Galkacyo with Guests

The rains uncharacteristically continued into June. So did my travels.

My new-ish supervisor and I traveled to Somalia for her inaugural trip. We only had three nights to work with so I decided it would be best to focus on field operations (2 nights) and less on Mogadishu (1 night). Both are important and interesting, but I figured that the field visit would provide a more diverse perspective of our work in the country. I’d hate to guess how many visits like this I’ve led over the last 20 years but there have been many.

We caught the early flight from Nairobi to Mogadishu on a Saturday. While in the air, a massive storm hit Mogadishu. As we neared the airport, the pilot informed us that we would need to circle until there was enough visibility to land. There was zero visibility looking out the window, as if it was covered with gray paint.

The delay was less of a problem than it might have been given that the plane we were taking from Mogadishu to Galkacyo was the UN plane that we were on.

stream of water flowing through the modest UN airport facilities

Eventually we were cleared to land. However, while on the ground we were informed that there would be further delay before we could take off. We disembarked on a tarmac a couple of inches deep in flowing water. I quickly gave up on trying to stay dry. The hundred meter walk to the UN arrivals container was a mix of water, mud and sand.

At the waiting area - essentially a crowded, large container - multiple UN flights were awaiting the same permission to take off. After a muggy, damp wait, we were given the green light to begin making our way to Galkacyo.

* * *

Galkacyo

I’ve been to this area many times over the past several years, though my involvement in coordination mechanisms has required me to spend more time in Mogadishu. These trips do take significant chunks of time, largely due to the logistics involved in traveling. Flights are irregular and change frequently. Cancellations can set you back a day or two and your schedule needs to be a bit flexible. Some locations are worse than others. UN flights are considerably more dependable.

Galkacyo has an interesting history. It’s located near the border with Ethiopia at about midpoint between the Kenyan border in the south and the Gulf of Aden in the north. The town straddles the border between two states and has at times been the source of significant tension. On my first visit in 2017, it was impossible to drive across the infamous “green line” separating the two parts of the city. We landed at an airstrip on the north side but needed to cross to the south to where our office was located. As our “north” vehicle approached the border, we had to stop, get out of the vehicle, belongings in hand, and walk about 50 meters, get in another vehicle, all under the watchful gaze of armed guys facing the opposing sides. We could continue the rest of the way to the office, only to reverse the process two days later.

I’ve only experienced one tense moment while visiting. In 2018 during a visit, tensions flared up. The day I was scheduled to leave, I was to have a couple of meetings before heading to the airstrip. While in the first of the two, my security guy interrupted the meeting and told me that we needed to leave immediately. As I raced back to my room to retrieve my belongings, I still hadn’t been told what specifically has happened that necessitated the abrupt departure. This sort of thing rarely happens so I was understandably anxious. We zoomed out of the compound and headed in the opposite direction of the main road. I assumed it was because that was where the unrest was unfolding. We zigzagged on the dirt streets avoiding children, goats and donkey carts until we reached the green line. By this time there were agreements in place between the governments to allow us to remain in our vehicle as we crossed. We could now see smoke billowing in the distance. It made me a bit more at ease knowing that it was not in the direction that we were heading. Through the radio communications between the various security people, we were guided to a UN compound several kilometers outside town. We sheltered there for a couple hours until we were told that our UN flight was ready for boarding.

As I look back, it provides some helpful perspective as to how much things have changed – for the better. It can be disheartening at times because it sometimes feels that the situation is in perpetual decline. Though it’s not improving everywhere, there is evidence that there are pockets of improvement.

* * *

arriving in Galkacyo

Anticipating that there may be delays, I had limited expectations for day one. I only scheduled a late lunch (yummy goat and camel) and meeting with staff which we were able to fit in before the end of the day. We then settled in at the guesthouse and readied ourselves for an early start and long day in the vehicle the following day.

The next morning, we loaded up and headed out. We were in an uncomfortably large convoy of vehicles; I think eight in total. The more vehicles you have, the more visible you are. The more visible you are, the more at risk you are. In any case, I’ve done this with as many as nine without incident, but I try to avoid this sort of thing if possible. The one advantage, on the other hand, is that it’s easier to consolidate passengers in the case of a flat tire, as has happened on a previous trip to this same area. For security reasons, the driver stays behind to change the tire, the passengers squeeze into other vehicles and the convoy keeps moving.

