Finally, Traveling Again

As June was coming to an end, it meant two things. One was that the school term was about over. The other was that we would be going on holiday for the first time in a year and a half. I’m generally enthusiastic about going on leave but this time I was a bit more excited than normal. Other than a day here and there, I haven’t really taken any leave during that time period. I think most people have a sense when it’s time to take a break and I’ve been feeling like I’m past due.

Travel is obviously more complicated than it used to be. Other than getting our vaccinations and booking the tickets, we were able to schedule a “home delivery” Covid test. We would have the results in less than 12 hours. Pretty efficient and even less expensive than the tests I was getting at another clinic with ten times the hassle.

We all received our negative results (though the thought did cross my mind that one of us could end up being positive while being asymptomatic). We were considering the options if in the odd chance we had a positive result which in the end was unnecessary.

As departure day arrived, the girls were naturally quite giddy. They like traveling and this was a treat since it has been a while. We planned ample time to get to the airport due to massive road construction in Nairobi. The airport was certainly less busy than pre-Covid times but it was still a bustle with travelers. We suspected that there were many like us taking advantage of being vaccinated, school breaks and some new-ish travel freedom.

Though there are a number of new hoops to jump through to get fully through the gauntlet and to the gate, I suppose it could have been worse. After years of taking travel for granted, I guess it makes me more tolerant of the hassles.

There was a real as well as mental exhale as I settled into my seat on the plane. I was so happy to get to that point after about three canceled flights to the US. It’s likely that I won’t take travel for granted again.

Amsterdam airport, a familiar place

The girls need no instruction regarding what to do during travel. They’ve grown up with this lifestyle and jumped right back into it. Given that it was nearing midnight, I was debating sleeping and catching up on some movies. In the end I did neither. A full-length movie seemed too daunting for my attention span so I had “dinner”, powered through a few documentaries in between a few failed attempts to sleep.

The flight from Amsterdam to Minneapolis was slightly better in that it was a little over half full. The row behind us was empty so I staked my claim on them and proceeded to stretch out and drift off to sleep. It makes a huge difference to get at least some sleep during thirty hours of travel, particularly when those hours begin late in the day. There are times when I’ve powered through the entire experience without any sleep. It’s brutal and it makes one understand how sleep deprivation is an effective form of torture.

*  *  *

St. Paul

We arrived in Minneapolis in the afternoon of the next day (with eight hours added on due to time difference). I think all of us had had some sleep so we more alert than we normally are when we arrive. We would all be able to power through until our new time zone would allow us to go to bed. There’s always the issue of the late sunsets in the northern US summer (East Africa has little variation as to when the sun sets year round) but thankfully we were able to sufficiently darken the bedrooms at our friend Kathy’s house.

We saw Cathy on our last trip to the US a year and a half prior. It was winter, obviously, and we spent our time in the frigid temperatures enjoying the deep snow. While we expected hot and humid temperatures, we were in fact welcomed by perfect weather, even cool at times. As usual, we had a mix of new adventures and old. There is so much to enjoy in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area. I sound like a representative from their tourist bureau but there really is. None of it is the kind of thing that blows you away like a high alpine trek or tropical beaches. It’s just a lot of varied and pleasurable activities, particularly if you’re at least a moderately active person.

The girls often take part in some sort of cooking activity with Kathy. In winter it’s Christmas cookies. This time, taking advantage of a couple of hyperactive cherry trees, they took part in the preparation of a cobbler. We had some cherry trees when I was growing up. Rather than baking and doing something constructive, I remember some friends and I getting into some trouble after launching some cherries at passing cars from the roof of our garage. I’m often thankful I’m not parenting myself as a child. My kids seem far more mature than I was at the same age.

