21 years in East Africa and counting...

Thursday, March 9, 2023

Baidoa

We’re nearing the one-year anniversary of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. I don’t mention other crises much in the blog given that I’m thrust in the middle of the crisis in Somalia. I think I’ve only mentioned the war insofar as it has impacted the situation in the Horn of Africa.

In Somalia, the humanitarian crisis is compounded by conflict. On one hand, it’s understandable. There are fewer resources and it raises the temperature as groups arm themselves to make sure that their respective communities do not go without.

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I just completed a visit to what is considered the “epicenter” of the severe drought in Somalia. Basically it’s a town of about ## that has been inundated with hundreds of thousands of people from other areas where drought and/or conflict has driven them from their homes.

Baidoa town

They reside in ramshackle housing, based in theory on age-old traditional Somali housing – dome-shaped tents made by planting a circle of thin branches in the ground pointing upwards about 8-15 high (corresponding to the diameter of the structure). The tops of the branches are then pulled towards each other in the middle creating the frame for the dome shape. Brush is then gathered and woven between the branches to strengthen the frame. The final step is to find material to use for the outer shell which overlays the frame. Traditionally this was done through thatching. But these days, things tend to get a bit messy. In ideal conditions, international community and step in and provide plastic sheeting to provide protection from the elements and also enhance privacy. Unfortunately, the numbers of these structures far outnumber the available resources. As such, people pull together whatever they can find to cover the frame. I’ve seen about anything being used: old clothing, cans (tops/bottoms removed with cylinder flattened out), plastic bags, etc., anything that will cover any holes. As sad looking as they are, they are quite functional and their rounded shape makes them resilient to heavy winds. They tend not to do well as protection against rain but that, unfortunately, hasn’t been an issue.

walls of a clinic; injury art on the left

My visit was routine in the sense that I did what I normally do during these trips. I meet with staff/leadership, meet with government officials, visit our activities and inform myself about the situation on the ground and what kind of support is needed from my end.

The key takeaways were pretty obvious. We’re in our third year of drought. Water sources are rapidly drying up. People are still flocking to bigger towns in order to access humanitarian support. Resources are overstretched. Focus is now riding on the hope that by reducing allocations, we can potentially bridge the gap until the next rains fall – normally not until April. It’s terribly stressful given that the rainy seasons have been so weak that there’s a strong chance that what we are doing is unsustainable. If rains don’t come this season, we’re likely to see a step change in the humanitarian impact of this drought. It’s a very scary situation.

housing of those who have been displaced by drought and/or conflict

I was taken to one area where I’ve been three times in the last six months. It’s been interesting to see the progress. When I arrived six months ago, it was an intense period of new arrivals of people desperately seeking aid. They were arriving by the dozens each day. The looks on the faces of the people were startling. Gaunt and weary, some had traveled on foot or on donkey cart for dozens up to a couple hundred kilometers. Most were drought displaced though many fled their homes due to conflict. Some left to avoid their sons being taken as child soldiers. Nutrition screening was taking place under the hot sun given that there was no shelter. There were no latrines so people were defecating in the brush outside the camp, exposing women and girls to protection risks. Water was being trucked in regularly to fill a couple of large bladders connected to water taps. We were all doing our best to stave off the ever-looming famine conditions.

queues for water rations

By my visit in December, the numbers of ramshackle tents stretched as far as the eye could see. Those that had been there longer had settled in and, according to my discussions with some of the residents, were receiving enough aid to at least have one meal per day. We had built a shelter for nutrition screening of new arrivals and the requested latrines had been constructed (though were far from adequate by they time they were completed). Though meant to be temporary, history shows that these encampments eventually become permanent as climate change and high birth rates prevent people from returning to the livelihoods (pastoralism and agriculture) that had sustained their ancestors for hundreds of years. There just isn’t enough water.


Upon arrival this time, things were even more developed. A safe space for women had been constructed. There were women and girls inside learning math. As I approached the building, I could hear laughing and chanting. When I reached the doorway, they began clapping. They were obviously informed that I was coming and that could have contributed to the ambiance. They likely don’t get that many external visitors like this.


As I observed the class, several thoughts entered my head. The first was, of course, the joy that seemed to palpitate from the space. The contrast with what I experienced in December was rather dramatic. Despondent children milled about the dilapidated housing with nothing to do. The mood was bleak, though not as bleak as when I was there in September when the bulk of them had just arrived, but bleak nonetheless. Hopelessness is a horrible thing. And it’s contagious. You’ve lost everything and now it’s a matter of survival. Whatever aspirations you had were dashed as you’re simply focused on surviving.


It’s hard to describe how good it felt to see them giggling, chanting, etc. At the same time, thoughts entered my head that thousands of others still don’t have their basic needs met. These investments, as simple as they are, are contrasted with other camps where there is little or no response by the international community. Everyone is moving as quickly as possible but gaps remain. Coordination is improving. But we’re all in fear that the humanitarian support will drop off as donor governments get distracted by other crises.

* * *

After the visit, we headed back towards town and stopped at a different camp that we support. This one had received less support. When asked why the discrepancy, I was told that part of the reason is that this camp is a bit more unruly. There’s a lot of dissension due in part to the lack of homogeneity in the clan mix. And more crime apparently. As such, I was told that it’s more complicated to distribute aid. I did see some latrines that we’d built and a couple of bladders where people were filling up their jerrycans. I asked the camp leader and he said that they were receiving some cash support and food from WFP, though not enough. But at least their getting some assistance.

During the brief stop, I spotted this woman that I had seen the previous visit. It might be a coincidence that she was at the water point, or maybe she just hangs out there. But she had a distinct face that helped me to recognize her out of thousands of people.


