England - Part 1

I’m on vacation. Finally.

After a few rather challenging months, it was time to take a break. Destination? England. At least to start with.

England has been in the plans for some time for several reasons. One reason was that some close friends of ours were celebrating their 50^th anniversary. There are other reasons as well but that was enough of a starting point for building an itinerary that began in England and take us to a few other destinations thereafter.

our B&B

We took a rare day flight from Nairobi to London. The bulk of the flights going to Europe seem to leave around 11pm or midnight. Some people like that since you can sleep on the plane, arrive in Europe the next morning and you don’t lose a day. I can’t sleep on planes so the day flight was okay with me.

We had arranged a B&B in Croydon near our friends’ house (south of London). We opted against renting (hiring) a car since we would be staying with Priya’s sister and mother and the cost didn’t make sense. Plus, public transportation is good and less expensive in the long run. It takes a lot more planning and consumes more time but, in the end, it was the right call.

local brew with Idaho hops

watching Wimbledon - a must in England

* * *

50^th Anniversary 

The first big event was the anniversary. It took place on an amazing property in the countryside of the southwest (Tonbridge Borough, Kent). It has a large house with some smaller houses that they rent out. Gorgeous.

the Kent countryside

 

 

 

 

 

livin' the dream

 

Admittedly, I knew few people there since my connection to the honorees is a bit tangential, but it was interesting to see how my international life ends up creating connections. One older woman that I spoke to was the daughter of a British soldier who was based in British Somaliland. In fact she was born there. Another guy happened to be close friends of a good friend of ours from when we were living in Burundi (now living in Bristol). Today I met a guy who was giving tours of Winston Churchill’s home (Chartwell) that was born in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania (where I lived for several years), when it was called Tanganyika before independence. His father was friends with the founding president, Nyerere, and remembered standing by the side of the road waving a Tanganyikan flag during the inauguration parade in 1961. Interesting little connection.

Anyway, the event was good fun. The weather was perfect, something that you can’t always count on in the UK. There were loads of things for the kids to do and they had other children to play with. Always a bonus.

girls in the gypsy wagon

The honorees spent much of their lives working in India and that’s the connection to my wife’s family who were there for about three decades. Thankfully, I’ve visited the area where they worked a couple of times and even met them in Delhi several years ago. 

 * * *

Family Reunion

Not long after the anniversary event, we made our way to the other side of London to attend a small reunion of my mother-in-law’s family. It was an extremely rare gathering of people, all of whom are still in and around London except for my MIL. We met at a nice restaurant for an early dinner (great hanging out with old people). Again, it’s not really my family so I had few connections with the attendees but there were lots of good stories about post-war London in the 1950s and 60s.

lunch near Watford on the outskirts of London

* * * 

Hever Castle

I’ve been to England many times but I confess that I’ve spent a limited amount of time cruising around the countryside seeing the sites. Most of my time has been spent in London. Admittedly there is a tremendous amount of things to see in and around the city. But there’s an enormous amount to see throughout the country, regardless of what your interests are.

Being a history buff, I’m quite happy visiting castles and getting drawn into their historical significance. I realize that it’s not for everyone and I didn’t want to impose it on others if it’s not their cup of tea. Thankfully, there were indeed some takers. In fact, there’s been a significant investment in making these sites attractive for various ages/interests. In addition to gift shops, many have play areas for kids, snack bars as well as other activities like hedge mazes, archery and even hosting a triathlon. I assume that this strategy is working given that everywhere we went, there were loads of tourists, many of whom make regular visits. The only concern is the temptation to go too far with the whole Disneyfication of these places. For my tastes, Hever seemed to achieve a good balance.

We arrived from Croydon after a nice drive through the English countryside. It’s adjacent to a quintessential old English village. One of the buildings in the area was from 1453.

We were a group of more than a dozen so once inside the castle grounds, we decided to split up. A few of us went to the castle while others ventured off to do other things. Those that know me would guess that I was part of those who headed straight for the castle. I’ve always liked history and I think that the ten years that I spent in Europe fueled my interests.

