Mogadishu

Lots of Rain

I’m sitting at the UN in their outdoor café (covered) reflecting on the past week in Somalia. A tropical rain is pouring, and pooled water is inching its way across the floor in my direction. A thundering downpour is not a common occurrence in Mogadishu and a few people have been taking photos. I did the same on the drive from our office to the “green zone” as we plowed through water reaching the top of the tires. Drainage and sewage are terrible here so even the slightest rain can result in flooding. Given how much rain we’ve had today already, it’s certain that the city is going to be a mess. I have a flight later today and I’m glad I came early for meetings. I would not want flooding to block me from catching my flight.

powering through deep water

It’s hard to tell how widespread these rains are, but I’m hoping it is providing some relief for the drought situation. In any case, it’s a treat, particularly given the oppressive heat each day. If the sun comes out this afternoon, it’s going to amplify the humidity.

* * *

Security

After all these years of moving back and forth between Nairobi and Mogadishu, I’m as adapted to one city as much as I am the other. For the latter, it’s an adaptation that is obviously distinct from adapting to other cities. I can’t move about freely due to security constraints and I do my best to keep out of harm’s way as much as possible. But I can’t remain in a box and it’s necessary sometimes to challenge protocols as a part of our ongoing monitoring their appropriateness. Overly stringent measures will unnecessarily limit one’s ability to fulfill basic responsibilities, cutting you off from the local population. Overly loose protocols can expose you to serious danger. Finding that middle ground involves tracking the evolution of the security situation, crunching lots of data (where, when incidents normally occur) and using your instincts. This applies to me but also to the movements of our team and our local partners, albeit not in the same way.

Admittedly, the security in Mogadishu has improved in some ways. Statistically, there are fewer militant attacks. Construction and private investment have been dramatic. The city is far more vibrant than it used to be. A profile picture I took of me on the Lido beach back in 2016 shows almost no one in the background except some kids playing football. Now the beach is full of people, sometimes late into the night.

Mogadishu by night; view from our building

So far, thanks in large part to my beloved security guy, we’ve been able to get it more or less right. We did lose a colleague in a massive explosion in 2017 (which killed 512 people and injured hundreds of others), but something like that was so massive that it was unavoidable (the blast radius was large enough to damage our office building which was about a kilometer away). But overall, I feel like we’ve done a pretty good job navigating what has been some troubled waters at times.

I definitely have more freedom of movement than I did several years ago, and I also have a much better sense of what is safe and what isn’t. But the risks are still very real and no one, including my Somali colleagues, can afford to take them lightly.

What has increased is criminality. Data for this is scant since people often don’t report such things, but anecdotally and through various reports I’ve read, it’s clear that the situation is worsening.

Improving Economy?

It should also be pointed out that lots of new buildings and people on a beach do not necessarily mean that prosperity is on the rise. On the contrary, drought and reduction of aid have taken poverty levels to new heights. Unemployment continues to rise as Somalia’s high birth rate and lack of economic growth results in more and more students pouring into the market with no jobs waiting for them. Few resources are allocated to infrastructure so things like sewage and roads are in terrible condition. Water and electricity are privatized so they can at least be maintained, though accessible only to the small minority who can pay for it. And those resources are struggling to keep pace with expanding needs.

One issue is that the economy has largely been fueled by diaspora investment and money trickling in through the aid world. As the global economy is taking a hit, Somalis living abroad have less to send home and have fewer resources to invest. And as we all know, humanitarian and development took a beating over the last year or so and, for an economy as dependent on aid as Somalia, it has been devastating. Also, natural resources are scant and there doesn’t seem to be a clear path forward to replace these revenue streams. The Turks have recently begun to explore the seabed for oil, though it has been reported that, even if they are able to find decent amounts of petroleum off the Somali coast, any benefit would be years away. And there are concerns that the financial arrangement may benefit Türkiye more than Somalia.

Going Forward

As I am now in my final months of working in the country, I’m sometimes asked how I view things going forward. For the full answer, I would probably need to write a book. In short, however, it will boil down to leadership. There are certainly paths the country could take to begin to deal with these massive obstacles. But since I have worked here, the country has been so divided and subjected to a cadre of people vying for power, often through force or the threat of force, that very little energy has been devoted to bettering the country. I don’t see that changing anytime soon.

