the safaris and regular trips to play by the Indian Ocean. It’s considerably different from my youth so we sort of make this up as we go. So far, so good I would say. But we’re still only about halfway through our task of raising dependents.

young Thompson's gazelles

That evening we finally stepped up and made dinner around the campfire. We’d had full days so it was nice to finally just hang out and not go anywhere. The kids made s'mores and it was more or less the classic camping experience.

s'mores

hippo passing by the campsite

The next morning we broke camp, albeit slowly. We decided that we would time it so that we could have lunch at a good restaurant on the way and then continue on home by early afternoon, beating some of the Sunday afternoon traffic heading into Nairobi. Mission accomplished.