Back in Nairobi

We’re back in Nairobi and settling back into our routines. The girls have been back in school for a few weeks and I’m full-on back at work. I’m tracking news again with the same vigor that I do normally when I’m not on vacation. It’s partially because I need to track news for my job but it’s also something that I’ve done for decades. I began to take an interest in reading and what was going on around me (outside of the sports world) when I lived in Switzerland in the late 80s and early 90s. As bad and depressing as the news is, I’m more at ease knowing what’s going on than not.

As a child, I remember my father turning on the evening news around 5pm. It would make my eyes roll and often prompt me to change rooms. But I remember sometimes taking in some of the information. Having a screen on, especially at that time, it was hard sometimes to avert my eyes. I remember passively catching bits here and there. There was the waning days of the Vietnam War (including ongoing totals of US war dead) and dramas in the Middle East. I remember hearing about the Cold War and Watergate though I had little understanding of what was going on at the time. I would overhear my parents' occasional comments, some of which would sink in. But it wouldn't be until many years later that life as an expat would play a key role in clearing the fog from my brain.

My children do the same. But they’re more curious than I was at their age and they have an infinitely better frame of reference to start with. We also spend quite of bit of time and energy providing them “teaching moments”. It’s hard to frame some of these complex situations in a way that a child can understand (in spite of the childish behavior of people in power), but over time they will at least know the basics. It’s important, not only that we are preparing them for rapidly approaching adulthood, but even now some of these issues are impacting their lives. Some events are taking place in countries where their friends are from. Some things might impact their dad’s job or their aunt’s job. In addition to living in an important East African hub, through globalization and the inter-connectivity provided by the internet, their proximity to the rest of the world is far closer than mine was in a small corner of Idaho several decades ago.  

the nightly pre-bedtime read - this time, Harry Potter

While at my parents’ house, I was reading a calendar with the theme, “You know you’re a hillbilly if…”, followed by some humorous description, often stereotype, of rural America. One that caught my attention was one that said, “…the only books in your house are propping up a table.” It is funny but I think it reflects a certain uninformed bravado that I find puzzling and potentially dangerous. Admittedly, we didn’t have much literature in our house growing up, but there was no defiance of the literate – equating literacy to elitist and elitist to out-of-touch, and thus being informed would be seen as negative. On the contrary, there was a strong pursuit of information. My parents were tracking news, religiously reading newspapers and my dad was always scanning brochures, maps, etc. I think that curious nature, combined with a strong puritan work ethic, were conveyed to us and it was up to us what we did with it. All five children have master’s degrees or higher and have done alright professionally. I'm happy that education and critical thinking are valued in my family, in spite of them being in a context where there's often a puzzling lack of these qualities.

* * *

In Somalia, to some degree it reflects the old adage, “the more things change, the more they stay the same.” Election drama has been amped up again as tension between the president and prime minister grows. The historically complex and multilayered context, as in many countries, continues to polarize. Fallout could be serious, particularly in and around Mogadishu if partisan troops are mobilized. So far it’s mostly political power plays on both sides. We watch in the hope that level heads will prevail.

The pandemic continues to wreak havoc though it’s unclear how bad the situation is. People tend to not talk about it much. Hospitals are inundated but less than you would think given the lack of vaccinations and minimal Covid mitigation protocols. I had intended on being in Mogadishu before the end of September but it will not happen. My schedule has filled with meetings in Nairobi and upcoming travel will push my time in Somalia to October, assuming the security and Covid situation permits.

* * *

In the meantime, we host my mother-in-law and for four weeks. Tourism weaves its way in and out of my work schedule. It’s busy, but it works.

 

Idaho

Travel to Idaho no longer involves a welcome at the airport as it once did. After nearly 27 years as an expat, it makes sense that family wouldn’t drop what they’re doing and come to meet us (though it still happens in Indiana…). It’s generally: pick up the bags (alert the airline of our lost luggage, frequently), retrieve the rental car and off we go. Thankfully we were not at a hotel this time as we were during a few years when siblings’ houses were tighter on space.

