Mogadishu

I’m in Mogadishu and, at the moment, I’m in the “green zone” in the outdoor cafeteria at the UN compound. The incongruous sound of country music is playing with the sound broken up occasionally by roar of military helicopters flying overhead and planes taking off at the nearby airstrip. It’s hot (my phone is saying that it’s a 99° F/37° C), sunny and dusty but not uncomfortable when you’re in the shade. The breeze is nearly constant as the compound sits at the edge of the Indian Ocean. It’s a strange place and there are things about it that I will miss when my time here comes to an end.

My trip was delayed by a few days due to demonstrations in Mogadishu and the potential for them to escalate. But by Sunday, we agreed that it was safe enough for me to travel. And indeed, so far things have been relatively calm. There have been violent demonstrations in Nairobi as well, even causing the city to more or less shut down for a day or so. I have been able to dodge both, at least for now.

vervet monkeys playing near the office

* * * 

Security has been a significant concern since I’ve been working in Somalia. It takes up a considerable amount of my mental energy. Part of it is the very real concern about keeping staff, partners, assets and beneficiaries (and me) safe. Part of it is the management of security: looking at cost/benefit, tracking data, analyzing the drivers of security, staying on top of technological advancements, etc. It’s something that takes time away from focusing on our humanitarian and development efforts in the country. But it's inherent in the work here. 

Security and Perception

The benefit of being here a long time is that you have a longitudinal perspective that a lot of non-Somalis don’t have. And one thing that has been a nagging issue is the balancing of perceptions vs. reality. With regards to security, there are a lot of people that have an interest in leveraging the perception that Somalia is more insecure than it really is.

It’s an issue I raised a few years ago when I met with the former US Ambassador to the UN, Linda Thomas-Greenfield. She asked if there was something that should be highlighted as an issue that impedes our work in supporting the people of Somalia. I told her that there are countless issues, some that we can control and some we can’t. The concern I raised falls largely in the former category. There is an ongoing monetization of the security situation in Somalia whereby some stakeholders have much to gain by the perception of insecurity. Around the world, there are contractors that provide security support at a high cost and have no interest in portraying environments as safe. Even among the UN structures, many people’s jobs depend on the perception of insecurity. And, frankly, it gives some in the international community (ex. UN) the ability to remain in their offices rather than heading out into the field and connecting with the population they are supposedly serving. It's an issue that I raised in multiple forums. And, as I told the Ambassador, this issue is not likely to change, at least not in the short term, since people don’t have an incentive to change it.

Mogadishu sunset

Security and Status

This is related to another issue regarding social status. In this context, security and status are intertwined. If you dismantle security structures, you potentially impact someone’s status as well. Status is defined by different things depending on the culture, but in Somalia, the security you have is frequently connected to your level in society and/or wealth.

A friend of mine, who is a former government minister, and I were having tea a while back and he was describing how this plays out in practical terms. While he served as minister a couple of presidents ago, he had a vehicle and armed escorts as needed. After the elections, and new ministers were appointed, he necessarily had to step down. All of the sudden, he had no vehicle and no security detail. This put him in a vulnerable position given that, once you’ve been in government, whether you’re currently in your role or not, you are automatically a terrorist target. In addition to his transportation challenges, he needed to move out of his house given that it was no longer secure enough without armed guards. Now, under the current president, he’s back in government and has a security detail once again. It's a practical need, but it also impacts his profile.

Whenever I attend high-level meetings with government officials, the security protocols become more elaborate the higher the rank of the government representative. If the president is coming, streets are blocked for his convoy. You expect massive delays for the start of the meeting, but don’t show up too late or you won’t be able to enter the venue. Once the president enters, no one comes in or out until he has departed. There are loads of other protocols as well. It’s similar for the Prime Minister and Deputy Prime Minister, but slightly less rigorous as you move down the line. Your importance is often linked to the amount of security you have.