During my last trip to Mogadishu prior to leaving on holiday, I met with my HR coordinator. He had told me that he had family in Minnesota and that it would be great if I could meet up with them. I generally like to have rather firm lines between my work and private lives but he seemed insistent that this was important to him. He had an ulterior motive in that he wanted me to pick up some books from them given that books are not easy to obtain in Somalia. Wanting to support his reading habit, I accepted to meet his sister, brother-in-law and mother for a coffee in downtown St. Paul. It turned out to be an enjoyable hour talking about their adapting to life in the US and my experiences in Somalia. The brother-in-law had been in the US much longer and he was rather comfortable in English. The sister less so. The mother, having arrived more recently, almost not at all. The Somali community in Minnesota is well known and well established. I imagine that his mother can get by okay but it still must be tough to adjust to her life in the States. It’s certainly much safer and more predictable. But Somali culture is deep and rich and I understand why many of the diaspora have returned to the homeland, in spite of the fact that life is so much more challenging. It’s something that most Americans would not understand well given that their roots tend to be shallower. It’s a long history of language, culture, food, geography, poetry, etc. It’s not necessarily better, just different. Some believe that those who are less attached to a distinct culture have an easier time immersing themselves in other cultures. I honestly don’t know if that’s true but it could very well be. 

 

Another surprisingly interesting activity was a visit to the state capitol in St. Paul. I’m generally a fan of historical buildings so it might be less surprising that I would enjoy this one but even for those who are somewhat indifferent to such things, it’s still rather impressive. Construction on the building began in 1896 and it was restored between 2013 and 2017. It’s a mix of architectural styles, which can be off-putting, but for some reason it seems to work. 

One thing that was interesting was a room housing a couple of controversial paintings. As the renovations were ongoing, some of the artwork came under question – particularly some paintings depicting native Americans in historically incorrect collegial gatherings. Some even depict native Americans looking on admiring at their settler counterparts as their land is being taken away from them.

the cathedral from the capitol

It poses an interesting question as to what to do with this art. The fact that they are false depictions of history doesn’t necessarily they don’t have any historical value. The question is what to do with them. It seems to overlap with the debate regarding the controversial statues/monuments. Without wading into those waters, I would simply say that in this case I appreciate the fact that they were simply not relegated to the basement never to be seen again. They were, however, removed from the main halls and displayed in a meeting room alongside quotes of various individuals framing the controversy. In a way, it provides an opportunity to highlight the mistreatment of the native population in way that would be missed if they were warehoused.

 

Chinese pavilion in Phalen Park

*  *  *

The other highlight of the visit was an evening at a relatively small outdoor concert on the shores of a lake in Minneapolis. Generally when we are in the Twin Cities area, we spend most of our time on the St. Paul side and this gave us a chance to explore the other side. If you’re from there you probably sense more of a difference between the two. But as a casual observer, it seems pretty similar. But the area surrounding the lakes seems to be particularly rich.

We arrived well after the band had begun playing. A large crowd had gathered, some listening attentively and/or dancing, others seemingly just out to enjoy the experience of being out on a Friday evening. The weather was cool for this time of year but not uncomfortable. I have to admit, however, that it was surreal to be in a crowd. It had been a couple years since I’d been around so many people, almost none of them were masked (though I suspect that a high percentage were vaccinated given the feel of the crowd). To be honest, I’m not a big concert guy. It’s fun sometimes but I probably enjoy such things less than most. But given what has transpired over the past year and a half or so, I found myself embracing this hop back into something that resembled normality.

After three nights, our time in the Twin Cities was done. We bid farewell to Kathy and soon we were off to Louisville. Stop number two.

Mogadishu - The Mayor and Meeting with Staff

Since the pandemic began, I have obviously been unable to get to Somalia as much as I did beforehand. In some ways it has made my job easier (less travel; less time and energy spent in transit; more time to dedicate to some of the essential things that I do). In other ways, as for many people, it’s made my job more difficult. In our context, the impact of less face-to-face is more acute. It’s a culture where meeting people, shaking hands, having a cup of tea, solving problems in person, etc. are hardwired into the way society works. Video conversations with government officials and staff as a replacement aren’t easy, feeling sometimes that they are accepted begrudgingly. It could be that some are less comfortable with the technology but I suspect that many just find it annoying - a cheap substitute for the real thing. Elsewhere in the organization, particularly at higher levels, it's discussed as what the real thing has become. I suppose that's fine for what they do, but the closer you get to the tip of the spear, the more it doesn't work. We can continue to explore technology to enhance service delivery, but a Zoom call can't provide water or nutrition care to those in need.

I’m sure many, if not most, organizations have also experienced that over time, staff energy and engagement wanes. Activities lose momentum. People may also become more distracted by their private lives. Moreover, as staff are unable to meet and with no external visitors coming into the country, it can sap people’s motivation.

