Indiana

Travel Woes

I recently read an article in the Washington Post about how basic economy ticket holders are experiencing increasing abuse by airlines in an effort to get people to pay higher fares. I saw the piece two days after returning to the US while traveling under those same conditions. I fear that it may work on me.

This is something that has increased over the past few years. You can still find reasonable airfare but you are increasingly subjected to travel conditions that can make for a miserable travel experience. For example, you can’t select your seats and you are generally relegated to less desirable locations within the airplane (e.g. middle seats as well as the back row when you are unable to recline and you are last to disembark). You’re also last to board. They’ve created a zone 8 even for small aircraft to enhance your shame in paying so little for your ticket. I generally embrace boarding last since it translates to less time on the plane, but when you’re traveling with people who have roller bags that need overhead cabin space, it often means that space gets used up and you’ll end up needed to check the carry-ons.

I’m also hearing that they are going to increasingly prevent you from accumulating mileage for the rewards program if you travel as a cheapskate. This is of more concern to me since I have benefited from the perks of the program. 

Some of those inflicted by this torment are people who, like some college students/staff who were on our plane, or like me when I travel for work, have organizations that require them to travel on lowest fare available. And taller/larger people pay the biggest price for the smaller seats.

Anyway, as I travel several thousand miles per year, this is becoming a bigger issue.  We shall see if the resources we have for traveling as a my family will allow for the less painful treatment.

* * *

Indiana

We did, however, manage to get to our destination for our February trip. It’s tough to squeeze in travel to two different parts of the US within a 2-week period – the amount of time allotted to us given the girls’ school vacation. But as I experienced with the passing of my father last year, time with family is valuable. It’s just more complicated and expensive for us than it is for most people.

shooting hoops with the kids

Travel from east to west tends to present fewer problems with jet lag for our family than traveling west to east. As such, we jumped right into the routines of visiting family in southern Indiana. The weather was cold but not uncomfortable, at least not for me. We did receive a small amount of snow, but it didn’t last even a half-day.

at least we had a little snow

The visit went more or less as anticipated. Church with grandma. Morning workouts. Afternoon tea with whoever was around on that particular day. Family dinners most evenings. Kiran and I needed to allocate time for her schoolwork, so we took advantage of the local library. I do love libraries, but they seem to be struggling to stay alive.

studying in the library - while on vacation...

On one afternoon we went to a massive indoor high school track and field event in Louisville. It was impressive to say the least. There were schools from all over Kentucky and each of the running events had nearly a dozen heats. The event officials were efficient in allowing very little time between each heat so that hundreds and hundreds of kids were able to compete throughout the course of the day. We went because our niece was competing in the 200m. She easily won her heat which is always satisfying.

high school sports are on another level than when I was competing

* * *

We also went to a performance at a place called Derby Dinner. We have been going there about once a year for several years. This year we saw a play that I knew very little about called The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee. It’s a quirky play that was briefly on Broadway and was nominated for a couple of Tony Awards. I had heard of it a long time ago but had never seen it.

evening out with the family

It’s one of those plays that is entertaining for all ages, particularly for a play that takes place entirely on a single set. It’s cleverly written and the local cast was pretty impressive. An unusual aspect of the show, apparently no matter where it is performed, is that four real audience members are invited on stage to compete in the spelling bee alongside the six young characters. It adds a little improv to the show.

* * *

The Duchess

Prior to leaving on our vacation, I received a request from the UK embassy to participate in hosting a VIP visit so Mogadishu. In fact, they referred to it as a VVIP visit and they couldn’t even communicate to me the identity of the proposed visitor. As preparations moved forward, we couldn’t resist in speculating who the visitor would be. But with the information provided, it was increasingly clear that it was going to be the Duchess of Edinburgh, sister-in-law of the King. In addition to working with my team to host a visit to one of our health facilities, I was invited to participate in a dinner that was hosted in her honor. The problem? I would be in Indiana. Bummer.

It’s the second opportunity I have had to meet a member of the royal family. A few years ago, I was invited to participate in an event hosted by (then) Prince Charles at Buckingham Palace. He has always been keen on fighting climate change and our organization, with its English connections and respected work in this area, obtained an invitation to an event that would “possibly” take place. As it happened, I had a Somali staff who was already going to be in London at the time and, given the uncertainty around the event, I put her name forward instead of mine. It didn’t seem to make sense for me to fly to London without knowledge if or when the event would take place.

As you might guess, the event did indeed happen, and my colleague promptly shared the photo of her shaking hands with the future king. I’m now 0/2 in meeting royals.

 

 

 

 

Mogadishu - The New Year Begins

As the dust settled on the holiday season, it was time to return to Mogadishu. Given that I didn’t take any vacation time over the past few weeks, and the fact that I have been tracking the situation in Somalia, it is much easier to return with a solid understanding of what is going on. And there is a lot going on.

