Thanksgiving-ish

Since my last posting on non-work life, we have ventured deep into the holiday season. I think I mentioned last year something about how businesses in Kenya have taken a page from the US and they start marketing Christmas in October/November. Thankfully, it’s not as in-your-face as it is in the US. Not yet.

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celebrating Diwali with friends (added to the holiday season)

As you might guess, Thanksgiving is not a thing in East Africa. Within some expat bubbles, it is. Americans, particularly US government employees, usually find ways to celebrate, typically with other Americans. Canadians celebrate as well, though for Canada it takes place on the second Monday in October.

There are different views as to whether the holiday represents something good (taking time to give thanks for blessings) or something bad (sordid history of the treatment of native Americans). Either way, the Canadian celebration is intertwined with that of the US. We both share blessings and some sordid history. We have some Canadian friends and we were discussing it a few weeks ago.

Though there are several accounts as to where and how the holiday began, it seems certain that the origins date to a time when North America didn’t have nation states.  Thus, it’s likely that the holiday didn’t cross a border. The border crossed the territory where the holiday was already being recognized, at least in some form. Having said that, with the American Revolution in the latter part of the 1800s, it does appear that some customs that were more prevalent in what is now the US (including some that are now associated with Thanksgiving), moved north with migrating British loyalists who wanted nothing to do with the newly independent American states. Both that and the phenomenon of modern marketing make the Thanksgivings what they are today.

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our half turkey

Over the nearly three decades of my life outside the US, I have celebrated about half of the Thanksgivings. It has usually depended on whether or not I have other Americans around me that are interested in celebrating it, which hasn’t always been the case. Because it is always recognized on a weekday, it has necessarily been on a workday for me. That generally sucks some of the festiveness out of it. One option has been to celebrate it the following weekend which we have done on occasion.

dinner with our friend Linda

The other challenge is to try to create a traditional dinner based on what is available wherever I have been. Given that turkey is the traditional main dish, and much of the world doesn’t have them, it can be complicated. Chicken is often the modest substitute. Nonetheless, this year we were able to obtain a half-turkey and our meal ended up being Thanksgiving-ish.

Don't Get Khat

This always the busiest time of year. For work, we generally have projects that are finishing at the end of December. As such, there is a flurry of activity to get things done before budgets need to be closed.

There are often loads of visitors between November and December as technical advisors look to carry out their visits before year’s end. This year, because the security situation in the country has been relatively good, we were inundated with visitors from late October until now. These visits come to a screeching halt by mid-December as much of the world prepares for travel around Christmas and New Year’s.

We also have loads of reports that are due. Thankfully, I don’t have to prepare them. But I do have to read and approve many of them.

All this is on top of a flurry of personal obligations. Holiday parties. End of year school events. And we generally have the monstrous winter travel awaiting us around the middle of December. It’s stressful for everyone and, sadly, it can suck much of the enjoyment from the season.

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Unfortunately, I still have work travel between now and the end of the year. Last week I was in Somalia carrying out my routine meetings and so forth. I like being in Somalia but some of the demands on my time can get annoying. Thankfully, I like my team and it makes it easier than it would be otherwise.

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Over my years of working in Somalia, I have seen glimpses here and there of the khat trade. At the airport, you see the planes, mostly from Kenya, unloading thousands of kilos of bulging burlap sacks each day in a special depot near the terminal.

Khat is a flowering plant native to eastern and southern Africa that contains a stimulant. Young shoots – easily identifiable by their red stems – are bundled and wrapped in banana leaves, packed in bags and loaded onto pickup trucks. Drivers then zip along roads at breakneck speed in an effort to ensure that the khat is fresh when it reaches consumers. Women generally serve as vendors, while men are predominately consumers.

khat seller in Garowe during my visit in 2017

Khat is usually chewed socially, particularly in the afternoon and early evening at tea shops along the main roads. Depending on how much you chew, it can cause greater sociability, excitement, loss of appetite and mild euphoria. It is banned, or at least heavily controlled, in many countries, in others it is not only permitted, it plays a culturally significant role. In Somalia, it’s consumed by a large segment of the male population but, according to some of my staff, we have few who partake regularly (though it’s unlikely they would admit it if they did).

It can have a devastating impact on society. In addition to sapping productivity (once you begin chewing, you’re more or less done for the day), it also is a drain on the economy. Because it’s not grown in Somalia, they import it by the ton and millions of dollars leave the economy each year. In Yemen, where they are able to grow the crop, it is estimated that 40% of their fresh water is dedicated to its cultivation.  