Our first visit was to a women’s center. In addition to providing safe spaces for women, these facilities offer skills training and other protection and empowerment activities. We met with the women and were able to witness a few different skills development activities. Afterwards we walked across the village to a shop run by some women who benefited from one of our savings and loan groups. Very cool to see.

henna tattoos

always shadowed by these guys

Because of the tight schedule, we needed to move on. The next stop was a small health facility, sort of in the middle of nowhere. It’s amazing how these things keep running in spite of so many challenges, including limited resources. Of course, they always are seeking more funds to expand what they do. I would do the same if I were them.

The next stop was to a borehole that we rehabilitated a while back and installed solar panels to power the water pump. It was good to see that it was operating smoothly. We were even fortunate enough to see a pastoralist and his herd of camels taking advantage of the waterhole. Always nice when you have visitors for them to see the camels and witness the real benefits of the investments.

After the borehole, we made our way to another clinic, this one significantly more developed than the one we saw earlier. I visited this facility a couple years prior and was impressed by how clean and organized it was, particularly given its remote location. This would be our last visit before having a late lunch. On visits like this, the team organizes a meal with a local restaurant (sort of like a Somali truck stop) such that the food is ready to go. We can eat quickly and then get back on the road.  Always good to limit the amount of time you spend in any one location. Generally they organize for us to be in a separate room, away from the main restaurant, to make us less visible.

hits the spot after a day on the road

After our boiled goat and rice (it’s better than it sounds), we were on our way back to Galkacyo. We need to be off the road by 5pm you don’t want to play it too closely just in case something happens on the way. Fortunately, there were no issues on the drive and we were able to get back to the office/guesthouse in time. Dusty and sweaty, I was happy to be back and have the trip behind us. These things are stressful since so much can go wrong. But it went well and the team really did a good job hosting the visit.

poster in one of the clinics...

The next morning, we made our way to the airport. We would be traveling to Mogadishu with a plan to meet with the team in the afternoon and then travel to Nairobi the following day. In the end, we would be massively delayed and wouldn’t arrive in Mogadishu until after 6pm. Prior to take off, I notified staff that we would be unable to meet with them. As I mentioned before, you need to have measured expectations when traveling in Somalia. I was just happy to make it to Mogadishu the same day. It was my first time arriving after dark, which is not ideal.

The next day, we caught an early flight back to Nairobi. Mission accomplished.

May Rains

I suggested in my previous blog entry that January through June would be a non-stop flurry of activity. Indeed it was. As the weeks flew by, lots of travel and events absorbed my attention. Soon we would be on vacation and the flurry of activity would continue, albeit travel for very different reasons.

In order to continue to my effort to utilize this blog for archival purposes, I will need to back way up to events of May/June.

* * *

The month of May I spent mostly in Mogadishu. Part of it was due to a number of important events and part of it was making sure I was caught up on my connections with various people knowing that I was going on a long vacation.

One event was the establishment of a long-term arrangement with a local non-governmental organization (LNGO). A big priority of ours (and of the international community) is to empower local NGOs to increasingly carry the load of supporting communities in the country. This particular organization we’ve worked with for several years and they focus on support for women and girls. We’re hoping that our international access and technical expertise will continue to pair effectively with their local expertise and access. So far so good.

* * *

The rains continued throughout the month, more in Kenya than in Somalia. There was considerable flooding and it was a bit of a mess. Power lines toppled on the road in front of our house resulting in long periods without electricity. It’s common in Nairobi to lose power during the rainy season but this year it seemed to be worse.

running trail/stream resulting in some muddy shoes

May was also the month where I played laser tag for the first time. I admit it was pretty fun. It’s a great rainy season activity given the muddy conditions outside.

small but lethal

 

Ramadan, Easter and the Return of the Rains

As I begin this blog entry, I’m on a flight from Nairobi to Mogadishu. I’m sitting in the same seat on the same airplane where the woman passed away on a flight a few weeks ago. The incident still frequently invades my thoughts.

I likely won't finish this before we land but I'll at least start. 

The flight attendant, a Somali-Kenyan, is someone I’ve known for several years. He always takes good care of me – one of the perks of being such a frequent flyer I suppose. A few months ago, I inadvertently left something on the floor of the plane below my seat. Because he knew me and who I worked for, he was able to track me down. He connected me to the pilot whom I later met at a hotel in Nairobi to return the item. Nice.