One government official I spoke to didn’t disagree. He said that as long as systems don’t exist, “we who choose to enter this playing field, do so knowing that this is what we are up against.” He said that some embrace it. Some only tolerate it. But he added that you either play the game as it is or you don’t play at all. Sort of an acceptance of the status quo but with seemingly no ability to change it.

* * *

The Mosque

On Sunday I visited the large mosque near our office. I have been a couple of times and I thoroughly enjoy it. It’s obviously a place that is not accustomed to visits by non-Somalis. I’ve been many places over the years where people stared at me because my presence was unexpected. This one stands out (as I did).

beautiful mosque on a hot day

I would not be allowed inside the mosque as a non-Muslim, but, technically, I’m free to wander around outside. There weren’t too many people around given that we timed it so that we would be there between prayer times. For the people that were there, I couldn’t tell if it they were uncomfortable or just curious, or both. I know my HR guy that accompanied me was aware and also wanted to limit my exposure. After stopping to take a couple photos, we wandered around to the back of the building, away from the main courtyard, and found a bench where we could sit and enjoy the coolness of early evening.

the "women section" of the courtyard and ocean view

Our office had an electrical fire late last week and as a result of the repairs that were underway that day, the building had no electricity and, alas, no air conditioning. Afternoon temperatures were suffocating. My phone said 33 degrees Celsius (91 F) but feels like 41 (105 F) not counting the humidity. So finding some shade and a cool breeze was very welcome to say the least.

my name as a Somali barista hears it

Inside the mosque compound there is a small café and a store. When we first entered, we went to the café to grab a drink. The last time I was there I had a cappuccino which, on this occasion, sounded good to me for some reason in spite of the heat outside. Also, there’s no menu, at least not one in English, so I thought going with something I know would complicate things the least.

In the US and other Western countries, you’re generally offered a plethora of different types of milk. In Somalia it’s usually a binary choice between camel milk and cow milk. This guy didn’t ask and, after taking my first sip, very quickly I realized that the default is camel milk. I’ve had camel milk many times over the years, but I generally wouldn’t take it in my coffee. And I try to avoid it altogether. Though it’s supposedly good for you, it has sort of a pungent, musty flavor. It’s probably best if you became acquainted with it as a child. I had it fairly frequently when I first began working in Somalia. I was trying to “go local” and not be a soft foreigner. I’m past that stage now and am comfortable opting out. But when it’s already served to me, I muscle through.

A Couple Weeks in Nairobi

A State of Badness

I recently stumbled on a report that ranks US states by “sinfulness”. How do you determine sinfulness? Well, according to WalletHub, you do it by looking at 54 indicators ranging from violent crimes, to gambling disorders, prostitution arrests, thefts per capita, excessive drinking, disconnected youth (not in school or not working), road rage, etc. As flawed as these metrics are, they are an interesting glimpse into life in America.

As someone who has lived outside the US for most of my life, there were some things that stood out to me in the report. My native state of Idaho can seem a bit lawless at times, yet it ranked 48^th least “sinful” overall out of 50 (surprisingly fewest number of thefts per capita in the country). Its neighbor, Wyoming, ranked on top at 50. Utah was ranked 44^th so, generally speaking, it appears that the Rocky Mountains bring out the best in people, so long as you stay out of Colorado which clocked in at a lowly 18. Nevada won the award for most “sinful”.

What I find interesting is that the traditional Bible Belt states in America didn’t fare very well according to these metrics. In fact, all eleven ended up in the top 22 most “sinful”. There would be a lot to unpack in that interesting little irony but I will hold off – only say that these states make up the heart of Trump country.

* * *

I have had a full couple of weeks in Nairobi, but it is soon coming to an end as I will be returning to Mogadishu on the weekend. There have been school events, dinners with friends, etc. as well as just some good times at home with the family. Time is flying by and I try not to take these times for granted. 

Artists at work

 

This year's finished products

One school event was the recognition of the Model UN representatives from the French school. The evening featured the ambassadors of both France and Morocco. Kinaya was among the honorees and their school finished number one of the 65 or so schools who participated. Lovely little nerds.

The French ambassador with Kinaya's photo on the backdrop slideshow

 

The baby whisperer. Haven't lost my touch.