This year did have a different feel, obviously, given the pandemic and the fact that it had been so long since we’d seen family. Hugs were a bit tighter and emotions seemed to run a bit deeper. We don’t take these interactions with family lightly even in normal times, less so now.

We began our time in Boise staying with my sister and brother-in-law. We took a few days to relax and hang out with the gang. We had a couple family gatherings, ran some errands and just enjoyed being there. 

 * * *

After a few days we headed north to McCall to enjoy the mountains for a week or so. I can never get enough time up there (and someday I’d like to rectify that) but for now I’ll take what I can get.

We spent some time on Payette Lake boating and beaching. The weather was warmer than normal but manageable. The was a considerable amount of smoke in the air, mostly from fires in other states. Some days were worse than others but I never felt that it was overbearing.

One afternoon we headed up the chairlift of the ski mountain to enjoy the views and the cool air. The mountains are my happy place and having been away for a long time, it meant a lot to me to just soak it in.

* * *

We then shifted a few miles to the west to the New Meadows area. It’s a short drive over the mountain and you come down into a beautiful valley (where our property is located). It’s less populated since there’s no lake and it doesn’t have the ski resort. Nonetheless, it’s an area that has already begun to grow and it’s inevitable that it will continue to do so.

After a weekend in the NM area, we headed off to what was supposed to be a backpack trip. One complicating factor was that the high fire risk (and corresponding stage 1 fire precautions) meant that campfires in the wild would not be allowed outside of designated campgrounds. The dilemma then was to choose between a backpack to a remote lake destination and skip the fire, or skip the backpacking and car camp at hopefully a lake location that allowed for a fire. Given the importance of campfires for the kids (and grown-ups), we opted on the latter. In the end it would work out pretty well.

There are dozens of alpine lakes to choose from in the McCall area. We’ve hiked to many of them and I’m looking to get to almost all of them at some point. We opted on a road that heads past the ski area and continues deep into the national forest. I’d never been on this particular road and given how much there is to see, it was as easy choice. It gave us multiple options for alpine lakes and I was surprised at the quality of the road. Given that we didn’t have an SUV, we needed to be on roads we could navigate in a car.

After a few miles, we stopped at a signpost which provided a list of the possible campgrounds. It seemed that the ones allowing campfires were those that had some sort of Forest Service presence (pay sites). One campground that I recognized from my reading was another half hour up the road and located on a lake, in addition to having a second lake a couple miles away farther up. I figured that if the road was navigable with our car, it would be worth the drive to check it out and see if there was an available campsite. So off we went.

In fact the road was wonderful, as mountain roads go. We passed a couple of lakes, or roads to other lakes, along the way. I was tracking all this in my mind in case we needed a plan B. Regardless of where we would end up, it was a beautiful day and a beautiful drive.

We finally arrived at a place call Hazard Lake and immediately the place looked busier than I expected (or hoped). But from what we could see through the trees, it looked gorgeous and the next thing would be to find a spot to camp. Eventually we homed in on a space with a small view of the lake and began to unload. I admit I was disappointed as I pulled the carefully packed backpacks from the car. I had spent a considerable amount of time putting them together, being vigilant to make sure they weren’t too heavy, that they had all the necessary gear and that their weight corresponded to the strength of the respective hiker. Alas, we were car camping. But the setting was beautiful and relatively quiet. It wasn’t plan A but I was happy to be in the woods.

We would only be there one night so we needed to get moving. Without setting up camp, we quickly pivoted to day packs and headed off on a 2-mile hike up to Upper Hazard Lake which was originally a candidate for our backpack trip. The plan B would still allow us to get our hike in and we wouldn’t need to do it with our heavy overnight packs.