My HR Coordinator, one of the people organizing the visit, was telling me that the news that the director was coming, in and of itself generated some new energy. I suppose that’s a good thing but you sort of want the energy to come from other sources as well. I suppose we’ll take what we can get.

In 2019, about half of my work year was spent in Somalia. While it was tough spending so much time away from family, it was very beneficial in my job. Over that period I was able to strengthen my relationships with staff and government officials. I generally felt as though I gained a deeper understanding of what was happening politically as well as in key areas like security and economics. It’s a complex environment and without a significant investment, you’re likely not going to understand it well. Even after more than four and a half years of working in the context, there are still so many things I don’t understand. But I’m further along than I was.

Over the many trips back and forth between Mogadishu and Nairobi, I developed my routines. I was able to get to know people in immigration as well as those working security and at the cafes. I knew the people at the ticket counters, the flight attendants and some of the fellow travelers who were doing the same shuttle back and forth, though few were doing it as frequently as I was. It made it a more pleasant experience given how annoying air travel is (much more so now with the pandemic). It’s often tough getting up at 4:15am, hopping in a taxi and heading out into the dark, empty streets of Nairobi, knowing that you’re going to be away from family and bracing yourself for what is often tense and uncomfortable.

On this particular trip, I wasn't unable to slip back into my routines as I would have ordinarily. Saying Covid has changed things is becoming as trite as saying computers have changed things. It’s more than apparent to people by now and, sadly, some of it is likely here to stay. Many more steps are added to the already cumbersome travel experience. You now have the mandatory PCR test a couple days before departure. You need to add those results to your necessary travel documentation. You need a separate QR code which allows you to verify that your test is authentic. Many entrances require a fresh squirt of hand sanitizer. By the time I arrived at the guesthouse in Mogadishu I felt the need to wash off the thick gumminess that had built up from multiple applications of gooey sanitizer. Then there’s masks and distancing in the airport and masks on the plane. 

Upon arrival in Mogadishu, things are admittedly less uptight. Masks begin to lower and/or disappear completely. Distancing is clearly not a thing as people tend to queue up uncomfortably close. While in the queue at immigration, I found myself using my small rolling suitcase to create space between me and fellow passengers.

To be honest, it’s hard to know how to play it. At the time of this travel, I had a single dose of AstraZeneca which meant I was partially protected. But apparently I can still transmit the virus. You don’t want to be careless but there are some measures that I think are a bit over the top, particularly when you’re outside. Anyway, I tried to strike a balance throughout the trip.

* * *

The time in Mogadishu would be about five days. Day one was rather chill as there were no major meetings and I used the time for a couple smaller discussions and catching up on emails. The second day was much busier as we had our bi-weekly management meeting and then a series of other meetings, both face-to-face as well as online. Day three, however, was to be the heaviest day. My team had arranged a morning meeting with the mayor of Mogadishu and their regional health focal point. And then the full afternoon would be spent at a lunch and all-staff meeting. I had concerns about both: security for the first one and Covid for the second.

it rained while we were there, always a wonderful thing in Somalia

For the trip to the “city hall”, it’s in one of the more insecure parts of town in one of the more insecure cities in the world. I’ve been through there dozens of times and each time you sort of brace yourself and hope that you don’t end up on the wrong place at the wrong time. It has its share of bombed out buildings which adds a bit to the ambiance of the journey. It’s also one of the most fascinating and beautiful parts of the city. It’s basically the “old city” and it’s nestled up against the coast. Amazing architecture is everywhere and so are the gorgeous beaches. My dream is to someday be able to walk around and soak it all in. For now, it’s armored vehicle, bullet-proof glass and armed escorts.

this was apparently a cinema back in the day; hard to photograph through well-worn bullet-proof glass

I knew the previous mayor and had met him in the same office a couple of years ago. Sadly, he was killed by a suicide bomber where we were going to be meeting on this day. While that thought did cross my mind as we made our way up the stairs to his office, I didn’t dwell on it. I had too much other stuff on my mind. I suppose it’s a bit like athletes going into a game (thinking of rugby or American football). You know that there’s a chance of injury but you can’t let that take you away from your focus.