Cool, early morning view of Mt. Kenya to the west while flying to Mogadishu

Over the past couple of decades of writing this blog, I have increasingly shied away from expressing opinions regarding politics, particularly with my country of focus. This has been important over the years as governments have increasingly employed teams who track published statements and articles that could be perceived as anti-government sentiment, whether it is communicated by their own citizens or others. Though it is rare, there are cases where internationals have been kicked out of countries where I have worked, declared persona non grata (PNG) or even arrested. This doesn’t only concern comments about the country where I work. It could also apply to countries that provide us funding. I have also been tracked by my own organization in the past (I received an email telling me so), likely assuring that nothing I communicate could potentially damage the reputation of the organization.

It doesn’t mean that I don’t have strong opinions. It just means that I heavily filter what I share online. There have been debates among my peers about this very thing. Are we irresponsible when we remain silent about actions taken by governments that could harm our beneficiaries? This is a tricky question. We do employ many advocacy tactics to influence government decision making without necessarily posting things on social media. But foreign non-governmental organizations (like ours) and their international staff don’t have the legal protections that, for example, UN entities have.

And there are times when our organization has indeed had people PNG’d, including entire offices being shut down for public statements. It then begs the question as to whether your strong public statements that result in your removal are more beneficial to the population you are serving as opposed to more tempered statements that allow you to remain in country to continue providing them support.

There is no easy answer to this question. I think there are times when we have gotten it wrong, but overall, I think we find a pretty good balance. In any case, rest assured that I will continue my politically bland prose until conditions allow me to be a bit more unshackled.

* * *

There is no shortage of controversial events taking place in the Horn of Africa right now that are stirring heated debate. Israel, who has long been held in low regard around certainly the Muslim world for its actions in Palestine, recently agreed to recognize Somaliland as an independent state. This is controversial because Somalia doesn’t recognize Somaliland as a separate country, nor does the rest of the world. If you picture a map of Somalia as the shape of the number 7, Somaliland is the top of the 7.

I would guess that most of the world doesn’t really care either way, but most would also feel that recognizing any “breakaway” entities as a dangerous precedent that could come back to haunt their own countries at some point. But whether or not it is actually breaking away is a complicated topic that goes back to colonial times when the Brits ruled what is now Somaliland and the Italians were in charge of the rest. The debate involves historical boundaries, clannism, politics, security, geography, economics and Somali identity related to my previous blog entry. It is complex to say the least.

Israel’s interest is complex as well, but part of it is a desire to establish a military presence across the Red Sea from the Houthis in Yemen. The Houthis are a group supported by Iran that has, among other things, been attacking Israel and those who support it. The deal is that with the formal recognition, Somaliland will allow Israel to establish bases on the coast facing Yemen.

For much of the Muslim world, getting into bed with Israel is crossing a red line, particularly after what has happened in Gaza over the past couple of years (and over the past several decades). But it does show you how massively important independence is for Somaliland. The fact that they would cross this red line is something I thought I would never see.

So far, no countries are following Israel’s lead in this recognition as I’m sure Somalilanders were hoping. But an Israeli footprint in the Horn of Africa is unprecedented so things are likely going to get even more interesting than they already are.

* * *

I don't see vervet monkeys that often in Mogadishu.. 

I am writing this from Mogadishu, though I likely won’t post it until I’m back in Nairobi (as is always the case). It’s generally easier to find time in the evenings to write given that I’m alone in the guesthouse. When I’m back in Nairobi, there are too many distractions.

Early morning for the monkeys.

 

Even though there is no Christmas holiday season in Somalia, there is a certain lull in the number of events that take place which require my presence. Much of the international community is on leave during this time and there is a tendency to push events to January. Which means my Mogadishu calendar for January tends to be quite full.

I'm in there somewhere.

Though I tire of all these events and I sometimes question their utility, it is a good opportunity to reconnect with people, some of whom I’ve known for several years.

* * *

When I’m in Mogadishu for longer periods like this, I do look for opportunities to distract myself from the all-consuming work. With no family, no ability to leave my compound without security, no ability to just go for a walk, I can get a bit stir crazy. You can only absorb yourself in work for so long.

Over time, however, I have been able to put in place some measures to making going out easier (which I can’t discuss here). But I will say it has been a game changer to, for example, go to the “green zone” to have a bit more freedom of movement, including going for a run on occasion (under the watchful eye of armed men in guard towers) along the beautiful waters of the Indian Ocean. I’ve gone for runs in some weird places around the world but this is one of the weirdest.

My cook at the guesthouse does a good job and I have no complaints, but it is nice to have other food options. Overall, it’s nice just to have a change of scenery and boost for my mental health.  

I’m always struck by how beautiful the Somali coast is. It’s a mostly untapped resource that could provide so much benefit to the Somali people if security could return to the country. I always think about how it doesn’t need to be this way. But most Somalis have never known anything else. Adjusting to precarious circumstances over time (normalizing) is a natural reaction for survival, but it can rob you of the outrage that can come in handy in fighting for change. It can happen anywhere. As I look at what’s happening in the US, I fear it could happen there as well. I pray that it doesn’t.