Hever Castle

 

Castles are not static pieces of real estate. They evolve over time as they change ownership and as history evolves around them. You end up with blended architectural styles, furnishings and art. Hever is a good example. The oldest part of the castle dates back to 1270 and was later upgraded in 1462. This work was carried out by Geoffrey Boleyn, whose family would later gain notoriety as his great granddaughter Anne would become the second wife of Henry VIII (notoriously beheaded for failing to produce a male heir to the throne). It’s the attachment to the Boleyn family for which the castle is most known today. However, the castle’s current elegant appearance is largely due to a much later owner and occupant, William Waldorf Astor.

Tudor style buildings added by Astor

Astor, the son of John Jacob Astor, unlike me, inherited an insane amount of money from his dad who had been the richest man in America through railroads and real estate. Upon his father’s death, he in turn became America’s richest person. Wranglings within the family and a disenchantment with America prompted William to move to England. Impressed with the country, and with English society, he looked to dig in and make it home. At the time, Hever Castle would probably have been considered a fixer-upper and, in 1903, William began dumping millions of his American wealth into fixing up the place as well as adding his own touches. While I don’t think Brits are keen on the fact that it was an American that made one of their treasures what it is today, most that I spoke to shrug that off. The emphasis remains on the Boleyns and the castle’s role as a prominent feature of English history.

some of the castle grounds

The castle tour, at least for me, was enjoyable. They have the portable audio sets that let you file through the place at your own pace. The Astor’s went to great lengths to restore the original structure while adding comforts of the 20^th century. They maintained ownership until 1983 when they turned it over to a private company who has developed the estate as the tourist destination it is today.

Back to Somalia

There’s no question that I have been able to catch up on some lost time in Somalia. It’s been something that I’ve been needing to do. Wanting to do. I always have mixed feelings about it, as I’ve mentioned before. I love connecting with staff and seeing the work on the ground. We’ve been able to accomplish so much in many of these communities. But it’s brutal to see the conditions so many others are living in and hearing their stories. It’s a harsh wake-up call that the world is simply not fair. I also don't like spending so much time away from my family.

* * *

On this occasion I would be traveling with a couple of colleagues from NY. I intentionally avoid using most people’s names, limit how much I show people in photos, just in case they’re not keen on appearing in someone’s blog. They may show up in a photo here and there but I try to keep it pretty anonymous.

Our trip would start in Nairobi where we would catch the usual 4am taxi to the airport. Travel went without a hitch and by about 9am we were navigating the streets of Mogadishu in our armored vehicle with our armed escort. Neither of the visitors had had this kind of security treatment. One of them hadn’t ever been to a setting like this at all. I think it came as a bit of a shock. Admittedly, it’s a bit strange and intimidating in the beginning for even the most seasoned traveler.

Part of it is simply the lack of familiarity. It’s difficult to be plopped down in any setting not knowing what the risks are. The longer you’re there, the more you begin to understand what you should be afraid of and what is probably an insignificant risk. A lot of it is down to perception. In the US, people have developed fears due to mass shootings that have taken place. Many of these fears are irrational given the statistical unlikelihood of something happening in your school, shopping mall, etc. but your perception of the danger can drive how much of your mental energy is spent on fear and precautionary actions.

Having done what I do for a long time, I find that some precautionary actions are simply built into me now. Some of it comes from lots of training that I’ve had. Most of the time I don’t even think about. How do I hold a bag when I walk down the street? I scan people/motorcyclists on the street to anticipate potential threat of theft. Where do I position myself in a restaurant (ex. never with my back to the door)? I always scan a room to look for alternative exits. Even when it’s unnecessary, I habitually back a vehicle into parking spaces (ready position). Most of these habits will probably be with me until the day I die.

In Nairobi, these precautions are not unreasonable. A few weeks ago when I was jogging, soon after I passed a side street, a motorcycle with two guys on it came around the corner and the guy sitting on the back of the bike took a swipe at my cell phone (in my pocket attached to earbuds). Apparently one tactic these guys use is to sit on a side street and watch passers by on a busier street. When they see a likely target, they zoom out, come from behind and rob them. In my case, the guy missed. Interestingly, he was not wearing a mask (something that would not draw attention these days and serve to hide his identity). After missing his target, the passenger looked back at me, gave me a half smile, shrugged his shoulders and they disappeared down the road.  