To my surprise there was almost no wait. We went directly into the meeting. I’m told the guy was a former warlord turned politician and now reports directly to the president. I honestly don’t know much about what others think of the guy but he seemed to me to be professional and knowledgeable. I very much liked his predecessor and felt that he had some pretty solid priorities in what is arguably the toughest mayor job in the world. In any case, I was pretty impressed with this guy with what little I know about him and I wish him the best.

Before long we were back out on the streets and heading back across the city to the hotel where the staff meeting would be. We do have a fairly large meeting room in our office but it can’t accommodate the full Mogadishu team, particularly with some healthy distancing. We have about 105 staff and I was told a little over 80 would be attending this event.

I had never been to this hotel/restaurant before. It opened not long ago and is located near the airport. Everything is quite new and nice. It seemed to have good security and it’s not too far from our office. We arrived much sooner than anticipated thanks to the efficiency of the previous meeting so we were able to settle in at a table in the courtyard, have some tea and have a small break. I often don’t think to take breaks during my day, or the opportunity simply doesn’t present itself, so this was quite pleasant. The weather, usually hot, was surprisingly comfortable.

Slowly everyone assembled in the meeting hall. It was a good facility for what we needed. I had nothing to do with the planning of the event but I felt the team did a good job. The main theme was to be on diversity, equality and inclusion, which we did cover, but invariably when you open the floor the conversation goes in all directions. It was good, though, and the best part was just being able to hang out with the team for a few hours. Given how limited our interaction has been for the past year plus, it was a nice boost.

* * *

The remainder of the week was spent in smaller, internal meetings, with the exception of a meeting with a health focal point from a region adjacent to Mogadishu where we have been considering working. Somalia has a large number of youngish, well-educated people and that could bode well for the country’s future, so long as the country keeps from unraveling. I was told that the country was in a similar situation before and then the twelve-year civil war happened. Anyway, this guy seemed pretty sharp and let’s hope he gets the resources and the stability to avoid losing his motivation.

On Thursday, thoughts began to turn towards travel and getting home to see my family. I flew the UN flight in both directions this time. Commercial travel between Somalia and Kenya was suspended due to a political spat (it has since re-opened) and the UN flight was the only option. When I first went to Somalia, it and the EU flight were all I was allowed to take. But I finally gained permission to venture out and take one of these small, commercial airlines. Turns out they were perfectly fine and safe. In fact, the commercial terminal, unlike the UN container-terminal, is spacious and nice. It has comfortable seating and serves much better food options, including good coffee and baklava. With the exception of the visit of our CEO in late 2018 (which needed additional security and special logistical support), I don’t think I’ve taken the UN flight from Nairobi since I started flying the commercial flights (though it's still often necessary for internal flights within Somalia).

Nonetheless, the UN flight did its job and I arrived safely. The suspension of commercial travel meant that the terminal in Nairobi was nearly empty. I sailed through security and immigration and soon I was in the taxi headed home. Hellacious traffic due to construction meant that I would be in the taxi for the next hour and a half but it was tolerable given that I could occupy my time doing work and the comforting thought that I would soon be home.

 

Vaccination

The infrequency of my time in Somalia is largely due to Covid. The virus has wreaked havoc in the country though it’s hard to get a read on the level of devastation. Data is sketchy given that most people are reluctant to be tested and often don't get treatment when sick. The real number of those who have been infected and/or died from the virus is unclear. There have been months of attempts at sensitizing the population on the dangers of the pandemic and the need to respect the prevention protocols, including by our own organization, but all this has generally been ignored, with the exception of some awkward elbow greetings by men. Those that do wear masks are often frowned at. In fact there’s really very little to stop the virus from having its way with the population. If, or when, the nasty variants begin making the rounds, things could get ugly.

So, as I have tried to at least protect myself and others with a vaccination, I have been steering clear of international travel. We haven’t wanted to cut the queue and have waited patiently for vaccines to begin pouring into the country. But as Western countries prioritized vaccinating their own citizens first (understandable), even to the point of hording (not understandable), the pour of vaccinations into the country has remained a small trickle.

* * *

Finally in mid-April, a window opened up for us to possibly get our first dose. While enjoying a Saturday morning bike ride in a nearby forest, we received a phone call from Greece (friend who previously lived in Nairobi) who said her husband was in Nairobi for work and was somehow getting a vaccine at a local gun club. They apparently had extra vaccines and were keen to have people come get vaccinated. To be honest, it sounded a bit dodgy but she assured us that it was legit but we needed to get there within the next two hours. With little hesitation, we thought it would be worth checking it out. 