Security and Separation

There’s a feeling of power when you have a lot of people looking after you and when armed guys blocking traffic as you drive through town. I know because it is the case with me as well. But after more than two decades of people looking after me and having significantly more robust security detail these last ten years, I have increasingly found it annoying. Don’t get me wrong, there is a positive side to it. I love weaving through the city at a high rate of speed and spending less time stuck in traffic (with less exposure to risk), but I have grown more and more frustrated by the barriers that result from the layers of security. I cannot visit a clinic without loads of preparation, advanced reconnaissance and a dramatic entrance accompanied by a swarm of armed men in sunglasses. In my early days in Somalia, the security situation was more precarious, and protection was even more rigorous than it is now. On one occasion back in 2017, our private security suggested that I wear a steel tactical helmet (feels like putting a large bell on your head) and a Kevlar vest when carrying out a visit to one of our projects. An HQ colleague I was with at the time was rather rotund and had difficulty wrapping the vest around his torso. In the end, we tossed the gear into the back of the armored vehicle and that was the last time I ever wore it. In addition to being terribly uncomfortable, it creates a barrier between you and the people you are meeting with.

It’s always tough to find the balance. It’s all well and good to peel off security layers until something goes wrong. Determining where that line is, not only for me but for the people I work with – putting staff in harm’s way – is one of the most stressful things I’ve ever had to do professionally. That’s why it’s always easier to add security rather than dismantle it. You have far more liability when security is lacking rather than when it is redundant. But at some point, you need to have courage to say that it's excessive, costly and creating unnecessary barriers.

* * *

Team Building

Yesterday, after attending a meeting with a private contractor, I came back to the office to participate in a World HR Day event. Full disclosure, I didn’t know that WHRD was a thing, and, in retrospect, I’m not sure it should be. Though I agree that effective HR is critical, I’m not sure having a dedicated day provides any value. In any case, I joined in and mustered up some enthusiasm. I provided some introductory remarks and then the small group of staff who attended proceeded to engage in a team-building activity. It was in Somali, so I didn’t get the full gist, but it was something similar to charades. Though I'm not a big fan of team-building games, it was nice getting together with the team. 

Elections

The month of May brings some turmoil, most notably for me in Somalia where I work. Without going into details, it’s a scenario very familiar to those who live in Africa. A sitting government that looks to game the system such that it can stay in power and give the appearance of legitimacy. A normally fractured opposition unites to resist against the regime that holds the cards (and the military). Armed resistance is viewed as the only recourse. Civilians pay the price.

This is my third election season since I began working in the country. Each time has been tense. Each time has resulted in some degree of violence but nothing that has become widespread. I suppose that could be considered progress.

This has played out across the continent time and time again. With no systems to provide accountability, there is nothing to break the pattern. Sometimes it results in widespread violence. Sometimes minor skirmishes. Sometimes apathy in a population that feels powerless in the face of no prospects for change.

The US is preparing to celebrate its 250^th anniversary. The irony is not lost on those watching America from the outside. The hard work and brilliance that created governmental systems that have been the admiration of populations around the world are now being voluntarily eroded to the considerable shock and dismay of onlookers. The founding fathers who are being lauded, are, at the same time, having their brilliance dismantled piece by piece. It may sound fun and harmless in the beginning, but even those attempting to benefit from this dismantling will likely live to regret these efforts.

“It is difficult to free fools from the chains they revere.” - Voltaire, philosopher and writer (1694-1778)

* * *

By contrast, in the UK this is playing out differently. Voters have spoken at the local levels and the fallout is bubbling up to the highest levels. No one is trying to game the system. It is what it is. Interestingly, it’s also the unhappiness with those at the highest levels that have trickled down to the local level as top and bottom seem to be influencing each other simultaneously.

A friend and former colleague of mine has been a Labour MP in Scotland for several years. Though MPs were not on the ballot, she is stepping down as local elections in her constituency have heavily voted for non-Labour parties. The people have spoken. Though she’s obviously disheartened, at least the system maintains its integrity, regardless of how one feels about the results.

* * *

So tensions mount in Somalia. Protests have begun. Crackdowns have also begun. Frustrations are mounting. In this country, people often handle things with violence so we’ll need to watch this space. Though I was advised to stay away for the past couple of weeks, I’m now getting the green light to return. But I need to limit my movements until further notice. After doing this sort of thing for a couple decades, I have a good sense of what is safe and what isn’t. But there is always that element of unpredictability. I’m increasingly looking forward to the day when I don’t have to do this anymore.

 

“Seven blunders of the world that lead to violence: wealth without work, pleasure without conscience, knowledge without character, commerce without morality, science without humanity, worship without sacrifice, politics without principle.” – Mahatma Gandhi (1869-1948)

storm clouds brewing...

