Somalia Update

As I write this, I’m in Mogadishu. I woke this morning to the sound of rain. It has happened before but it doesn’t happen that often. After five failed rainy seasons, you wonder if there will ever be a good, solid rain again. For now, at least in some of the more southern parts of the country, we’re getting some precipitation.

Prior to this trip, as I was preparing my travel documents, it occurred to me that I had four upcoming international trips booked. I think that’s my record. I’ve had three before but I don’t remember having four separate trips on the horizon. It’s good and bad. I realize the environmental impact that travel has and I look forward to the day when I can stop doing this sort of thing, or at least cut back to one or two trips a year rather than a couple trips per month.

* * *

There hasn't been any major news on the Somalia side of things, relatively speaking. Indeed, the figures of those in desperate need have begun to drop. We’re not out of the woods by any means. Livelihoods have been lost through the decimation of camel/goat herds. They cannot be rebuilt quickly. Same with farmers in the southwest. Crops have been lost and it will take time to replant and hopefully boost agriculture production. Thousands upon thousands have been displaced, most of whom have no intention of returning to their villages. There is now a massive burden on urban areas to sort out how to care for the influx. But there is a sense that things are improving, at least in the short term.

rain on the way

But the military offensive against militants continues, with a likelihood of a new phase beginning soon. Some view such news with mixed feelings as intense fighting generally breeds further insecurity in civilian areas and more displacement. It’s never ending.

We push on, not only responding to needs in communities where we normally operate but also pushing deeper into the country to bring relief to people in their communities of origin, trying to prevent displacement before it happens. This isn’t easy as we need to make sure we, or our local partner organizations, are not put in harms way.

meetings in facilities with a view - a bit different from where I work/stay

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One big focus is on maintaining funding levels as the spotlight drifts away from Somalia. The situation in Sudan went to hell in a hurry. The world’s leaders (generally men) continue to foster the myth that disagreements must be resolved by the gun. In the US, the myth is continually perpetuated without an understanding of how things really work. In case the rash of mass shootings isn't sufficient an indicator, one can point to places I've lived and worked as another indicator of how things work when society is laden with assault weapons and people learn that it is how issues are resolved. It has never worked.

Masai Mara

Every year in February, our girls have two weeks of school vacation at the French school. When I was working in Switzerland, it was the same. Given Switzerland’s proximity to France, and possibly also due to the fact that western Switzerland is French-speaking and influenced by French culture, there was almost more in common with France than the majority German-speaking population in the country.

Back then it was called “vacances blanches” or “white vacation”. Rather than have some sort of racial implication (wouldn’t surprise me if it was called something else now), it was a reference to the fact that it was mid-winter. For much of the affluent country, it meant heading to the alps for a ski holiday. For our kids, skiing is out of the question. While Kenya offers a wonderful array of activities for people on vacation, skiing isn’t one of them.

Given my work demands, I can’t afford to take much time off. So we basically needed to do something over a long weekend. We considered a few different options including camping, hiking, safari and going to the beach. In the end, safari won. I think all four of us felt the desire to be back out on a game drive, roaming about the Kenyan countryside taking in the animals and landscape.

For me, the experience of being on safari is rivaled only by time in the mountains. It’s not for everyone. I’m aware that there are people who tire quickly of the bumpy roads, the dust, chilly mornings, hot afternoons, infrequent toilet access, stretches where you’re not seeing animals, or not seeing the animals you want to see, etc. In all honesty, I rarely think of those things. I tend to get so captivated by what I’m seeing around me that the time flies by. The game drive usually comes to an end before I’m ever weary of it.

The safari vehicle came to pick us up early on Friday morning. We would drive the five or so hours to the Masai Mara. The plan was to enter the national park and do a mini game drive as we made our way to the tented camp where we would stay.

The Mara is not new to us. The first time we went was while we were still living in Bujumbura. Burundi, having long since eaten 99% of it’s wildlife (and cursed with a high population density on a deforested piece of land about the size of the US state of Maryland), has no game parks. After years of being spoiled while we were living in Tanzania, and not knowing at the time that we would ever live in Kenya, we were anxious to return to this beloved pastime. It was the first time we had gone since we had children. It certainly changes the experience. Even though we had brought plenty of children’s books and other distractions, I was pleasantly surprised to see how much they were into it, finding and identifying animals, etc. They love it even more now.

* * *

Masai gathered at the gate

As we entered the Mara, we quickly began to see zebras, gazelles, impalas, baboons and warthogs. We saw a few wildebeest but they were few in number. Most people are aware of the Great Migration – the greatest wildlife “traveling roadshow” on earth. It’s known as one of the seven wonders of the modern world. Each year, over two million wildebeest, zebra and some topi, elands and gazelles, migrate from the southern Serengeti in northeastern Tanzania to the lush green grasses of the Masai Mara (in fact the Serengeti and the Mara are the same piece of savanna with a country border bisecting it). Essentially, they are following the rains and the resulting food supply. They make an 800,000 kilometer (500,000 mile) clockwise trek from Tanzania, to Kenya and back. Tourists flock to the Mara to see the famous crossing of the Mara River (as we did during the pandemic in 2020), replete with hungry crocodiles who also enjoy this phenomenon every year.

waterbuck

As such, many of the animals mentioned above are currently in the Serengeti this time of year. But with Kenya’s rains (theoretically) coming soon, the animals, starting in July and winding down in October, will head northeast and the Mara animal population becomes denser.