This time I spoke to her. I told her that I remembered her from December. She smiled and told me that she remembered me as well. I guess we were both distinct in our own ways. Not only am I obviously a foreigner, I show up with a very visible armed escort. I’m not the only one roaming about with loads of security, but it’s probably not an everyday occurrence.

I asked her about the support she’s been receiving. As expected, she said that she’s barely getting by. My colleague was translating for me (she was speaking Maay, pronounced “my”, a dialect in southern regions of Somalia) and I noticed that he used the first-person singular in the translation. It jumped out at me since it would be uncommon in this context for someone to discuss these matters in individual terms. One would generally make reference to the community or at least their family. I turned to my colleague and asked if she really did use the first-person. He confirmed that she did but then turned to her for clarification. She responded that she was indeed alone. She didn’t offer any explanation as to why, only that she had joined some of her community, catching a lift on a donkey cart, as they fled their remote village in search of humanitarian support.


The camp leader told me that she gets some support from the community. They apparently help her with some food and other things here and there. It was quite sad, to be honest. This is a horrible situation for anyone to experience, but to go through this in the later years of your life alone, I can’t imagine.

* * *

my chariot awaits...

After a couple nights, I was headed back to Mogadishu. Happy to see the work that we’re doing at the heart of the drought response. Troubled by the devastating crisis that continues. Anxious as to whether or not we might get some rain in the coming months. Time will tell.


Jill Biden visiting Nairobi, on the tarmac as we arrived. Slightly different chariot...(flanked by very cool Osprey planes not in the photo)

Saturday, February 4, 2023

Mogadishu

I’m in Mogadishu again. It was critical to get back soon after returning from the US. As we moved into the new year, and through a lot of hard work, we have achieved a funding level never before managed by this office. It’s possible that it may continue to grow a bit over the next few months. It’s good for us, in the sense that it means more aid to the country. But it does mean more work as well as some possible need to restructure the organization.

I arrived a couple of weeks ago, picking up where I left off in December. It would be a longer stay than normal. My guess is that the abundance of meetings has something to do with a lot of post-holiday coordination – catching up in the new year. Having said that, given that Somalia is a Muslim country, the holidays have much less impact than they do in other contexts. The train just keeps on moving.

I should mention that while I’ve been typing, I’ve heard some explosions. While it could be from a military training facility not far away, this sounded a bit different. I’ve sadly picked up somewhat of a keen ear for such sounds.

Sure enough, after a quick check of my phone, it’s confirmed that at least four mortar shells landed near the presidential compound. No word at this point if there have been casualties.

It’s an eerie thing to be in a place that is undergoing such attacks. It’s happened to me several times. I don’t get the sense that I’m in danger. Chances of getting hit are incredibly slim. It’s more the speculation as to what is happening where they do hit. Interestingly, and thankfully, there have been few such attacks that have resulted in casualties. Surprising in such a densely populated city.


By the time I finished drafting this, at least two more landed on the exact opposite side of us, in the airport “green zone”. I happened to be taking a break and getting some air on the roof (some might say that’s rather stupid at times like this) and saw the smoke beginning to billow from one of the explosions.

There is a high-level meeting taking place in Mogadishu specifically discussing ridding the Horn of Africa from terrorism. The shelling is most certainly a not-so-subtle wink from the terrorists. Though there were some injuries, no deaths were reported.

There has subsequently been some online mockery as a result of the extensive road closures and flight cancellations over the course of two days, frustrating residents and businesses. Observers alluded to the excessive actions taken in the interest of security that, in the end, didn’t address the threat.

* * *

another great lunch at the Lido

Otherwise, the trip has gone smoothly, at least by Mogadishu standards. There were several coordination meetings hosted by the UN. I had a visitor from our regional office that we entertained by taking her to our traditional lunch place on the beach. I love the fact that I’m one of the few international residents that has security clearance to do such things. It’s also important for my team to be able to show off their city and drive home this idea that Somalia, while certainly having its issues, also has some amazing beauty. As I’ve mentioned in the past, it has the longest coastline in Africa (not counting the island of Madagascar) and tremendous potential.

cool shop, driving across Mogadishu

I’ve also begun going out for tea at the end of the workday from time to time. It’s a nice break since security doesn’t allow me to move about without an armored vehicle. Sharing a Somali tea (black tea with musty camel milk and loads of sugar) with a couple colleagues gives me a small sense of “normality” in what is very much not a normal environment for a Westerner.
Somali tea - shaah (black tea with camel milk, cardamom and loads of sugar)

* * *

Among the many meetings I had in the protected “green zone”, was an opportunity to meet with the US Ambassador to the UN (along with the US Ambassador to Somalia). Five heads of agencies for international organizations were invited to a 45-min. meeting to discuss the severe drought in Somalia. Given her role, the conversation focused more on UN relations, policy, security, etc. rather than ground-level aid delivery. As she was coming to the end of several days on the continent (and admittedly some lack of sleep), she held her own over the course of the meeting. She would only have a press conference after our meeting before hopping on her plane and heading out.

meeting with the ambassadors

* * *

One question that loomed in my head as the second week wore on was whether I be able to get a flight out at the end of the week after two days of airport closure. Though I already had a reservation, a booking in Somalia sometimes feel more like a “suggestion of interest” rather than a paid-for right to a seat on an airplane. The plane may or may not have a seat for you when you arrive at the airport. The plane may have your seat, but for some reason won’t fly until much later in the day, or even the next day. Or, the airline may have your seat and it will leave more or less on time, but when you walk out to the tarmac, you realize that the plane is from a different airline. There are limitless possibilities as to how things might play out. And after the closure, the possibility of the airline bumping me for someone of greater importance gave me some concern.

As it turned out, I did indeed get my seat.