A couple of guys behind me on the plane remind me that early in my time in Somalia, one of my staff told me that Somalis are talkers, often loud talkers. He connected it to centuries of oral tradition (quick fact: Somali wasn’t even a written language until 1972 and there was a debate at the time was whether to use Arabic script or Roman characters, eventually choosing the latter). Conversation is how things get done, face-to-face or by phone. Though I tend to guide a lot of work communication through written form (easier for me from a documentation and time management standpoint), I inevitably am drawn into sitting down to tea and sorting out the issues of the day. It does have an appeal, and it’s better for issues that are more sensitive in nature, but it can eat up your workday in a hurry. It’s also a challenge for me as a foreigner given the security situation and necessary logistics. I can’t just tell someone to meet me at a nearby coffee shop. I need an armored vehicle; there needs to be sufficient planning, and it needs to be in a location that has sufficient security. It's a hassle and it's expensive so such meetings are infrequent. Meeting within the "green zone" is easier, but it's costly for me to go there.

One example happened a few days ago. My security team pulled the plug on a meeting one of my staff had scheduled the day prior to have tea at a (well-fortified) place a few blocks from our office. I had just left the “green zone” where I was attending another meeting when the vehicle changed course and sped towards our office. My phone connection had dropped and the driver didn’t speak English so I didn’t know what was going on. I initially thought the driver was confused when in reality, I was the one. My security guy decided it wasn't safe. It’s not an uncommon event so I, nor anyone else gets too bent out of shape about it. You just make the necessary adjustments and move on.

* * *

Easter has come and gone. From January until June, it seems like it will be a non-stop flurry of activity. My time in Somalia has been more limited due to Ramadan and I’ve enjoyed the extra time with family. It came to an end with Eid being celebrated last week. As such, I will be away from home most of April and a large part of May. It’s not ideal but it’s what I do.

* * *

In the meantime, the rains have hit Kenya. It has been cool and wet. I like it and I like the fact that the weather is always changing this time of year. There can be tropical downpours followed by warm and sunny weather within minutes. It’s hard to plan activities and clothing, but that’s a minor inconvenience.

clouds bearing down on Mogadishu

I also realize that the rains bring problems for many people. Incessant mud, flooding, etc. can make this period long and arduous. All the while in Mogadishu it has been brutally hot. There were a few small rains but nothing substantial. Nowadays it’s hard to predict whether or not the rains will come, and if so how much. But the prediction for most of the country is a medium-to-heavy rainy season. We’ll see.

* * *

Some time has passed since I wrote the above text. I’ve been back and forth to Somalia a couple of times since. I’m now at the UN compound in the “green zone” doing some emails after having my first run in Somalia and my first dip in the ocean. It’s a surreal experience for those of us who live on the outside where security constraints make it feel a bit like being on "house arrest" most of the time. I’m sure these UN and other international staff who live here take it for granted. It was quite a special moment, to be honest. Given that I’ve been here for almost a week and a half (it can make you stir crazy), it was a wonderful break before heading back into town.

the coastline of Mogadishu - this part off limits to most

 * * *

Lastly, still on the topic of Somalia, I attended a World Immunization Week event a couple days ago. These events are rather frequent and I often need to share the responsibility of attending with others on my team. It can be a bit much since there seems to be a world day for about anything.

On this occasion I had shown up more or less on time, even knowing that these things are notoriously delayed. This one was a bit more punishing in that it ended up kicking off more than two hours after the scheduled start. 

This one was in a decent hotel and I didn't really mind. I occupied my time by networking with my UN, NGO and government counterparts. It was good to have the time to engage with them and the event itself is a very worthy cause. Vaccinating children is one of the most noble and important activities we do in this country.

can you find the non-African?

 

Interestingly, I never received an invitation. According to the Ministry of Health, it was a slip-up on their part. But I found out about it the night before from my deputy director and decided to attend anyway. Though I attempted to sit in the middle, I was ushered to the front row. I didn't have a suit and tie with me so I was hoping to sort of blend in with the crowd - also because I wasn't even invited.

As the speeches were beginning, the guy next to me pointed out that I was on the agenda as one of the speakers. Gasp. Wait, what? How did I get on the speaker list without even being invited? 

The next dilemma was deciding what to do. Do I quickly pull together a speech within the next five minutes, in my casual wear? Do I politely decline even though hard copies of the agenda with my name on it have been distributed throughout the room? To be honest, I would have wanted to speak. It's good visibility for us and I do have some things to say on the topic. On the other hand, without time to prepare, I may do more damage than good. I leaned over to one of the organizers and politely declined. I told him to invite me next time and I'll be happy to speak. I think he understood and, given that the event was so delayed, omitting a speech probably wasn't going to draw much attention or concern. 

In the end, I still ended up heavily present on social media and Somali news.