The trail meandered through a meadow that was hit by a forest fire a few years prior but the foliage had had enough time to begin its comeback. In spite of several articles I read that talked about the ugliness that the burn had left behind, the wildfire area presented a rather remarkable beauty. Wildflowers were in full bloom and the grass was still green. The colors contrasted wonderfully with the charred trees. A new generation of saplings had become young trees and taking the place of their predecessors, many of which were taller than I. You could also see the contours of the surrounding hills in ways that you are unable to when laden with full grown pines.

The last stretch of the hike was steeper as we neared the upper lake. Soon we were through the trees and the blue, clear water appeared in front of us. It was a rather stunning setting, and one of the more beautiful lakes I have hiked to over the years. It was a shame we would not be pitching our tent alongside it.

We spent a few moments taking photos, had a snack and soaked it in before heading back down. As one might expect, the hike down took a fraction of the time as compared to the hike up. Soon after arriving at the campsite, we began to pitch the tent. I do love all the busyness that camping involves. I think it annoys some people but for me, the various little projects are an enjoyable part of the camping experience.

For dinner I cooked a few ribeye steaks on the grill and the girls followed up dinner with smores. The air cooled considerably but in the end it wasn’t as cold as we anticipated. We all slept moderately well. The next morning I fried up some bacon and eggs. Not sure if there’s anything better than coffee and bacon by a morning campfire.

Packing up was relatively easy since we were light on gear. We took our time driving down, stopping to have a look at a couple other lakes on the way. Our goal was to be in Boise by evening and then head to Kimberly to visit my parents the next day. It felt as though we were constantly on the move but at least for now, that’s what holidays are all about.

* * *

Traveling to the Magic Valley is always a pleasure for me. It’s sometimes hard to explain why. It’s a collection of rural communities with Twin Falls in the center. Other than Shoshone Falls and the Snake River Canyon, there aren’t a lot of fascinating landmarks. It’s a lot of farmland surrounded by desert. It also has a population that seems to becoming more conservative as I become less so. And though it has changed to some degree, generally speaking there is very little diversity. Most tend to live simple lives and there seems to be, generally speaking, a limited understanding of what is happening in the outside world. Many struggle to get by and don’t have the luxury of spending too much time worrying about world events beyond some Fox News sound bites. It’s in many ways the antithesis of the world I live in now and where I have spent most of my adult life. It’s possible that that’s part of the appeal. I can genuinely escape my current world and be in a place that provides few reminders of what I do and where I live. It’s quiet. Safe. Though I would be unable to enjoy it for anything longer than a few days, it successfully allows me to unwind.

We arrived in the afternoon. The main focus of the visit, of course, was to visit my parents but we also spend a considerable amount of time running errands, medical/dentist check-ups, etc.  

The plan was to greet my parents, hang out for a couple hours, have some tea and by early evening head to a local fair and rodeo. This has become sort of a tradition for us, an opportunity to partake of a true slice of Americana. I realize that such things are not for everyone but for us, particularly our children, these things are as foreign to them as a Masai dance would be to American kids.

A concern that grew the closer we came to the fairgrounds was the likelihood that few if any of the fair goers would be taking any sort of Covid precautions. Most would likely not be vaccinated. Such fears were realized as we approached the food area. Not a single mask in sight. No efforts whatsoever to provide distancing in seating areas. It was as if there was not pandemic and the area’s inundated emergency rooms did not exist. We clearly stood out with our masks but received no noticeable dirty looks or comments. It wasn’t until we were sitting at a table waiting for our fair food did we see our first mask, a Latina woman who gave us an approving nod as she and her family sat next to us.

We had time for a quick visit of the animal barns and dinner before heading into the rodeo. Unfortunately (and fortunately), we’d never seen the bleachers as packed as they were that evening. Happy to see the popularity of the event. Disappointed that we would be wedged in the middle of the packed seating.

The weather was perfect, the air cooling slightly as the sun set. The rodeo was actually exciting given that the girls understand the events better now that they’re a bit older.   