Kinaya tracking the giraffe

But there is no shortage of wildlife in the Mara at any time of year. It’s really a magical place. It was a treat to be back, smell the air, and enjoy the African savanna.

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ok, I didn't take this one; the tented camp from above; we stayed in one on the left side

We arrived at camp early afternoon. We had time to quickly check in and have a bite to eat. It’s located on the Mara River near hippo pools. From the edge of the camp you could look down and seek all kinds of wildlife, including loads of hippos, a few crocodiles, birds, etc. It was our first time to this particular tented camp and we were duly impressed.

nice perk when on safari

After lunch we went to our “tent”, dropped off our bags and I quickly changed and headed to the pool. In fact we had a relatively short turnaround before we would have tea (3:30pm) and then back in the safari vehicle for the early evening game drive (4pm). So I was keen to take a dip after being in the safari vehicle most of the day. The rest of the family wasn’t interested, likely given the limited amount of time, but it ended up being well worth it. The water was clean, a bit cool but near perfect for what I was wanting. It’s quite the treat when you’re on safari to have a nice pool, I have to say – a good complement to the game drives.

Soon we had our tea and biscuits (cookies) and headed out on the evening game drive.

Mostly sunny but some dark clouds on the horizon. Not yet rainy season. Saw some lions but soon became preoccupied with what looked to be an impending storm. Never been rained out before. Though many animals are still out in the rain, many seek the shelter of trees. The open top of the vehicle is down. We thought it might pass but soon realized we were done.

the storm that would eventually be upon us

We returned to the wet camp, showered and made our way to the main area. We each ordered a drink and walked down to the edge of the camp overlooking the river. It was dark and the moon was out. Fireflies were zigzagging nearby, outside the lights of the camp. Though not visible in the dark, you could hear the hippos grunting, snorting and occasionally splashing water just below.

damp impalas

The night was quiet except for the sound of crickets and the occasional yelp of hyenas off in the distance. The were a few lion groans quite a ways away. I tried to stay awake to listen but eventually succumbed to sleep.

* * *

The next morning, we were up at 5:45am. We had a quick coffee/hot chocolate and headed out by 6:30. There are different ways of organizing a safari trip. One sort of standard way is to do an early morning game drive, return by about 8:30 for breakfast, chill at the camp and then do an evening game drive before dinner. That’s generally what we do. Another option is to have breakfast, leave a bit later, take boxes lunches and then stay out all day. While the latter allows you to go longer distances, it can get a bit long, particularly if you have children. Also, more interesting lighting and animal activity happens at the bookends of the day. Animals tend laze around in the heat of the day so that’s what we do.

Masai Mara sunrise

We were blessed with a beautiful sunrise as we hit the open road. There were five or so hot air balloons on the horizon. It would be fun to do someday (quite expensive) but a memorable experience. 

hot air balloons above the savanna

* * *

Fairly soon we came upon two female lions who were munching on a fresh warthog kill. We didn’t see the kill but we couldn’t have missed it by much. A few years ago, we would distract the girls from such scenes, handing them books and toys to avoid traumatizing them. Now it’s not a big deal and they seem to contextualize it. Cycle of life.

breakfast

We were alone until a second vehicle approached. Thankfully, the two of us were all that there would be. And things were about to get interesting.

As the lions were working on their breakfast, a few hyenas and a jackal looked on longingly. While the jackal had no chance of getting a seat at the table, the hyenas, with their powerful jaws, always stand a chance if they could outnumber lions. As such, they yipped and howled, hoping to call in reinforcements. Within a few minutes, more hyenas appeared on the horizon and their numbers swelled to more than a dozen. It’s a tough call for the hyenas since you want enough teammates to overtake the lions and get the meat. But the greater the number, the more there will be vying for the prize in the case of victory. The second you chase away the lions, your teammates become opponents. And the warthog, unlike a wildebeest or buffalo, wouldn’t be a lot of food for this many hungry hyenas, particularly after the lions had had their way with it for quite some time.

don't like people staring at me when I eat

As the hyenas felt numbers were beginning to work in their favor, you could feel the tension rising. They inched closer to the lions who were still aggressively ripping away at the carcass. They were well aware of what was likely coming, keeping the hyenas in the corner of their eyes. There were a few half-hearted attempts by the hyenas which were repelled by the lions. Finally, the boldest of the hyenas decided that it was their moment. The first one lunged towards the lions, followed almost immediately by the others. Chaos ensued. 

battle royale; note the hyena biting the lion's right hip

One of the lions seemed to be doing most of the fighting. The other, quickly assessing that it was game over, trotted off to avoid the powerful jaws of the aggressors. Within seconds, it was all over. The defeated lions walked away with blood-stained faces and bellies replenished (though probably not as much as they would have wanted).