 

Kajiado

I’m sure that a lot of people feel this way. But one thing is certain, no matter how committed I am to being in either Nairobi or Mogadishu, nor how many meetings or events I attend, I am certain to miss out on things in the location where I am not. In fact, even when I am in one of those two locations, I miss things due to key events that are happening simultaneously. I can end up with three important events all happening at the same time and then the following afternoon have no external obligations at all. Anyway, you prioritize, delegate and let the pieces fall where they may.

* * *

May Day

As a result, after burning the candle at both ends the past few weeks, I was needing some time to detox.

One side note, "Mayday" is the international voice distress signal for emergencies, used three times consecutively ("Mayday, mayday, mayday") in aviation and maritime communications. It originated in 1927 from the French phrase m'aider ("help me") which is pronounced somewhat like “mayday” in English. Though it has nothing to do with May Day (May 1), a spring festival and Labor Day recognized is much of the world, a long weekend break was an answer to my own distress signal.

Last Friday was May 1 and, conveniently, it’s a holiday recognized in the two countries where I work. As such, we were looking at some options to take advantage of the three days. It was too short to go to the coast. It’s also rainy season so we were hesitant to go camping. Safari trips can be muddy and a bit precarious. In the end, we found a remote cabin (B&B) about two and a half hours outside of Nairobi. We had never been there, but the reviews looked positive and more or less matched what we were looking for.

Kajiado

We loaded up the vehicle on Thursday afternoon and headed out. We have driven this road a couple times before on our way to Amboseli National Park. It basically runs due south before crossing into Tanzania.

The first part leaving Nairobi is now a toll expressway and allows you to gain quite a bit of time compared to before. But the road soon narrows and it’s a two-lane mess as you inch your way through congested towns for dozens of kilometers. The last forty-five minutes is on a rough dirt road that eventually led us to the remote cabin that would be our home for the weekend.

the cabin

We arrived late afternoon and after setting our bags down and scoping out the cabin, we settled in for a cup of tea.

tea on the swinging sofa

The cabin sits in a dense forested area. Trees and brush press up against the cabin on three sides. The flora has been topped on the back side allowing for some deck views of the hills behind. It has running water and solar power. There is no Wi-Fi but you can get cell reception. There is a small village about a kilometer away, but we never really went to it. You could occasionally hear voices off in the distance, along with the frequent mooing of cows, but there isn’t a lot going on in the area. There is, however, a marble quarry outside of the village which, I assume, serves as the primary economic driver for the community.

outdoor shower

The area is in Maasai country. Maasai are generally pastoralists and are primarily located in Kenya (primarily the south) and northeastern Tanzania. They have often been at odds with government authorities who would prefer they adopt a more sedentary lifestyle. Pastoralism tends to be ill-suited to a world with an increasing population density. It’s a lifestyle that is similar to much of Somalia where it manifests in similar tensions, only there it is sometimes resolved at gunpoint.

lesser masked weaver

African paradise flycatcher

blue-naped mousebird

There is wildlife around but not a great deal. We heard some hyenas during the night, and we were told that there are warthogs, impalas, gazelles, etc., but we never saw any. There were a lot of beautiful birds, and I have noticed that I take more photos of birds than I used to.

hyena tracks

The cabin came with a cook (James) which made life easier. Good for him too because it provides him with employment. I would say that we were generally pleased with his skills.

* * *

The Hike

The compound guard (Simon) led us on a hike to the top of a nearby hill. It wasn’t a long trek, but it was good to get some exercise and see a bit of the area. We followed Simon outside our fenced area and followed a small stream for a short distance. The trail then took us up into the hills that we could see behind our cabin. Simon informed us in Swahili that this was not necessarily a recreational trail but a path that links people to the more remote tiny villages (bomas). Small children make this arduous trek each day (over 5 km.) to access the only school in the area. We didn’t have rain on this particular day, but I could see that the combination of a heavy downpour and the steep slope would make the trail nearly impassable.

We didn’t see much wildlife, but we did come across some fresh hyena tracks. As nice as this place is, I would prefer to be someplace where we can see wild game. 

crazy looking bug in a beautiful flower along the trail

* * *

We spent most of the time relaxing, reading and eating. I’ve brought my guitar to continue my slow but steady progress towards generating something that resembles music. Without wireless connectivity in the house, it provided a great escape from civilization and a much-needed opportunity to clear the mind.