* * *

Transition

The news is out now that I will be leaving my current job later this year. It’s a combination of term limits established by my employer and my need to step away from a career that has been wonderfully fulfilling yet terribly draining on many levels. I had been planning on stepping down a year from July, but the term limits thing will bump it up a few months to the end of September. The more I have thought about it, the more I think September is the better alternative.

I have been with the same organization for almost 20 years – all in East Africa and often in some not-so-nice places (some that would rank high on an African sinful list). It’s a mix of apprehension and excitement to think of moving on, but overall it feels like the right thing to do. I have been in some discussions about possible career options from October onward, but I would relish an opportunity to take some time off. I haven’t had time off since before I was in high school and I feel like it's time for a break. The one thing that my family has decided is that they want to stay in Nairobi at least until the girls finish secondary school – roughly five more years. Though I’m indifferent about the idea of staying in Kenya, there are far worse places to live.

Mogadishu

I’m back in Mogadishu. When I was preparing to travel, it felt like I’d been away for a while. Now that I’m back, it sort of feels like I never left. Once I get settled back into my routines, it all seems quite normal – at least as normal as this sort of life can be.

I had a nice couple of weeks in Nairobi before coming. I attended two different farewell parties for high-level UN friends who are moving to new countries: one to the Congo and the other to China. Sad for them to go, but that’s the nature of this work. I’ve moved far less than most who have done this work for over twenty years, so our family has been less disrupted. I have fortunately had more choice over such decisions than some.

* * *

One regret about this blog over the years is that I often don’t discuss what is happening in the world at the time I’m writing. The entries tend to be a focus on what specifically I’m doing at that point in time. But in retrospect, couching these events in a changing world could have added some color to the accounts. It can still be done, just not as well as if I had done it at the time.

* * *

Perfect Storm

Case in point. An obvious current event that is impacting my work is the war in the Gulf. There are many ways in which this is impacting us, most notably the impact on fuel prices and commodities. This additional cost is undermining aid delivery and creating huge burdens on Somali citizens. About 90% of food in the country is imported. Depending on how long this war lasts, the potential impact could be devastating.

We have also had significant tensions around the country, some if it related to Al-Shebab but a lot of it is clan related. We’re also working in a context that has experienced dramatic funding reductions over the past year. And all of this is playing out amidst an unfolding severe drought. It’s a perfect storm that is causing tremendous suffering and loss of life. 

Dinner out with the team

 

* * *

Cognitive Dissonance

Last week and this week I have attended several meetings and conferences. I get the impression that many here, Somalis and foreigners, live in a make-believe world where they are intentionally or unintentionally oblivious to realities on the ground. For some Somalis, like people in many other countries, there is a desire (or need) to disregard uncomfortable realities. Everyone does this to a certain degree. Maybe we know that the train is heading in the wrong direction, but we’re content to sit in the dining car and enjoy the view. We don’t want to think about things that make us feel uncomfortable.

Lots of meetings

For foreigners, part of the disconnect about the situation in this country may be caused simply by ignorance given that many are unable to leave the “green zone” for security reasons. Their understanding of the context is shaped by limited contact with the realities on the ground. For others in the international community, it can be willful ignorance. For example, a skewed perception that the security situation is worse than it really is can be convenient. It can mean people don’t need to leave the comfort of their office to go get dusty visiting a remote village. It also results in huge investments in an organization’s security apparatus beyond what is justified. It can also foster the disconnect mentioned above. 

 

And I sometimes make the news...

More Disconnect

Our team also has lots of discussions about corruption and illicit behavior, but there seems to be little real effort in dealing with it or even clarifying what it is. I was speaking with a colleague yesterday about this disconnect. She was talking about how Somalis define some behavior as normal within the culture when the same behavior would be unacceptable in other contexts and according to humanitarian standards. For example, it’s known that some bribery, manipulating tender a tender process, domestic violence, child marriage, female genital mutilation, etc. are viewed by many Somalis as normal behavior, including by many who are doing humanitarian work. Yet we sit in large gatherings and assume that we are all on the same page. Somalis have grown accustomed to this disconnect and much of the international community is oblivious to it. Or it suits them to pretend that it doesn’t exist. 

Mental Health

Should be a tourist destination

 

I did find some time to get out and go for a run and swim in the "green zone" under the watchful eyes in the guard towers. It's super hot and humid, but it was good to get out and think about something besides work. When I'm here over a weekend, it's easier to find the time to do this. 

Colorful fish swimming around me