At times in Somalia, it is hotly debated. Imports from Kenya were banned in 2020 for a couple of years, partly due to Covid and partly due to some disputes between the two countries. But most knew it wouldn’t last. For the time being, imports are in full swing and, though there are some prominent voices who condemn consumption, they seem to be outnumbered. 

Racing off to market

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While waiting for my return flight to Nairobi, I was on the phone standing at a window near the gate.  I watched the bustle of activity around a newly arrived Qatar flight. To my left, a vehicle pulling a luggage trailer exited the terminal. As it hit a bump, the load was jostled and two suitcases tumbled to the tarmac. A man near the Qatar plane waved at the driver and pointed towards the fallen bags. He slowed, turned around, shrugged his shoulders, and carried on.

I’ve never checked a bag while flying to Mogadishu. I pack lightly and make sure it fits into my carry-on each time. All the more reason to continue doing so.

Halloween and Horses

Though my days, including much of my weekends, are often consumed with work, I do like to mix it up in the blog. As I have mentioned previously, the Somalia work week is Sunday through Thursday. For NY, Kenya and much of the rest of the world, it’s Monday through Friday. As such, it’s difficult for me to have a full day off except Saturday. And even then, stuff happens on Saturdays. It’s hard to ignore critical humanitarian support demands (approvals that need to come from me that support delivery of aid) just because they fall on a Saturday. So it’s rare that I would have a full day without any work at all. Not complaining. Just the way it is.

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Halloween

To go back a few weeks, we did find some time for the kids to partake in some Halloween fun. I realize that they are beginning to age out of this sort of the trick-or-treat thing, but, as when I was young, the treat part of it keeps it alive longer than you would think. It’s not like in the US where you can go door-to-door in the dark. There are many reasons that would not work in Nairobi. I’m quite sure that Americans take for granted how wonderfully safe it is there compared to most other countries. In any case, we were able to join some other families for a Halloween party, in spite of the fact that it’s not a thing in Kenya. 

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Diwali

A holiday that is a thing in Kenya is Diwali, largely due to the significant number of people with Indian origin. In case you’re not familiar with it, Diwali is the Hindu festival of lights. It symbolizes the spiritual "victory of light over darkness, good over evil, and knowledge over ignorance". Given what I see around the world, I would say that evil and ignorance seem to be winning. But it was celebrated anyway.

Fireworks from the roof

One thing that accompanies Diwali is an impressive display of fireworks. When the girls were young, it was a bit frightening since it was so loud and was most active when they were trying to go to bed. Now, of course, it’s a thrill for them. The last few years we have gone up to the roof of our building to watch. It was fun scanning the city to catch the fireworks popping up from various neighborhoods.

Diwali feast

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Horseback Riding

As rainy season is underway, in an El Nino year no less, you need to weave outdoor activities strategically into your week. Last weekend we took the girls horseback riding. They don’t have much experience with this sort of thing but they seemed to be keen on learning. There are a few stables around Nairobi. There is apparently a long legacy of riding that goes back to colonial times, but it has been vigorously embraced by Kenyans as well as foreigners.

Riding "western" style in Indiana back in 2019

The US does a lot of things differently from the rest of the world, including horseback riding where it is usually called “western riding”. It evolved mostly from utilitarian purposes such as hunting, working with livestock or engaging in war. Riding for sport or as a leisure activity came later and has taken shape in the modern rodeo. There are a number of things about western riding that are different from most of the rest of the world but probably the most notable is the saddle. There is generally a deeper seat and a horn on the front (traditionally used for attaching a rope tied to a lassoed calf, for example). 

English, or classical riding, also has roots in hunting (ex. fox hunts) but was adapted for less aggressive sports such as show jumping and dressage. Helmets are generally worn rather than cowboy hats, often required, as in our case.

There was a considerable amount of rain the night before so we were hoping that precipitation wouldn’t scuttle our morning ride. But the morning was mostly sunny and, with the exception of copious amounts of mud, the ride went off without a hitch. The girls loved it. Could it be a new hobby? We’ll see. 

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As we head towards the holiday season, there is evidence of it in Nairobi. It's not colder temperatures. We're in the southern hemisphere so we're headed in the opposite direction. Usually, the visible manifestation has something to do with marketing. One somewhat humorous example is a billboard I saw the other day announcing a Black Friday sale. In a country without Thanksgiving. I'm quite sure most people in Nairobi don't know what Black Friday is but someone saw fit to copy the American marketing ploy anyway. 

Sitting in a coffee shop noticing a meat delivery truck. Meat? delivery.