Written Language Day

Yesterday was Written Language Day in Somalia. Yes, it’s a thing. In fact, it’s an official holiday.

I’m currently at the airport in Mogadishu getting ready to fly back to Nairobi. It allows me some time to do a short reflection on this rather strange holiday. I had a couple of meetings today and I cheerfully quizzed my Somali counterparts regarding what they know about the history of their language. It turns out they know about the same as Anglo-Saxons know about their language. Not a great deal.

* * *

A bit of history

First of all is the obvious question as to why such a day even exists, particularly because it is a written language day and not just a language day. I’m not Somali and I am not the best person to ask, but I do have some information to provide some context.

As a written language, Somali is one of the youngest in the world relative to the number of speakers. It became a written language within my lifetime back in 1972. Prior to that, it was primarily a spoken language much like Romansh in Switzerland (a shoutout to my former life there). There were apparently attempts to create a script using Arabic (given the obvious importance of Arabic for its Muslim citizens) and also using Roman characters (originating from Latin and favored by scholars who were educated in Western countries). In the end, Roman characters won and the school system was adjusted accordingly. It was a momentous decision that would impact the country forever.

I tend to think it ended up being a smart decision and not necessarily because I was raised in the Western world using Roman characters. In 1972 we had no idea that the world would soon be entering a computer, and eventually, internet age. Unbeknownst to the decision makers, it laid the foundation for a much easier transition to the modern world. Technology, driven primarily by English and Roman characters, improved over time to accommodate other scripts, including Arabic, but development was initially very slow. The use of Roman characters positioned Somalia much more quickly to adapt its language to these technologies. Had civil war not erupted and devastated the country in the 1990s and 2000s, who knows where the country would be now.

Driven overseas by war, the diaspora educated class produced much of the early content in Italian and English (the two colonial powers leading up to Somalia’s independence). It wasn’t until the last couple of decades that Somali-language content has really taken off.

The country’s diaspora numbers several million people, forming one of the world's most dispersed migrant groups. Those living overseas continue to produce much of the material by Somalis and/or covering Somalia-related topics.

* * *

The complexity of the language

The Somali language is influenced heavily by vocabulary from Arabic, with some Italian and English words stemming from the colonial legacy. Given that Swahili also has some Arabic roots, I find that I can recognize words here and there. Though I should say that I sadly have not invested a lot of time in learning the language.

The complexity is certainly a deterrent. Somali features tonal elements that make it challenging for learners. It has unique sounds like 'c' (which sounds silent to me but apparently there is a sound) and 'x' which is a guttural that causes me to cheat and use my French ‘r’ (not the same but close enough for a foreigner). Vowel length also apparently varies depending on how words are used. There is gender agreement as in Latin languages, something I’m used to from French though it works differently in Somali. Also, sentence construction (i.e. verb placement) is also very different from English.

All this not an excuse for my lack of Somali. It just didn’t help.

* * *

The cultural importance

Early in my time in the country, I learned of the profound tradition of Somali poetry. This influence is interconnected with the country’s history as a pastoralist people surviving on the rugged, desert terrain in the Horn of Africa. A Somali-American friend of mine likened it to the mythical Wild West in the US. To understand Somalis is to understand their attachment to this rich heritage. Though most Somalis, whether in Somalia or in the diaspora, have no desire to embark on a pastoralist life nowadays, driving camels or goats across the rocky desert is a cherished part of their story. They value the celebrated poets, poetry and traditional songs, including many with lyrics of reverence to the beloved camel.

This is at the heart of the language’s richness. This history influences everyday speech, adding complex allusions to even modern conversation.

* * *

But should this be a national holiday?

For a country that seems to be fighting for its life against forces of Islamist militants and the devastation of climate change, it probably seems like a frivolous reason for taking a day off from work. Indeed, that was my thought when I first heard about it. A lot of my staff are even confused about this recently created holiday.

Upon reflection, I’ve changed tack on this. First of all, the country is not inundated with noble leaders from the past who should be recognized with holidays instead. There are no days dedicated to past presidents, generals, social justice leaders, etc. nor are there any obvious candidates. Other than religious holidays and independence, there is room for something else to be recognized.

Secondly, the Somali language is a critical unifier of a population 24 million speakers in Somalia, Ethiopia, Djibouti, Kenya and the diaspora communities around the world. Clan may divide you when you are in the country, but outside, language generally makes you a brother or sister.

With the country continuing to struggle to pull out of decades of strife, and with the diaspora under pressure around the world due to attitudes towards race and immigration, the language seems to be about more than a written script. There seems to be a conscious and/or subconscious need for the solidarity of a people under threat. And language (and to a large degree religion) is an important unifier. I don’t know if that was behind the creation of the holiday, but it seems to me a good reason for its continued existence.

Happy Written Language Day.