Within about an hour we were there. The gun club/shooting range is located in a beautiful location outside Nairobi, an area where we’d never been. For now it’s green and lush but I’m told that it’s getting built up fast. The Ministry of Health was indeed there and very quickly we could ascertain that this was a legitimate vaccination location. As quickly as we were able to complete the paperwork, we were escorted to receive our shots. No wait at all. We were feeling pretty thankful for our friends who hooked us up.

I did see some media there but I was more focused on the injection I was about to receive. Sure enough, later that evening we were sent a message by our friend which included video from the local news showing us receiving our vaccinations alongside narration talking about “shooters and their families.” Though we had nothing to do with the club, the presentation obviously made it seem that way.

* * *

News about vaccinations in Kenya has changed by the week. Early on there were rumors of people accessing vaccinations that had been imported privately and at a significant price. Then the COVAX shipments came and the hope was that at least those on the front lines and most vulnerable would get vaccinated. There were rumors that government officials were prioritizing themselves and their families and that some of these vaccines were being provided to (i.e. sold to) non-prioritized people at a profit. Then more vaccine donations arrived in country and rumors circulated that this clinic or that one was providing vaccinations. As much as we wanted the prioritized people to get theirs first, we kept hearing of people refusing to be vaccinated. As time went by our own acquaintances were starting to get vaccinated. It was sort of stressful not knowing when there would be a legitimate opportunity, or if the opportunities we were hearing about were really happening and whether or not we would be eligible. We certainly didn’t want to leave an opportunity “on the table” if it were to be presented to us.

* * *

At the time we had the first dose, there was an assumption that the supply of vaccines would continue such that the second dose would not only happen but it would happen before we would leave on holiday in July. But as time went on, and as the Covid situation deteriorated in India, it became increasingly clear that the AstraZeneca they were exporting would need to be dedicated to their own population. Our ability to get our second dose was suddenly not looking good.

In conversation with my staff in Somalia, the idea was proposed to me to get my second AZ shot in Mogadishu. COVAX shipments had arrived in the country and people, including prioritized frontline healthcare workers (sadly even some of my staff) were turning out to be reluctant to be vaccinated. They said they could make it happen since we were supporting the vaccination campaign. I was intrigued by the idea, particularly if there was a chance that vaccines may go to waste, as we have seen in some other countries, but I wanted Priya to have the shot as well – and she would not be coming to Mogadishu.

As I was pondering this, I received an internal work communication stating that the UN was beginning a vaccination campaign for their staff, partners and dependents. Given that we are a partner, we would be eligible. That seemed like a better option and it would give my wife a chance to be vaccinated as well. The concern there would be timing. The UN tends to move at a glacial pace and we very much wanted to get the second shot before traveling in July.

* * *

Then in mid-June we heard that a couple of large hospitals were providing vaccinations. We had no way of verifying if this was true but we had some friends who had their second shot and they suggested we at least try. The next day, a Thursday, I had some meetings but I told Priya that we could take an Uber and I could try to take the calls as we went (assuming that we would be facing considerable waiting).

So off we went. A friend of ours joined us as we set out on a bit of a tour of health facilities in our attempt to get the illusive second dose. I took my first call while in the Uber and it continued throughout most of the adventure. I was basically tagging along as Priya and our friend led the way, inquiring of guards, health staff, etc. where we should go. To make a very long story short, we eventually came upon what appeared to be a nurse who took it upon herself to escort us on this little adventure. In fact, strangely, she didn’t have any idea where/if Covid vaccinations were taking place but like some sort of angel, she dropped whatever she was doing and eventually got us to where we needed to go. And then she just disappeared. There we were with a relatively short line of people and confirmation that we were indeed in the right place.

Within a half hour we were providing our IDs and getting nearer to the lady with the needles. In fact I received the text message “Congratulations on receiving your dose…” from the MoH before I even received my shot. Some things here are surprisingly efficient. Some things are surprisingly not. This was the former.

As I think about all the scrambling that we did to get vaccinated, and there are so many people who have easy access but refuse to consider not only themselves but society as a whole, I'm astounded by the scale of selfishness. 

"It is not what we do, but also what we do not do, for which we are accountable." - Molière (1622-1673)