* * *

Soon we were back in Boise for the final leg of our long trip. We would have time for a few more fun activities but the emphasis would be on final preparations for our return home. We visited the Boise Art Museum. I can’t remember the last time that I was there but it’s been decades. It’s quite impressive and I was happy to see Boise continuing to advance the arts.

The one thing that was a bit weird was a visit to the zoo. Weird probably isn’t a good word but I can’t think of a better one. It was just different for us compared to most other visitors. While it was fun to hang out with family and see some of these rare animals, it was a bit off-putting for the girls to see animals they had seen in the wild for years for the first time in cages. I should say that the zoo does a very good job and I know they often have great partnerships with national parks around the world which support animal preservation. It’s also great to see the fascination in peoples’ eyes when then see these animals when they would otherwise not be able to. It’s not perfect but zoos are okay. But for our kids, I wouldn’t say it was traumatizing but it did seem to leave a mark on them.

Where the zoo thing did become an unquestionable disappointment was a sort of display near the giraffes labeled “African House”. It was a small, primitive shack with a cot on the inside. No context was provided and I wasn’t sure what the point of it was. Was it representing some point in history? In a specific country? Is it meant to represent the way all Africans live currently? No info. So if we were to reverse this situation and put a run-down American trailer house with a beat-up sofa on the porch on display in Kenya and label it as “North American House”, would Kenyans understand what it represented?  

Anyway, it was a good visit overall. Being there took me back to my college days when I would walk past the zoo every day on my way to class, given its location exactly between my house at the time and the university. It sits in a nice park near the city center though I fear that the green spaces are dwindling as more and more attractions continue to be added to its limited acreage.

* * *

The trip was about six weeks length and we spent time in five different states – our longest vacation to the US to date. It consisted of water parks, a cave, gymnasiums, boating, camping, trampoline parks, swimming pools, etc. It was a full and wonderful time with our families. And a much-needed rest. But now, back in Nairobi, the new school year beckons. I’m back at work and we’ve returned to our routines. Good to be back.

 

Nashville

My mother-in-law recently turned 80. She’s a young 80 who, within the past couple of years, became a widow. It’s been hard but I think she’s adjusted relatively well. Things like that do, however, have a tendency to change one’s perspective. She seems to have a greater appreciation for doing things while health allows. As such, she’s keen on ticking things off her bucket list. Initially she was thinking about some sort of family cruise. Of course the pandemic put the kibosh on any idea of traveling in a confined space with hundreds of strangers. I’ve never been on a cruise but I have an idea of what it’s about. I have taken massive ferries which contained a swimming pool, casino and restaurants which are technically not cruises but provide a similar confined space with people you may or may not choose to hang out with. Either way, this is certainly not the time.

Plan B ended up being Opryland, located just outside Nashville. I’ve driven across the US a couple times but I don’t recall ever traveling through Nashville. So this was new territory for me. Our trip went due south, beginning in southern Indiana, through Louisville, across Kentucky and down into Tennessee. The farther east you get in the US, the easier it is to travel through multiple states in a half day.

My brother-in-law had been there before with his family and that’s where the idea generated. I think a lot of it had to do with the huge water park that is attached to it. Having spent most of my adult life outside the US, I still find myself getting blown away by the size of this sort of American attraction. Though I should say that other countries are now not only imitating these things but in some cases surpassing them. It’s all quite fascinating though it’s not the sort of thing that is a draw for me generally speaking.

Opryland is a bit like a gigantic cruise ship that doesn’t go anywhere. Rated as the 29^th largest hotel in the world (almost 2,900 rooms), the facility is actually an accumulation of disparate buildings that have been absorbed beneath a single superstructure, much like a football stadium roof. The enclosure allows the whole place to be climate controlled and teeming with tropical plants. Rather than being hot and muggy as this part of the country is, certainly this time of year, it was actually cool and the temperature remains constant year-round.