The hyena-on-hyena frenzy began almost before the lions had retreated. Yelping. Nipping at each other. They’re rather vicious creatures. Apparently they don’t mind killing one of their own if the need arises. The whole scene was a lot to take in, activity happening on all sides of the vehicle.

a sea of hyenas; note the jackal keeping his distance

All the while the drama was unfolding, the lonely (and hungry) jackal kept his distance. He didn’t stand much of a chance, really. He looked rather pitiful, small and alone. As the hyena battle unfolded, he surprisingly bolted towards a piece of the carcass and fled with his prize. The hyenas had no interest in sharing with each other, let alone a jackal. Not long after making his escape, he was caught. Two hyenas fought for the stolen meat and the jackal stood and watched. Must have been even worse for the poor guy. His empty stomach was now combined with the taste of warthog in his mouth.

biding his time

There wasn’t much to see as the hyenas finished off the shredded carcass. We hoped that the jackal ended up with something but that seemed unlikely given the number and thoroughness of the hyenas.

* * *

Kiran photographing elephants

As we pulled away, I looked at my watch and noticed that the whole scene took a bite out of our schedule. We ended up seeing some more lions, including several cubs, and loads of other animals before making our way back to camp for breakfast. It’s a great way to start the day, and it wasn’t even 9am.

elands

After breakfast, we headed to the pool. I have to admit, that’s a pretty nice perk for a safari trip. It was sunny and warm and the water was clean and not too cold. It was bliss. And we still had a game drive to come in the late afternoon.

* * *

We had tea and headed out at 4pm as scheduled. The evening drive consisted of more lion sightings. It’s always a thrill to me to see these creatures in the wild. To be on their territory. I have mentioned previously that we took the girls to a zoo a couple years ago and they found it somewhat shocking. They’ve grown up seeing these animals roaming free and to see them in captivity for the first time is quite sad. It’s wonderful for people who would otherwise never see these animals in the flesh. I’m not anti-zoo. In fact zoos often have strong partnerships with national parks around the world, many with arrangements where they support each other. But for those who have the chance to see them in the wild, it’s amazing.

the king

We finished the by drive tracking a large pride of lions that seemed to be heading in the direction of a herd of buffaloes. Unfortunately we weren’t the only ones. Unlike the battle royale that morning between the hyenas and the lions where we only shared the experience with one other vehicle, we were now in a sea of around 30 Land Cruisers, some more aggressive than hyenas. It’s a sad reality that even in an environment as serene as this, asinine human behavior is still on display. There were drivers who were blocking the path of the lions to try to get good photos. They cut each other off on the roads. Tourists make noise. Our guide said that there have been efforts to try to reign in this behavior but they haven’t been successful. Clearly.

tracking buffaloes

We all watched. Waited. As the lions moved, we all moved with them, inching slowly in the direction of the herd. Everyone was anticipating something big to happen as the sun moved lower on the horizon. But the lions were taking their sweet time. It soon became apparent that time was not on our side. National parks have a curfew and those who were staying in camps that were farthest away needed to head out sooner. One by one, vehicles bailed from the scene. We were hoping for some poetic justice – that some spectacular drama might unfold after the obnoxious safari groups disappeared. Alas, it was not to be. Eventually, we also began making our way back to camp as darkness was setting in. We would find out the next day that, for whatever reason, that pride with so many mouths to feed, came up empty that night. We saw them the next morning, gaunt and hungry. Not sure how you can miss with such a large, badass group of females like they had but it’s possible.

After a hot shower, we gathered at the firepit and had some wine/ice tea. Lightning flashed in the partly cloudy night sky. After dinner we headed to bed. During the night, not far away I could hear the yelp of hyenas. Further away there were a few lion groans as well. I do love that sound. Awesome day.

* * *

Our last morning, in the interest of time, we opted to switch it up a bit. We packed and headed to breakfast by 6:30 before heading out on our last game drive. The idea was to avoid needing to return to camp, meandering our way towards the exit. We needed to be at the gate by about 10:30am to avoid paying for another day of park fees.

The day would be relatively low-key. We saw the pride of lions from the day before and watched their cubs wrestling with each other and occasionally with their mothers. We spent quite a bit of time just driving and enjoying the last hours of our safari before heading back to Nairobi.

We did get to see a couple of cheetahs lying in the shade of an acacia tree. They are my favorite animal, though on this occasion they weren’t very entertaining. Unlike the lions we saw earlier in the morning, these brothers (apparently they were a pack of five when they were a bit younger) had a successful night (or morning) on their hunt. Their bellies were massive and it appeared that they could barely move. The guide inquired out loud about what would happen when the sun moved and one of them lost his shade. Would he fight off his postprandial stupor, get up and shift positions? Given that we had sat admiring them for quite some time, there was time for us to receive an answer.  One of the brothers slowly made it to his feet, slowly walked a short distance and lay back down fully in the shade. That was about as entertaining as it got.

fat and happy

From there we drove another hour or so but nothing eventful happened. We made our way to the gate and began the drive back to Nairobi. It was sad to leave such a wonderful and serene environment but duty called. Great weekend though.