* * *

Our first stop in Mogadishu was a hospital that we support wedged tightly in a neighborhood not far from our office. The dirt path (not really a street) to access it is barely wider than a vehicle. Our staff, and people accessing services, generally arrive on foot or occasionally by motorcycle. It’s a good clinic though, albeit a bit cramped. It’s a corrugated metal structure, like those around it, with about twelve rooms. The drought is causing an increase in activity, particularly with regards to malnutrition cases. There must be thousands of these facilities around the world and they are so critical for the communities they serve.

colorful waiting area

Next we went to the northern side of the city. If someone follows this blog, the place will look familiar. There is no place I’ve visited more frequently. It’s a nice facility, clean, and it involves a drive across Mogadishu to get there. I feel like it’s important for visitors to experience the rather messy drive across the city to get a feel for our context. 

scars from war

 

turquoise waters, albeit with a bit of protection

After the visit, we went to lunch. Not just any lunch. We thought we’d treat our guests to lobster at a beach restaurant. It’s not something most people get a chance to do. I’ve done it several times and it’s not always an option given the security situation. But this time we felt confident that we could pull it off. It’s always such a treat to walk on the beach, sit for a bit and have some lunch, enjoy the view, feel the breeze, etc. Given how much one feels closed in with all the security and lack of ability to move around autonomously, getting out like this is wonderful. It’s also a glimpse of what an amazing place Somalia is, or at least could be.

lobster on the beach - future tourist destination?

* * *

The next day we were off to the interior of the country. Galkacyo is about midway between the north and the south, near the border with Ethiopia. I had just been there with a colleague a week and a half prior (see blog before last). It’s relatively accessible and a big portion of our drought response. It’s rather vast, though, and involves lots of driving on bumpy roads.

gotta love camels

The visit unfolded in similar fashion to the previous trip so I won’t repeat myself. Long drives. Sad/tragic stories. Inspiring stories. Camels. More driving. More stories. Camels. Repeat.

so many cute kids

Though I saw a few things and people that I’d seen on the previous trip, we did take some roads I hadn’t been on before. They’re not always accessible given the evolving security situation but on this occasion there weren’t any issues.

kid pretending to drive - I remember doing the same though not in a tuk-tuk

solar-powered water pump providing water during drought

It’s also a good opportunity to reflect again on what we’re doing and what we might be able to do to expedite the response. Improve the coverage. Etc. Listening to the local elders as well as those who have been displaced from their homes provide a wealth of information to my team as we adapt our interventions to an evolving situation. It’s impossible to respond to all the needs, obviously, and there are some hard choices to make – a triage of sorts – to focus on saving lives. It means not responding to some needs in the interest of more critical needs as we’re moving from severe drought to potential famine.

safe space for women and girls - skills training

tough living conditions for those displaced by drought

9 vehicle convoy - not very discreet while traveling through the country

 

roadside goat in a boat

* * *

After two days, we made our way back to Mogadishu. On the return there were no activity visits. There would only be time for a staff meeting, which was focused on our guests. I wasn’t able to attend due to a Queen’s Day event at the UK embassy, within the fortified “green zone”. I don’t generally spend much time there but it’s important for me to connect with many of the people that do. As such, I made it a priority to attend and pay my respects to the 96-year-old sovereign. We’re not sure how many more Queen’s Days there will be before they change to King’s Day.

gorgeous view from a compound within the fortified airport

It's the first time they’ve had this event since the pandemic. I attended in the years prior. You’re basically in a fortified compound which sits in the larger fortified compound. You’re surrounded by unattractive Hesco walls. (If you’re not familiar with the term Hesco, it is one of those terms that is a company name gradually becoming just a common name for lined wire 4 ft. cubes filled with sand that, when stacked, form a security barrier. They’re often the fortifier of choice given that they absorb blasts well. Unlike cement walls which fracture into small pieces (i.e. projectiles) consequently amplifying the impact of a blast.) Sharpshooters with shades stand atop the container buildings as people in suits mingle on the artificial turf below sipping juice. Alcohol is illegal in Somalia but the “green zone”, which is a fortified sea of UN and international organizations, has different rules for just about everything. Just about anything goes. However, at events that include Somalis such as this one, no booze.

