The days before leaving

The days before leaving on holiday are always packed. It’s inevitable. You’re trying to get as much done as possible, both at work and at home. Because there are so many Europeans working here, the annual work rhythm is influenced by their tendencies to take their generous (sensible) vacations in July or August. Though I don’t work for a European organization, the nature of my work affords me a bit more annual leave than other professions. I’m quite thankful for that.

Kinaya ballet performance

Kiran doing something I'll never do

So given that much of the international community skips town during the Western hemisphere’s summer months, people try to cram in loads of activities before leaving. They all tend to fall during the same two or three weeks from mid-June to early July. We are culpable as well. The girls’ birthday parties both fall in July. For some time we were getting away with them attending others’ extravagant birthday events with bouncy castles, clowns, gift bags, etc. (seems to be a thing here) while going to the US and having more subdued affairs. Our lovely and maturing daughters finally called us out on it last year. “Why don’t WE get to have parties with our friends here in Nairobi?” Ugh. I suppose it’s fair since they are pretty much the only ones among their friends that get cheated out of a big party.

And, if I’m honest, it’s not terribly expensive here, certainly compared to what the same thing would be in Europe or the US. I was even more supportive when I learned that these clowns are mostly starving college students. So we caved and told them they could have a combined party with some of, but not all of, the party trappings they have become acquainted with at their friends’ parties.

celebrating the Queen's birthday at the UK event in Nairobi

Another event that was squeezed in among the others was a football match (i.e. soccer). For some reason I have been to few matches in my life. I’m not sure why. They’re quite fun and, so long as they don’t get too violent, it can be a nice outing with friends. I went to one many years ago (1985) in Rio de Janeiro that sort of turned ugly. It was a home match of Brazil’s most famous (and richest) club Flamengo. I don’t remember who they were playing but police in riot gear lined the area between the opposing spectators to prevent all out war. I was there with my basketball teammates and we were stupid enough to wear our team colors. Anything non-Flamengo was reason enough for targeting. From the time we filed in to take our seats we were pelted with all sorts of things. The riot police eventually moved us to seats near the opposition fans where they could protect us more easily. Though we had no allegiance to either team, we were immediately converted to Flamengo supporters in order to try to limit the amount of rubbish being tossed in our direction. To be honest, I don’t remember anything about the match itself. Only my preoccupation with what went on in the stands.

But I have seen matches in a few other countries where things were a bit less crazy and more enjoyable. This match in Nairobi was crazy in some ways but turned out to be great fun. It began by an invitation of one of our friends who has a high position in the company that was the primary sponsor of the event. A few of us hopped in his van and we braved nasty Nairobi traffic to see what was somewhat of a historic event. It was the first time that an English Premier League team, Everton, would play in Kenya. It was huge. They were playing against one of the top Kenyan teams in what I think was the largest crowd ever to see a match in this country. To make sure the stadium was packed to something like 65,000 people, tickets were sold for the equivalent of $1.

It was tense even getting to our VVIP parking. Between that and the traffic on the highway, we ended up being a few minutes late. People were climbing the fences and rushing the gates as they would open for vehicles. A part of me was thinking that things could get ugly if the police don’t keep things under control.

In the end it never got too out of hand. We finally made it inside and were able to be in the VVIP box alongside the important people. We felt a bit like posers at first but soon we were caught up in the excitement of the match. It was such a good time – stoked by the fact that the home team, who was supposed to be annihilated, scored first. The place went bonkers and sort of stayed that way to the end. Everton ended up scoring an equalizer and normally the match could amicably end that way (given that it was a “friendly” or exhibition game). But it was agreed that on this occasion, to give fans their full dollars’ worth, it would go to goal kicks. And the home team won sending the capacity Kenyan crowd into euphoria.

second from left, first Kenyan to win the WBC title - post match party

To be fair, Everton didn’t play their stars much and they had little to gain by winning (compared to the Kenyan team). But it must have been a bit of a blow to their egos. On the upside, the players were very gracious losers, made a point to salute the fans at the end and likely gained at least a few hundred new supporters.

After the match we walked down onto the pitch and one of the Everton staffers gave us cool, blue Everton jerseys. So I’m a fan now.