The facility contains several overpriced restaurants, gift shops, a couple of swimming pools, a spa/gym, etc. It contains a waterway which winds through the various buildings and hosts a cheesy little tour boat. It’s adjacent to, and in many ways dwarfs, the famous Grand Ole Opry which is wedged between Opryland and a large shopping mall. I suppose I never really imagined what the setting of the Opry would be like but if I had, it wouldn’t have been the smallish, nondescript theater overtaken by a massive sea of commercialism. Possibly naïve of me. 

* * *

While the hotel obviously has lots of offer, I was more interested in Nashville itself, the heart of which was about 14 miles away according to Google. Out of reach for an early morning jog, we opted to devote an afternoon for lunch and a walk around the city.  It's not enough but I'll take what I can get. 

We started off with lunch at Puckett’s, a Tennessee institution which for me lived up to its billing. We had a variety of the area favorites, including fried catfish for me with a local beer. I don't think I could eat southern food often but it's great once in a while.

gotta love my daughter's expression

Afterwards we walked around the city. We were a relatively large group (12), so the walk was moderate in length and duration. Nonetheless, we were able to see quite a bit before returning to our hotel. It’s a city that deserves far more time but that will need to be for another trip, one that will hopefully include Memphis as well.

Downtown Presbyterian Church built in the mid-1800s

One thing we did get to visit was the state capitol. I like history and this state has a history I know little about. The grounds of the capitol are located on a high point and provide a decent view of the city. The capitol building itself is rather simple but nonetheless well done. One thing that stands out is the plethora of controversial statues in the Nashville area. I'm all for protecting history, including the aspects of history that aren't very flattering. I suppose it's the way these things are presented that matters. For example, statues of wretched humans should not be located in a place of honor. However, at the same time I don't suggest necessarily that we destroy art we don't agree with. The earlier blog post of the visit to the Minnesota state capitol is an example of preserving the art but framing it in such a way that we learn from the atrocities of the past.

Last May, in the aftermath of the George Floyd attack, several Tennessee statues were subjected to mobs that desecrated and/or removed them. Ideally you don't want mobs making decisions about how to manage public property. But with a very conservative state legislature, I guess these people (likely in the minority) figured that a good fit of rage was the swiftest way to achieve justice. One such target was the statue of Edward Carmack. After reading about the guy, it's rather stunning anyone thought he deserved a statue to begin with, let alone place it prominently in front of the capitol building. Carmack was a politician in the early 1900s who wrote editorials lambasting the writings of prominent Tennessee civil rights journalist Ida B. Wells. He never really accomplished anything and there was nothing really noteworthy about the guy except that he was fatally shot in 1908 by a political rival. Makes you wonder if the rival wasn't more fitting of commemoration.

Tennessee state capitol with base of Carmack statue in the center of the photo

 

* * *

The next day was more or less dedicated to the water park. To be honest, I have relatively little experience with such things. They existed when I was a kid but I don’t remember ever going to one and they were certainly not at the scale of what exists today. There’s no doubt that it was entertaining, particularly for the kids. It was a mix of indoor and outdoor attractions, many employing a combination of water, height and gravity making it inadvisable to have lunch in the hour or so prior to taking part.

You can’t swim with a Covid mask and I frequently wondered how an airborne virus does in these types of environments. The place was teeming with people of all ages in a red, heavily anti-vax state. Coming from a continent where about 1% of the population was vaccinated, the virus was constantly on the forefront of my mind, even though I was already fully vaccinated. I generally kept my distance from people, to the extent that I could.

One thing you get used to as a parent is making decisions that you probably wouldn’t make if you didn’t have kids. Opyland would fit into this category for me. For me, it's a bit like Dubai in the sense that it's a monstrous man-made attraction devoid of nature. But watching my girls embrace the whole experience made it all more than worthwhile.

Kiran attacking the wave