Nairobi National Park

Between mid-May and mid-June, I have spent the majority of my time in Somalia. As the drought worsens and we inch closer to famine, it’s critical that we step up our response. It’s also important for me to see what’s happening on the ground such that I can collect footage and share the information to donors, media and anyone who will listen. The situation is dire and those who are most vulnerable are suffering the most. Understanding that there are dire needs elsewhere in the world, the scale of the situation unfolding in the Horn of Africa is truly astounding.

In between trips to Somalia, I need to be husband, dad and all the other roles that I am entrusted with. Admittedly, it's hard to do them all justice with all that is going on with my work. But I have nothing to complain about.

For example, I was able to enjoy a half-day in Nairobi National Park with family. I have to say, it’s truly amazing that Kenya has been able to preserve such a wonderful place on the doorstep to the capital city.

My sister-in-law was in town and, though she’s been on safari several times before, she hadn’t been to NNP. In fact it’s a great thing to do any time someone is visiting. I’m told they also have deals for people traveling through Nairobi with a layover long enough to do it. Cool idea.

The plan was to get up before the sun and hit the park early. In fact, the sun never got up. While not ideal for photography, it’s not the end of the world. National parks are great anyway.

The other challenge we faced was that it poured rain the night before. Though most of the roads are well maintained, to the point that it limits the mud, it can make some of the lesser roads impassible and can make some stream crossings precarious. Fear of getting stuck.

We were out of the house early though not as early as anticipated. The main entrance to the park is about 20 minutes from our house. In spite of the overcast skies, I admit that I was excited to use one of my few non-work weekend days on a game drive. It always makes me wonder why we don’t do this more.

I know NNP fairly well but not as well as I should. Generally I cruise around by following my instincts. When we would spot a group of vehicles off in the distance, it was a sure sign that there was something interesting to see. Guides communicate with each other on VHF radio or phone but those of us who are self-guided need to find other means. I also resorted to using my phone a few times to help me navigate (good cell reception close to a major city).

At one point we decided to make our way to the hippo pools. Google is detailed enough to show most of the roads within the park though it’s not clear whether they are decent. I took the most direct route from where we were. However, very quickly the condition of the road deteriorated. There were stretches that were steep and rough making it unlikely that we would want to turn around, even if we could.

After descending a rather steep section we came upon a river crossing that provided little indication as to its depth. There did appear to be a set of fresh-ish tire tracks that led to the water (and no sign of a stranded vehicle) so it gave me a bit of confidence that we might be able to make it across. That, in addition to the nasty stretch that led to where we were, gave me more motivation to believe we could make it. So I put it into first gear and off we went.

Soon after entering the water, the nose of the vehicle dropped and a wave came up over the hood and onto the windshield. This is generally not advisable, particularly when you are in the middle of nowhere. I have faith in the Toyota Forerunner (Fortuna in Kenya) like no other vehicle but everything has its limit. We were in water that was over four feet deep and we were barely halfway across.

As we plowed forward, the nose of the vehicle soon popped up and we began to climb out of the stream. The nights rains presented a formidable challenge but we made it across. The was a sigh of relief but I was still wary of the fact that we had no idea what was still ahead of us.

Thankfully, there ended up being no more major crossings, but the road threw all sorts of challenges at us until we finally came out on one of the main roads. From there it was only a short distance to the hippo pools.

We’d been in this part of the park before but not to the actual pools which requires a guide. So we decided to take advantage of the occasion and go for a short walk to hopefully see some hippos.

In the end, we didn’t see a single hippo. We heard one off in the distance as we were walking but that was all the “hippo pools” had to offer us that day. We did see other things and it felt good to get out of the vehicle and go for a bit of a walk. Sort of like a mini “walking safari”.

After finishing our walk, it was time to make our way back to the main entrance which was more or less on the other side of the park. Our goal was to make our lunch reservation at a nearby restaurant. Other than seeing a few crocodiles, hippos (finally) and a nice moment with a giraffe and her calf, the trip back to the gate was uneventful.

Mission accomplished. Time for lunch.